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I had been passing the summer months in the south of France, and had made up my mind to get a glimpse of Spain from the slopes of the Pyrenees. Fortunately chance threw into my way an old friend, who had been wandering about "promiscuous-like,' and was only too glad to have some settled object in view. We accordingly found our selves one fine evening making inquiries for guides in the vicinity of Vic d'Essos, and having succeeded in making a satisfactory bargain with a stout-limbed peasant, named Ruffier, we retired early to rest to prepare ourselves for the morrow's fatigues, We were awoke betimes by our mountain chaperon, who had everything in readiness for our departure, and, making a hasty toilet, we mounted the mules provided, and fairly commenced the passage of the Pyrenees. Before us rose the lofty peaks, that had not yet divested themselves of their misty nightcaps, and in front of us was a winding path about six feet wide, plentifully besprinkled with boulders from the size of a bullet to

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lay along the mountain-side, following the course of the little turbulent stream of Vic d'Essos, which here and there resolved itself into a cataract, taking a plunge into some leafy hollow. For a time we got on famously, and I began to think that, after all, there was not so much in mountain tra velling as some people would have us suppose. But soon my growing confidence received a check; before us stood a hut at the foot of a rock, the summit of which appeared to me about as accessible as the top of the Monument, to be got at from the outside. Here we were to make our first halt, and here we were to leave behind us the mules that did not enjoy the faculty which allows flies to walk up the wall of a room. We took this opportunity to examine what we had in our havresacks, and soon a portion of their contents was transferred to the yawning regions beneath our waistcoats. have since had my doubts as to the wisdom of this proceeding, as I apprehend that, in climbing, it is advisable to be as light and unencumbered as possible. It seemed to me that the plentiful meal I had just partaken of, would have been much better on Ruffier's

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back than in the place where I had bestowed of pinnacles, and to walk along a ridge six it. Here it was, then, that we commenced the inches in breadth. However, we had gone veritable work of ascent, and, I freely too far to think of turning back, and with a acknowledge, it was not without some mis- deep sigh I girded up my loins, and recomgiving that glanced upwards at the first menced a labour to which a fortnight on specimen of what we were to contend the treadmill is as nothing. At length we against. Ruffier carried the larder, and attained the summit, and then came the certain sundries we could not well do with- question of descent to the land of the out, while my friend, who lovingly cuddled Cid." Even my friend was visibly ima skin of wine, stalked onwards in a manner pressed with the scene that lay before us, that would have done honour to Rob Roy An almost perpendicular declivity, broken himself; as for me, I found it sufficient to up with huge masses of stone, was the sole carry myself and my iron-pointed staff. path that was open to us. How on earth Occasionally I had to assist my onward pro- were we to get down, immediately suggested gress with two members that are not usually itself to my not over-confident mind; but called into operation for the purposes of before I could arrive at a conclusion on this locomotion, and place myself in attitudes point, my companions had valiantly comthat would not be considered graceful in a menced the task. Nothing was left but to metropolitan thoroughfare. Frequently I follow in their wake, and this I did in would turn round and measure the distance the most cautious fashion, though I occagained from the plains below, and, as it sionally gained an impetus which would became greater, I experienced a certain have introduced me in rather a sudden manamount of satisfaction, which, alas, was ner to Spain, had I not come into collision considerably tempered, when I turned to the every now and then with a mass of rock wall above me, the summit of which ap- that acted as a buffer. The further we got peared as far off as ever. At last, after an down, the more steep did the mountain beimmense display of gymnastics, it was come, and, about half-way, there were not reached, and we found ourse ves on a pla- even any stones against which to plant the teau with, merciful powers! a mountain feet. The slightest slip would have precibefore us higher than the one we had just pitated us into a frightful chasm. I was now escaladed. However, there was no alterna- compelled to rely entirely upon the guide, tive but to advance boldly to the assault, who succeeded, by means of various strataand I went to work with a courage which gems, in depositing me in a place of safety. was mainly supported with the idea that it We passed that night in a mountain-cabin, was the last serious obstacle that separated and the next morning descended into Taus from Spain. More straining of muscles, bascan, the first Spanish village, and glad more crawling on hands and knees, with an enough I was to get there. While resting occasional clutch at some friendly tuft of ourselves after the fatigues we had gone grass-and hurrah! we're there, and find through, a melancholy accident happened ourselves on a platform, similar in every in the immediate neighbourhood. On some respect to the one we had lately left, with of the small plateaux in the mountains, the exception that, perhaps, the rocky pile there grows most luxuriant crops of grass, that rose in front was somewhat more ele- and men are found who, for the sake of the vated than the two former. That rascal small gain to be derived from it as forage, Ruffier had not prepared me for this any-risk their lives to obtain it. Many of these thing but pleasing surprise, and I threw myself to the ground in utter despair, wishing myself back in the vineyards of southern France. I will not attempt an explanation of how I surmounted this fresh difficulty, which the guide, in answer to my queries as to how many more of these gentle undulations stood in our way, assured me was the last. My fellow-tourist appeared to treat the thing in the most philosophic manner, and I verily believe, from the way he went to work, he would have walked over Mont Blanc as though it had been Highgate Hill. For my part, I am not ashamed to own that nature has not provided me with those talents which enable the goat to stand upon the sharpest

plateaux have a considerable slope towards the edge, making it exceedingly dangerous for the mower, should his foot slip. A party of three left the village the day after our arrival, to cut the grass in one of these positions; and while gathering it up, the footing of one of them gave way, who dragged the rest with him into a fearful chasm, and this in sight of their wives, who were waiting the return of their husbands within view of the disaster.

Affectation in any part of our carriage, is lighting up a candle to our defects, and never fails to make us be taken notice of, either as wanting sense or as wanting sincerity.

a shirt, drawers, embroidered handkerchiefs, an ornamented waistband, and a tobacco case.

copper plate, to his affianced, consisting of A MARRIAGE IN TARTARY. figs, preserved dates, gum, sticks of cloves, WHEN a marriage is resolved upon and a quantity of sequins intended to ornaamongst the Tartars, the proposal is often ment the head-dress. The parents of the made several years beforehand. The friends maiden acknowledge this attention by reof the young man commence by addressing turning the dish laden with a large pie, themselves to the intimate connections of called baclav, to the kneading of which they the maiden who is the object of his affec-attach great importance. They send, also, tions, and these undertake to ascertain her approval or dislike to the union. If a favourable opinion is expressed, a negociation ensues with the mother, and the same propositions are afterwards submitted to the father of the maiden. The friends to whom the management of these delicate affairs are entrusted, are named Koudas. Should the parents consent to the marriage, these persons are received with great hospitality, and are invited to a splendid repast; but if the demand is not approved, they are sent back, after a few words of cold politeness, with empty stomachs.

It is worthy of remark, that when the affianced has a brother older than herself, he becomes the most important individual during the time the arrangements are being made. A simple refusal on his part suffices to overthrow all the projects for the proposed marriage; and, if by chance, the union takes place in opposition to his will, it is in vain to offer him propitiatory presents, and equally useless to engage him in the ceremonies usually observed on these occasions. He assumes the air of a man who has been grievously insulted, and who conceives he has ample reason to be revenged.

The friends of the betrothed stipulate the number, quality, and value of the presents to be sent to the bride, and which consist of silver, flax, gold and silver thread, silks, and embroidery. They also decide upon the length of the gold or silver waistband; the number of bracelets, of tchimbers, or large veils that entirely cover the person; of the marama, long muslin robes, the ends of which are embroidered in gold; of the shawls of Constantinople: the quantity of cloth, &c. With regard to the copper utensils, the bridegroom must likewise forward the quantity agreed upon, or, if he prefers, their value in money.

Several travellers have erred in saying that the Tartars sell their daughters; for all these presents, the amount of which is determined upon before their marriage, are intended to commence the housekeeping of young couple.

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As soon as these different arrangements are effected, the bridegroom is compelled to forward a present of fruit, upon a large

When the bridegroom is rich, he forwards, at intervals, several presents, in addition to those which have been rigorously stipulated beforehand. After having fulfilled all the promises he had engaged to perform, he sends his friends again to the parents of his affianced, to ascertain the day on which the marriage can be celebrated. The time is then calculated in which the various preparations can be effected, and the celebration is appointed.

As soon as this moment arrives, the bridegroom again dispatches his confidential messengers, to ascertain if the dress of the bride is in readiness. This being made known, he ought to forward an ox, several sheep, a quantity of honey and meal, some butter for the repast, and rose water for the guests; besides hired oxen and horses to bring them from their several habitations in the neighbouring villages.

After this the nuptial ceremonies begin at the houses of the parents of the bride and bridegroom.

FIRST DAY OF THE CELEBRATION.

It would be necessary to have the gift of Tartar ears to approach, with any enjoyment, the scene of festivity; the music being of the most unearthly description, excessively noisy and sharp, and by no means improved by the drums which are brought into active requisition on these occasions. The cries of the youthful population of the neighbourhood add to the con fusion of sounds, which is fearful in the extreme.

On entering the apartments, they will be found filled with females, the youngest of whom, and still unmarried, are dressed in the greatest simplicity, and rely on nature alone for any attention that may be bestowed upon them. The married females, on the contrary, dye the eyebrows black, and by means of this equivocal embellishment, give themselves a severe expression. Their faces are painted, and some have a habit of pasting on their cheeks small pieces of gilt paper, representing stars and crosses; but

this applies only to those who are under thirty years of age. We may remark here, that whatever may be the difference of manners, the innate feeling of propriety prevails throughout the country. Thus, the cosmetics used by some married females, are prohibited to girls whose fresh cheeks would revolt at the infliction. The aged, also, do not employ this assistance to conceal the wrinkles of time; and, as a mark of their good sense, they wear small tresses, which fall over the forehead, and, in some degree, conceal their features.

replies to the questions of his companions. He seems to be contemplating in sadness the trials of the new condition before him. During this time, his friends, tired, probably with his want of sociability, dance together to the sound of Tartar music, eating and drinking, and even intoxicating themselves with a detestable drink called bousa, a disgusting sort of brandy.

In all the enjoyments of the Tartar youth, there is always a president appointed, whose office it is to prevent quarrels arising, and promote a good understanding on these occasions. A fit of drinking, from time to time, is not considered with great severity among young men; but, once married, and indulging in this vice, a Tartar would soon be despised, and reduced to misery.

THE SECOND DAY.

The decoration of the apartments is very simple. It consists of an enormous mass of light mattresses, and coffers of cypress wood, covered with green varnish, or in walnutwood, with ornaments in mother-o'-pearl. There are also small stools; and handkerchiefs, embroidered in gold and silver, hang suspended from the walls. The copThe same society remains as on the preper and tinned utensils, cups, looking-vious day, and amuse themselves in a similar glasses, &c., are arranged in order on manner. The bride is conducted to the bath, shelves. In one of the corners of the prin- in a covered chariot, preceded by musicians. cipal apartments a large curtain is hanging, While there, her hair and nails are dyed, behind which is seated the bride, who is and on her return to the house she is again concealed from the sight of the parents of concealed behind the curtain. Her headher future husband. Her friends come at dress is then arranged by young females, intervals to bear her company, and then en- who are closely encircled by their compangage in the pleasures of the dance. The old ions. The hair, which before was parted in women chatter, children cry, and make the centre, in sign of her maiden condition, every possible noise, and in all the assem- is now arranged in the manner worn by bled company one person alone retains her married women, part of the forehead being self-possession, and this is the principal in- covered with it. This kind of mysterious dividual charged with the negociation of habit is held in veneration by the Tartars. the marriage. Upon her devolves the ma- During the time occupied in the toilette, the nagement of everything connected with the bride and her attendants weep, while the reception of the visitors. It is she who finds young girls around sing wedding songs. them places of repose on the large cushions strewed about, and offers them refreshments, after which she pours rose-water over their heads and hands. In return for these attentions, they make her presents, and include the musicians in their bounty.

Three times in the day-that is to say, every time that refreshments are handed round-the bridegroom advances and salutes the company. His dress is generally very simple, because the custom is to wear the most precious robes in the house of the bride only.

Meanwhile, the bridegroom is attired at his own house by his friends, who accompany the ceremony with music customary on these occasions. While these sounds are swelling around him, and every one adds his share to the chorus, the bridegroom preserves the same air of imperturbable gravity he has observed from the first; and the more pensive and silent he is, so his after conduct is anticipated by the company present.

THE THIRD DAY.

The parents of the bride send to the father The maiden in whose honour these cere- of the bridegroom a young man about twenty monies are observed, sits in her corner, years old, clad in a scarlet suit, and who is enveloped in a loose robe, weeping and commissioned to arrange the sum of money sighing, while two females beside her sing the husband is to pay his wife in case she is plaintive melodies. During the time that divorced, and also to her parents if she dies these customs are held in the house of the without issue. This amount is generally bride, her future husband is undergoing a considerable, and payment is exacted with somewhat similar ceremony in his father's great rigour; but if after marriage, the wife house. Enclosed in his chamber with a few would prevent the total ruin of her husband, friends, he speaks but rarely, and scarcely she is privileged to liberate him partially

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