and honouring him with the appellation of the White Rose of England. His success is well known. She died 1503.

MARIA de St. PAULO; Comitissa Pembroc. Fund. Aula Pemb. A. D. 1343. J. Faber f. large 4to. mezz.

MARY COUNTESS OF PEMBROKE, with a view of Pembroke Hall. E. Harding, 1801.

MARY COUNTESS OF PEMBROKE, in Strutt's "Regal Antiquities," 55.

Mary of St. Paul was third wife to Aumer de Valence, earl of Pembroke, who was killed, at a tilting, on the day of his marriage. She soon after renounced the world, and devoted herself to works of piety and charity.

ELISABETHA DE CLARE, Comitissa de Ulster, &c. Aula Clarensis Fund. 1326.* Faber f. 1714; large 4to. mezz. E. Tabula in Aula Clarensi.

ELIZABETH DE CLARE, Countess of Ulster, with a view of Clare Hall. E. Harding, 1801. in Wilson's "Cambridge."

Elizabeth, third sister of Gilbert Earl of Clare, and wife of John de Burgh, lord of Connaught, in Ireland. She founded Clare Hall, in Cambridge, on the spot where University Hall had been built. This was burnt down, by a casual fire, sixteen years after its erection. She also endowed it with lands sufficient to maintain one master, ten fellows, and ten scholars.

CATHERINE, DUTCHESS OF NORFOLK, from a drawing by Vertue, taken from her monument.

Catherine, daughter of William Lord Molines, first wife of John Duke of Norfolk, who was killed at Bosworth, fighting on the side of Richard III. This lady lies buried in the south part of the church of Stoke, between the high altar and the choir, with this inscription at the feet of her effigy: "Under this stone is buried the body of

This is the date of the foundation of University Hall, by Richard Badew, chancellor of the university of Cambridge. See "Cantabrigia Depicta," p. 30.

the right honourable woman and ladie, some time wife unto the right high and mighty prince, Lord John Howard, duke of Norfolke, and mother unto the right honourable and puissant prince Thomas Howard, duke also of Norfolke; which lady departed this present life, Ann. Dom. 1451."

AGNES, DUTCHESS OF NORFOLK, from an original picture by Hans Baldung, 1513, in the collection of Dr. Farmer.

Agnes Tilney, second wife of Thomas Howard, second duke of Norfolk, was daughter of Hugh Tilney, and sister and heir of Sir Philip Tilney, of Boston, in the county of Lincoln. She was mother of Lord William Howard, ancestor of the extinct earls of Nottingham, and of the present Earl of Effingham.

ROSAMOND CLIFFORD, from an ancient picture, half sheet. Noble sc.

ROSAMOND CLIFFORD, from the same. sc. 8vo.

R. Cooper

Rosamond Clifford (commonly called Fair Rosamond), was daughter of Walter Lord Clifford, and mistress or concubine to King Henry II.; by whom she had two sons, William Longue-espè, or Long-sword, earl of Salisbury; and Geoffry Bishop of Lincoln, afterward archbishop of York. She is said to have died by poison in 1177, administered by Queen Eleanor through jealousy; but this is ably refuted by Carte, in his "History of England," vol. i. p. 652. who states, that through grief at the defection of her royal admirer on his marriage with Eleanor, she retired from the world, and became a nun at Godstow, where she died, and had a tomb erected to her memory, the remains of which are preserved to the present time.

MRS. JANE SHORE, from the original picture in Eaton College, by John Faber; large 4to, mezz. The print, which is scarce, is dated 1483, in MS.

JANE SHORE, from an original picture in the Provost's Lodge, at King's College, in Cambridge. Etched by the Rev. Mr. Michael Tyson, Fellow of C.C.C.C. 4to.

JANE SHORE, from the original at Dr. Peckard's, of Magd. Coll. Camb. originally in the possession of Dean Colet, in Harding's Shakspeare. F. Bartolozzi sc.

JANE SHORE, with naked breasts, in the same. F. Bartolozzi sc. 1790.

Jane Shore, mistress to Edward the Fourth, was the wife of a substantial citizen of London. She was a woman of great beauty, and of extraordinary accomplishments. "There was nothing in her body that you would have changed, unless you would have wished her somewhat higher."* But her courtly behaviour, facetious conversation, and ready wit, were more attractive than her person. It is recorded of her, that she could read and write; t qualifications very uncommon in that age. She employed all her interest with Edward in relieving the indigent, redressing wrongs, and rewarding merit. She met with cruel treatment after the death of that monarch, and lived in great poverty and distress to the eighteenth year of Henry VIII. The Dutchess of Montagu had a lock of her hair, which looked as if it had been powdered with gold dust.—There is a good deal of history concerning her in the "Reliques of ancient English Poetry," vol. ii. p. 248.

REMARKS ON DRESS.

The wearing of long hair during the reign of Edward the Confessor was so common, that Bishop Wulston not only boldly inveighed against the custom, and severely reproached the people for their effeminacy; but when any one bowed down their head to receive his blessing, before he gave it he cut off a lock of their hair with a little sharp knife that he carried about him; and commanded, by way of penance, that they should cut the rest of their hair in the same manner, denouncing dreadful judgments against such as disobeyed that injunction.

Bishop Wulston avoided all appearance of pride in his dress; and though very wealthy, he never used any furs finer than lamb's

Speed, p. 916, from Sir Thomas More's "Life of Rich. III."

+ Ibid. from Sir T. More.

skin for the lining of his garments. Being blamed for such needless humility by Geoffry Bishop of Constans, that "he ought to wear those of sable, of beaver, or of fox," he replied, "It may indeed be proper for you politicians, skilful in the affairs of this world, to adorn yourselves with the skins of such cunning animals; but for me, who am a plain man, and not subject to change my opinion, the skins of lambs are quite sufficient." Vide Strutt's "Habits," vol. i. P. 122.

In the time of Henry VI. the king's palace was surrounded by little barbers' shops, under the direction of the barber of the household, &c. There being then no carriages, and the streets being dirty, it is probable that those who went to court were first shaved and dressed in these shops.-A considerable fee was given to this barber for shaving every knight of the bath on his creation; forty shillings from every baron; 100 shillings from every earl; and ten pounds from every duke.

Stow says, that the ancient covering of men's heads was hoods; and that before the time of Henry VII. neither cap nor hat is spoken of. In this reign square bonnets came into use, and were worn by noblemen, gentlemen, citizens, and others. Henry VIII. wore a round flat cap of scarlet, or of velvet, as did the citizens, &c. &c.

APPENDIX

ΤΟ

THE FIRST ARTICLE.

FOREIGN PRINCES,

WHO WERE KNIGHTS OF THE GARTER, &c. SIGISMUNDUS, Romanorum rex; a large me- Born 1368. dallion. In Goltzius's "Series of the Emperors," done in clare obscure.

Sigismund, emperor of Germany, and king of Hungary and Bohemia, was installed knight of the garter at Windsor, 1416. He caused John Huss, and Jerome of Prague, in violation of a safe conduct which he had given them, to be burnt at the council of Constance. Ob.1437.

PHILIPPUS Burgund. Cogn. BONUS. C. Van Sichem sc. Whole length, in Grimestone's "History of the Netherlands ;" fol.

There is a better portrait of Philip, and of several other foreigners who have been knights of the garter, &c. in "Hadriani Barlandi Hollandia Comitum Historia et Icones," Lugd. Bat. 1584, fol. In "Meterani Historia Belgica" are also good portraits, which belong to this division, and the reign of Queen Elizabeth.

PHILIP Burgund, Bonus Dux, 4to. de Jode ex. PHILIP Burgund, Bonus Dux, fol. Soutman. J. Louys sc.

Ob. 1437.

Philip was elected knight of the garter, but never invested with Elect. R. the ensigns, on account of a quarrel betwixt him and Humphrey, Hen. V.