General Description of the Temples-Khailas-Fine Sculptures-"The Work of Gods or Devils ?"-Other Caves-A Heavenly Carpenter-A Disorderly House- hold-View from Hill-Saint's Tomb-Roza-Aurungzeeb's Tomb-His Charac- ter-Splendour and Power-Decay of the Mogul Empire-A Night in Para- dise-Indra Sabha-Sonorous Obelisks-The Doorma Lena-Architectural Ornaments of the Caves-Hindoo Religious Mendicants-Peasantry-Their CHAP. XXXII.-TO BOMBAY, Road to Dowlutabad-"The City of Riches"-A Stronghold-The "Master of the Plain"-Meet the Moon-Lady" again-Aurungabad-A Magician-Tomb of Aurungzeeb's Daughter-Another Revolt-Separation of our Forces-Toka- The Godaveri-Brahmuns-A Hungry God-Rope-and-boat Bridge-Imampoor -Ahmudnuggur-Meet our Friends-The Fort-The Kingdom of Ahmudnug. gur-The Largest Brass Cannon in the World-Duelling among Natives of India -Chand Beebee again-Death of Aurungzeeb-Bombay Kuhárs-Seroor-Kon- dapoora The River Kistna-Poonah-Dismiss our Kuhárs-Good-bye to Dhoo- Khandála-The Ghat Mountains-Cave Temples-The Railway-Obstacles to its Construction-Situation of Bombay-The Fort-Native Town-Residences of Europeans-Growth of Eastern Cities-Commercial Ability of Natives-Com- merce of Bombay and Calcutta-Variety of Nationalities represented in Bom- bay-Parsees-Their Costume, Religion, and Customs-Sir Jamsetjee Jeejeeb- hoy-Other Native Inhabitants-Hindooism in Bombay-Bóhoras and Portu- guese-Peculiarities of English-Degeneracy of all other Nations in the East- The Hoolee-Nach at the House of Juggurnathjee Sunkurset-Anglomania in India-Old Hindoo Costume-Cave Temple of Elephanta.... ....... 890 The "Ganges"-Our Fellow-passengers-The Crew-Life on the Steamer-Aden- Its Appearance-"Hell with the fires put out"-An Original Head-dress-Arabs -The Cantonments-The Fortifications-Importance of the City-Free Trade- A Foot-print of Civilization-The "Gate of Tears"-The Red Sea-Its Heat- Suez-Transit Across the Desert-Its Appearance-The Road-The Pyramids- The "City of Victory"-A Recommendation for Indian Travel........ CHAP. XXXV.-CLIMATE AND HISTORY OF INDIA. Size of the Country-Not Thickly Settled-Rainy Season-Cold Season--Hot Season -Unfit for a Residence of Europeans-Effect on their Health-Origin of the Present Inhabitants of India-The Hindoo Conquest-Remnants of the Abo- rigines-The Four Castes-Changes in Them-Arguments in Favour of this Hypothesis-Mahommedan Invasions-Tamerlane-Foundation of Mogul Em- pire by Babur-Akbur-Shah Jehan-Aurungzeeb-Decay of the Empire-- Revolts-Maharattas-Rajpoots-Death of Aurungzeeb-The Seekhs-Utter Disorganization-Nadur Shah's Invasion-Rise of the English-Conduct of the Company toward Conquered Princes-Annexation contrary to the Company's Policy-Character of Native Dynasties-Government of Dependent States.... 410 Abolition of Company's Trading Privileges-Board of Control-Government of India Nominally in the Hands of the Directors, but really under the Control of the Ministry-Civil Servants Appointed by Examination-Objections to this System -Unfitness of Natives for Government Employ-Government in India-District Magistrates-Salaries-Character of the Civil Service-Native Employees-Un- covenanted Service-Universal Lying-Instances from Real Life-Rules of Tes- timony-Civil Law of India-Mild Criminal Code-Thugs-Dukoitee-Religious Murderers and Robbers-Infanticide and other Crimes-Suttee and Human Sacrifices-Poisoners-Peculiarities of Crime in India-Thieves-Stealing a Sheet from under a Man Sleeping-Precautions-Disregard of Capital Punishment- Black Water-Blowing from Guns-Model Prisons-Caste in Jail-Smoking- Licentiousness-Discourteous Manners of English to Native Gentlemen-What is a Gentleman ?-Difficulties of Magistrates-Native Police-Their Corruption and Tyranny-Torture in India-Bribery and Corruption-The Remedy-Causes CHAP. XXXVII.-THE ARMY OF INDIA. Its Strength-Different Classes of Troops-English and Native Officers-Enlist- ment purely Voluntary-Pay-Madras Army-Bombay Army-Low-Caste Men-An Army of Gentlemen-Truckling to Caste-Tame Tigers-Salaries of CHAP. XXXVIII.-REVENUE AND WEALTH OF INDIA. Undeveloped Condition of the Resources of India-Cotton-Obstacles to Develop- ment-Small Agriculturalists s-Caste-Want of Capital among Agricultural Classes-Inferiority of Native Labour-Want of Roads-Railways-Ganges Canal -Want of European Capital and Energy-Obstacles to the Supply of this— Land-tax under Native Governments-Under the English-Lord Cornwallis's "Settlement"-The Madras System-The "Village System"-Its Advantages— To be made still more Liberal-Revenue and Expenses of the Indian Govern- ment-Low Taxation-India a Poor Country-Misapprehensions that have Indian Rebellion not a Matter of Surprise-Revolutions and Rebellions common un- der Native Governments-Rebellion did not originate among the People-Cha- racter of the old Native Governments-Nature of the English Conquest, and Character of their Rule-Evidence that the Rebellion was not a Movement of the People-The Rebellion was not in its Origin a Military Mutiny-The real Instigators were the Moosulman Princes-It was the dying Effort of Islamism- Character of the Mahommedan Population of India-Favourable Circumstances for the Rebel Leaders-Abortive Attempts of the Rebels to arouse the Mass of the Population-The Moosulman Character of the Movement evident in its Development-Atrocities-Noble Stand of the English-The Revolt in Oude- Sympathies of the Population of India-The Disaffected Classes-The probable ORTHOGRAPHY. In writing Indian names and words, I have thought best to adopt a uniform system of spelling, choosing the one in common use in India, rather than that system which has been adopted by the Asiatic Society, and which is, perhaps, neater, but has the disadvantage of giving to every vowel a sound different from its common English pronunciation. In the system which I have followed: The consonants are generally pronounced as in English. G is always hard. The letters in th and ph are pronounced separately, as in outhouse and uphill. N, in italics, represents the sound of the French nasal n. The acute accent does not change the sound of the vowel, but only indicates the syllable on which the stress of the voice is laid. The circumflex accent also does not change the sound of the vowel, and has only been used in a few instances to prevent long vowels from being carelessly pronounced short. In the case of certain proper names, I have varied from my system in order not to appear pedantic. Thus, I write Hoogly, not Hooglee; Oude, not Owd; Delhi, not Dihli, or Dillee; Aurungzeeb, not Owrungzeeb; Mahommedans, not Mohummudans. The latter spelling of each of these words would more truly represent its real pronunciation, but would appear uncouth. CHAPTER I. RIO DE JANEIRO. Cause of visiting Rio-Entrance of the Harbour-Repairing Vessels at Rio-PortersEuropean Appearance of the City-Architecture-Priests and Religion-Slaves→→→ Villas in the Country-Tejuca-Substantial Houses-Business-Politeness-OperaGovernment-Departure from Rio. WE entered the harbour of Rio de Janeiro on the 16th of January, 1856, having made Cape Frio the day before. The ship on which I was a passenger, was bound for Sydney, and thence for China; but a succession of those violent gales, which, in that winter, destroyed so much property and so many lives on our coast, had completed the work begun by a summer's sun in New York, and when about a fortnight out, we found the ship leaking badly, a state of things which finally compelled us to put into Rio and caulk our upper works. The entrance to Rio harbour surpassed the highest expectations which any of us had formed. The mouth is narrow and bordered by lofty walls of granite, rising steep and sheer for 1,500 or 2,000 feet, while farther back the Pâo d'Assucar, or "Sugar Loaf," towers into the air-the first of a series of sharply-defined, lofty, barren, and isolated peaks surrounding the harbour, and imparting a grandeur to the rich verdure of its immediate shores, which they would not otherwise possess. From the foot of these peaks, the land slopes gradually down to the water's edge, and is covered with beautiful villas, mostly in the Italian style, embowered in that luxuriant foliage and redundant vegetation which we are accustomed to associate with the idea of a tropical climate. There Passing the picturesque fort which guards the entrance to the bay, we sailed up three or four miles, and cast anchor among a crowd of vessels, all with their ensigns set. On our left, situated on a low flat of not more than two miles' breadth to the foot of the hills, lay the city of Rio. The ground on which it is built is all made, or, rather, the city is built upon piles, the locality having been formerly a marsh. It is, ot course, low and flat, and drainage is an impossibility, which accounts for its great unhealthiness at certain seasons. is usually a great deal of shipping in the harbour, as there is considerable trade, and this is a favourite place of repair for vessels which may have become dismasted or otherwise injured on the voyage to India, Australia, or the western coast of America. In this respect Rio has rather a bad reputation, as the repairing of damaged ships has become a regular branch of trade, and is remarkably well understood-many of the ship-carpenters finding themselves in a position to allow a handsome percentage to such ship-masters as will give them a job. I heard of one or two captains who had put in there with disabled vessels, and who were supplied with luxurious country seats, where they were kept in a continuous round of dissipation while their ships were refitting. Of course, they could not afterwards question the charges of those who had provided for them a "home and all its comforts" in a foreign land, and taken all the tedium of business off their hands. Most of the loading and discharging at Rio is done by lighters-there being but one wharf. The merchandise is conveyed from the lighters to the shore by negroes, who wade up to their middle in the water, carrying the goods on their heads. On shore, these fellows walk in a long procession, singing a monotonous song. They seem to prefer carrying burdens on their heads-transporting the very heaviest articles in this way. I have seen as many as sixteen men carrying a piano forte, locking step as they walked, and all joining in the song, which, in this case, was of real importance as enabling them to keep step. It is said that when the railway to Petropolis was being built, the negroes insisted on carrying the handbarrows, which were furnished to them, on their |