with each other, as is our custom, each shakes his own hands. In China no one carries a cane unless he is aged or very infirm. To see men carrying singing birds in cages is a common sight throughout China. The Chinese devote time and patience to the training of these pet birds, and teach them many curious tricks. An American removes his hat as a mark of respect, but a Chinaman keeps his head covered for the same purpose. To remove one's hat in the presence of a superior would be a serious breach of Chinese etiquette. There is nothing to correspond to our ideas of social life, since men and women are not expected to appear together in public. A Chinese gentleman would under no circumstances ride in the same carriage with his wife. Women never go shopping, but all articles they may wish to purchase are taken to their homes for their selection.

It is impossible for the Chinese to understand some of our ideas of pleasure, and many things we do must appear as strange to them as their customs do to us. It is related of the first Chinese minister to the United States, that, on attending a reception in Washington where dancing was a part of the entertainment, he watched the dancers for some time in astonishment, and then asked: "Why do they do all that hard work? Can they not afford to hire people to do it for them?

The relations between China and foreign nations have frequently been disturbed because of some blunder committed by the foreigners. The Chinese, especially those holding official positions, insist upon the observance of the most minute forms of ceremony, and are

careful not to pay higher honors to a foreign official than would be shown to a native official of the same rank.

An amusing illustration of the difficulties of this system occurred some years ago in Canton. The main entrance to government offices in China is provided with three doors: a central door, large and imposing, and on either side of this door a smaller one of ordinary dimensions. By the rules of ceremony in China, the central door is to be opened to admit only officials equal in rank to the Chinese official in charge of the office. The viceroy at Canton refused to admit the consuls of foreign nations through the central door to his office, and for several years they had no interviews with him. The consuls protested that, although of a rank below that of viceroy, it would be an insult to the dignity of the nations they represented if they entered by any other than the central door. After much discussion and correspondence, delaying the transaction of business for years, the viceroy finally yielded the point.

In the same manner much of the ceremony attending an audience with the emperor has been modified, until now the representatives of foreign governments are expected to make three profound bows only, as they approach His Imperial Majesty, instead of kneeling three times and knocking the forehead upon the floor nine times, which is the rule for Chinese officials and even princes of the royal line.

It would seem a very simple matter to accept a cup of tea from a Chinese acquaintance, but to do so properly requires a knowledge of these rigid forms of eti

quette. An interesting story is told of an American who called upon a Chinese official to secure permission to visit some place in that district. Of course it was important that no mistake in proper ceremony should be made, and the American was on the alert to make a good impression.

The Chinese official received him with formal politeness and ordered a servant to bring tea. Taking a cup in both hands the official presented it to his guest. Supposing it would be proper to drink the tea at once, the American did so, only to discover that a serious mistake had been made. The Chinese official would not even listen to the request he wished to make, and dismissed him without ceremony.

The American had committed two offenses in the eyes of his host, and by so doing had lost all claim upon his favor. In the first place, he should have stood before his host when receiving the cup of tea, and then should have waited until urged to drink it. He should have known, too, that this would be the signal for his departure, and that the official considered the interview at an end.

Like everything else in China, the dress of every official is regulated by law. On a certain day there appears in the Peking Gazette a simple announcement something like this: "The emperor has put on his summer hat." This is all; but now throughout the empire comes a change. Every official must lay aside. his fur-lined robes and put on his summer clothing. To be sure the climate of Peking differs very much from that of Canton, but this does not change the law.

There are many other curious laws regulating the most minute details of daily life. It is believed that many of these customs will be changed, as railroads make progress through China, and the Chinese become more and more familiar with the ways of other peoples.

CHAPTER XV.

FROM CANTON TO PEKING.

We

ON leaving Canton it would be very interesting to make the overland journey to Peking, which is in the northeastern portion of the empire. We should learn about the life of the country people and see customs which have been common among them for ages. should find opium growing quite extensively and occupying land capable of producing food for the thousands now so scantily fed. In the north we should find millet, Indian corn, and beans taking the place of rice.

In many parts of the country roses, peonies, hydrangeas, azaleas, and hundreds of other flowers grow in great luxuriance.

Traveling by land in China is difficult, owing to the absence of inns and the intense hatred of foreigners. We will therefore return to Shanghai and journey by water to the great cities of the north.

Sailing up the Pei-Ho a distance of thirty miles from its mouth, we arrive at the city of Tientsin.

Tientsin, the "Heavenly Ferry," is the port of Pe

king. Like the other cities in the Great Plain, the country surrounding Tientsin is very low and is often flooded.

In many respects it resembles Shanghai, especially in the contrast between the well-kept foreign settlement and the Chinese city. While Tientsin is not so important a port as Shanghai, many ships enter and leave here. every year. As it is the only port for a vast region in the interior of China, an immense trade is carried on here.

To foreigners Tientsin is best known as the residence of Li Hung Chang, for many years the most distinguished of Chinese officials. His name has become known throughout the civilized world as that of a great statesman; and he is, perhaps, the only one among all the millions of Chinamen whose name would be recognized in any public assembly.

Whatever progress has been made in China during recent years is largely due to this great viceroy. Through his influence, telegraph lines connect the principal cities, and railroads are being built in different directions through the empire.

When the first telegraph line between Tientsin and Peking was being repeatedly pulled down by the infuriated natives, Li Hung Chang was told that these acts were committed by the spirits of the earth and water (called Fengshui by the Chinese), who were disturbed by this new and hateful invention.

Li Hung Chang replied that if he caught one of these "spirits" interfering with the telegraph line it would be a serious matter for him! After this hint the

line was not tampered with again.