atmosphere is entirely changed. We see almost no bearded Mohammedans and few whose light complexions indicate Aryan blood. These people are Dravidians by race. They were driven south by the Aryan invaders, and here they founded over fifteen hundred years ago a civilization which has ever since been growing richer in literature and art. I see that your eye is attracted by that curious great cannon which you see in a bastion of the fort. It is named Raja Gopala and is twenty-four and a half feet long with a bore of two and a half feet. You could easily crawl into it. In many places in India you will find big guns like this in the ancient forts. The old Indian Rajahs were very fond of them. Do you remember that Kim was sitting on one in Lahore when he first met his Lama? A massive tower covered with images of gods and demons rises two hundred feet above us and soon demands our attention. It is clearly a temple, yet we have seen no such mighty temple building even in holy Benares. As we walk into the enclosure another great tower appears and we find ourselves in the midst of a bewildering array of cloisters and chapels covering a very wide area, all part of the same temple. The guide tells us that part of this great temple dates from the fourth century A. D.-that is from the time of the Roman Empire. Other portions were built a little after the reign of William the Conqueror. The great towers which completed the temple were added at about the time of Columbus. Here and there in the enclosure we see sleek Brahman priests who are keenly watching to be sure that we do not go where we are not allowed and so desecrate the temple. But they are even more eagerly watching the offerings of the worshippers. In spite of the fact that they are few in number in South India, the Brahmans seem to dominate things here in an even more imperious way than they do in the North. As we ramble about the town, we cannot get away from that great temple. It overshadows the whole city. It is so in many cities of the South. Hinduism seems to be absolutely in control here. Yet in this very country Christianity has won greater victories than anywhere else in India. Right before us is one visible reason for this. It is the church of Christian Frederick Schwartz and was erected by him in 1777. He was one of India's greatest early missionaries and was trusted by every class of people. At one time he acted as ambassador of the British to Hyder Ali of Mysore and made so great an impression on that fierce ruler that he invited him to stay in his country and preach Christianity. But Schwartz declined because he felt that he was most needed in Tanjore. The Rajah of Tanjore asked him to do many difficult public services, every one of which Schwartz performed with great ability. Finally, the Rajah made him guardian of Sarabojee, his son and heir. For a time this humble missionary, whose main interest was in his growing congregations of Christians, was the most important man in the government of a rich and populous native state. The young Rajah whose guardian he had been, loved him as a father, and when Schwartz died, erected to his memory the marble monument which we see in the church. He also composed the quaint inscription which we shall read: Firm wast thou, humble and wise, Our week of sightseeing is over, and we must be getting back to Bombay for a Sunday of rest. We shall pass, swift as thought, over the high mountains of South India, over her great upland plateau, over the "Western Ghats" which rise near India's western coast, and down again into the mission compound in Bombay, eight hundred miles away. As we sit back in our comfortable veranda chairs, we shall all be going over in imagination the many great sights which we have seen. There will also come pouring into the minds of each of us little bits of native life and color which perhaps we alone have noticed. We have seen something of the wonders of nature and art in India, something of her variety of life, something of the greatness of her past, something of her human in terest. After a Sunday of worship with the progressive Indian church and of quiet rest in our bungalows, you will be eager to go on to find the answers to some of the questions about India that fairly bristle in your mind and to become better acquainted with her interesting people. It may take years-it may take a century-to fit India for self-government, but it is a thing worth doing and a thing that may be done. It is a distinct and intelligible Indian policy for England to pursue a way for both countries out of the embarrassments of their twisted destinies. Then set it before you. Believe in it. Hope for it. Work up to it in all your public acts and votes and conversations with your fellow-men. And ever remember that there is but one way by which it can be reached. . . . Till India is leavened with Christianity, she will be unfit for freedom. When India is leavened with Christianity, she will be unfit for any form of slavery, however mild. England may then leave her... freely, frankly, gladly, proudly leave the stately daughter she has reared, to walk the future with a free imperial step.-Sir Herbert Edwardes, K.C.B., K.C.S.I., Hero of the Indian Mutiny ... II The Meeting Ground of East and West WE are on an athletic field in the beautiful inland city of Poona in western India. A crowd of excited boys and men is watching a game of atia-patia—a popular team game that is played, under different names, over most of India. This particular contest is between two of Poona's high school teams. The players are barefooted. They wear but little clothing, and their light brown bodies are lithe and graceful. By their color and general appearance we can easily see that almost all of them are Brahmans, the proud descendants of India's Aryan conquerors. Ten players are lined up at one end of the long, narrow field. The opposing team is scattered down the field, each player guarding a cross line. You can picture what the field is like by thinking of a shortened football gridiron squeezed together until its side lines are six yards apart, a third line running down the center. The signal to start is given, and the attacking team rushes forward into the upper squares. One fine looking fellow slips through the first opponents and comes bounding down toward the lower end of the field, stopping short before an alert antagonist. Now watch the contest. Back and forth he runs, seeking an opening; but the guardian of the square is equally quick and bars the way. Suddenly, like a flash, the runner flings himself almost flat on the ground, but forward and outward so that only one foot remains inside the side line, thus keeping him technically within bounds. Again, |