Note.

Since the above was written, I have visited and examined the lands lying on the banks of the Ganges to the north-east of the river Barná. To my utter astonishantiment, though, I must confess, not contrary to my cipation, I found brick and stone debris scattered over the fields for, as far as I could conjecture, five miles or thereabouts. In many places, the rubbish lies thick upon the ground, choking up the soil; and, to a large extent, the deposit can be traced continuously. Here and there small bits of sculptured stone are visible; and, occasionally, where the broken bricks and stones are in very great abundance, they have been collected into ridges or small mounds. This is especially manifest at the termination of the deposit at a spot called Patharaká Siwán, where, in ancient times, doubtless stood a large fort, of which the foundations may even Although the fields beyond now be partially traced.

this point seem to be clear of rubbish, yet, further on, at Muskábád, at the distance of a mile, it recommences, and becomes as thick as in any other place. Perhaps this latter was the site of an outlying town.

But what are we to say of these remains? They lie immediately on the great river's bank, and never extend It is, I from it more than three quarters of a mile. think, very evident that, all the way from the mouth of the Barná, this bank has been, in the lapse of centuries, considerably cut away. Indeed, I believe that as much as a quarter of a mile may have fallen into the river. In all probability, therefore, the space covered by debris was much broader than it is at present. There

can be no question, however, that here a great city once stood. I have no hesitation in expressing my belief that, judging from the great scantiness of ancient structural remains in the present city of Benares,dating from even the Buddhist period, not to speak of the pre-Buddhist epoch, when, as we know from historical records, Benares was in existence, the original city of the pre-Buddhist and early Buddhist eras, for the most part, must have occupied this site. Beyond the northern extremity of the remains of the earlier city is a series of mounds, also covered with debris, tending in a north-westerly direction, where formerly forts or towns existed. I think it not unlikely that, in a far distant age, the connexion of the primitive city of Benares with Sárnáth was along the course of these mounds. Sárnáth is spoken of, in the Ceylon records, as though it may have been a city of itself; and there is no doubt that it is referred to, in ancient documents, as a part of Benares. Now, modern Benares is nearly half a mile to the south of the Barná; whereas Sárnáth is out in the country, about three miles to the north of that stream. If we suppose, however, that Benares, in its most remote period, was mainly on the north side of the Barná, likewise; and if such supposition is corroborated by extensive remains of ancient buildings, in the shape of brick and stone debris, stretching over several miles of country, as already shown, and terminating in mounds lying in the direction of Sárnáth; the proof approaches to demonstration, that, at that early epoch, a union, more or less intimate, existed between Sárnáth and Benares, as stated

by historical records. I had no opportunity to examine thoroughly the country lying between these remains and Sárnáth; but I feel satisfied that, at some point in these remains, a line of debris would be found connecting the two spots, with only a few breaks in its course, -the debris indicating the former existence of solid buildings, and being the broken relics of the same. This point must not be searched for at the southern extremity of the ancient city, but at the northern extremity; and, perhaps, the line of junction may be the line of the mounds just now referred to: but of this I am not able to speak positively.

If these observations respecting the site of the early city be correct, it must follow that the derivation of the word Benares, as the city lying between the Barná and the Así, is utterly absurd, as applied to the most ancient city. That it may be taken to explain the word, as denoting the city of modern times, even as far back as the Gupta dynasty, and, perhaps, somewhat further, is, historically, unobjectionable. But Banár-así has nothing whatever to do with the most ancient city of Benares, and, as applied to it, would be a ludicrous misnomer. It seems, indeed, probable that the Buddhists were the first people to occupy, to any extent, the southern side of the Barná; and such a notion is remarkably substantiated by the existence of various Buddhist remains there, as described in this chapter; but none of them, so far as I know, date from earlier than the Gupta period. It is, however, extremely likely that a small portion of the fragmentary remains found in this quarter belong to an epoch much anterior to this period; having

been, probably, attached to buildings existing there when Benares lay chiefly on the north side of the river Barná, and had suburbs or outlying edifices on its southern side. The Panchkosí road, or sacred boundary of modern Benares, regarded, by many natives, as of immense antiquity, is no older than the city which it encompasses, and must also be assigned to a comparatively recent date. Many pleasant and, perhaps, hallowed associations, connected, in the minds of multitudes, with Benares, as it now stands, will be found to possess but precarious foundation, when they discover that the Benares of today is by no means identical with the Benares of their remote forefathers.

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CHAPTER XXI.

SOURCE of the great wealth of Benares—Its chief articles of CommerceIts native Bankers-Its Poor.-Increased desire for Education.-The Government or Queen's College.-Monolith in the College Grounds. -The Normal School. The Church of England Mission.—The London Society's Mission.-The Baptist Society's Mission.- Native Schools of various classes.-The Benares Institute.-Public Buildings in the Suburbs.-Monument to Mr. Cherry.-Influential Native Gentlemen of Benares.

BENARES is a city of great wealth, yet not of great trade. Just as there are fashionable places of resort in more civilized countries, to which multitudes of persons are drawn at certain seasons of the year, so, in India, there are places that are annually visited by crowds of people, but with this difference, that they are of nearly all ranks and conditions, and their object is, mainly, of a religious character. Of this type is Benares. Myriads of Hindus come on pilgrimage, every year, to the sacred city, not a few of whom are merchants, landed proprietors, and princes. Some of these latter classes are casual visitors; others, however, possess residences of their own in the city, where trusty servants, and, perhaps, one or two members of their families, habitually dwell. Rajas and men of high social position, in all parts of India, pride themselves on having a house in Holy Káśí. For these reasons,