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to settle somebody with a bullet, for causing all this row. Indeed, I had grasped my pistols, and having looked to the rest of the defensive weapons, was all ready for a something or somebody, when my absent companion entered the court-yard, with our guide, both singing merrily, though tired and hungry.

By dint of thumps, promises, and some little abuse, I managed to get the muleteers thoroughly awake, a good fire blazing, and an excellent "Irish stew" smoking in the centre of the room, for the wearied pair; but it must be chronicled, to the shame of the aroused sleepers, that they gradually joined the party, and partook of the supper so largely, that we were obliged to have another supply, and a bowl of punch, just to keep the stew in subjection.

The merry songs and anecdotes finished, the ashes knocked from the oft-kindled pipes, and many sighing for the celestial dreaminess which characterizes Eastern slumbers, we once more courted Somnus; but it was fated that my portion should not be sleep; for the barking dogs, the noisy muezzeen chanting the call to prayer from a neighbouring minaret, and anxiety about my horse, prevented me; therefore I resolved to pay a visit to the ruins.

"All round was still and calm; the noon of night,

Was fast approaching; up the unclouded sky
The glorious Moon pursued her path of night,
And shed her silvery splendour far and nigh;
No sound save of the night-wind's gentlest
sigh

Could reach the ear; and that so softly blew
It scarcely stirred, in sweeping lightly by
The acacia's airy foliage."

The sober-tinted plain, the massive shadows thrown by huge blocks that lay strewn about, contrasting forcibly with the beams of the moon, which, like bars of molten silver, gleamed on the dewy slopes, and richly carved masses that Nature had thrown from their original position during one of her convulsions; the imposing grandeur of the remnant colonnade, with its six columns and epystylia, elaborately ornamented with richly carved work; the circling birds, and the whole ruin softened by the moonlight's tender gloom, awakened thoughts and

feelings that time can never efface, and which

"To me were dearer than the dazzling sheen, Of noon's effulgent hour, or morning's spark_ ling mien."

Long, long did I sit and think o'er the departed fame of this neglected pile, which was slowly and silently mouldering; where Art is not appreciated, and Science unknown.

Where is the architect who planned and superintended the erection of these beautiful structures, which remind us that even the greatest of man's conceptions is only transitory? Where are the warriors that once went forth to battle, so full of hope, and returned, crowned with fame? Where are the minstrels that sounded their praise and prowess in their own and distant lands? Where are the lines of captives, and spoils that graced their triumphal entry; the beauty that welcomed them; the priests that blessed them? Do they still live in the annals of fame and history, although dead to the world?

"No-sunk in cold oblivion's gloom

They lie-their very names unknown.
The mouldering marble tells their doom:
They lived-Time fled-and they are gone.”

The fair smile of morning disturbed me in my reverie, and as the fast scattering mists revealed the snow-capped tops of Lebanon and the surrounding beauties, the glorious orb the monarch of the pile-came forth in all his magnificence to greet his ruined city.

The dark mantle of night gave place to the bright one of day. The effulgent splendours and reviving radiance of the sun spread everywhere. The purple clouds were fringed with fluid gold; and some, with ruby-coloured edges, were wafted gently away, or seemed to melt into limpid air. The rocks, the hills, the bubbling brook, the moss-clad banks, the ruined temple, and all Nature drank in his purest rays, and were tinged with roseate lustre by his returning beams.

Long dark clouds of every form were impelled by the gentle breezes, disclosing golden vistas, and fleecy masses, that flit through the air, while Nature's gentle music is poured forth from every nook

pour

and secret corner of the surrounding
scene, and-
"The bee his concert keeps from flower to flower,
As forth he sallies on his honied way."
The sun's bright rays and genial warmth
enliven Nature; innumerable lizards
forth from the chinks of giant stones, and
beneath prostrate columns, or broken
architrave, covering the ground and the
walls; swarms of restless insects stray
from herb to herb, or flower to flower;
the lazy Syrian dog betakes himself to
sleep, having barked throughout the
night at the approach of every footstep;
the Metaweli prepare for their day's la-
bour, and harness the oxen to the plough,
or prepare to spin the cotton for manu-
facturing the cloths they sell; herds of
goats, with large horns, long ears, and
long, but not silky hair, like the goats
of Anatolia, are driven by peasants to
their pasture-ground. Man lifts up his
voice to pour forth his orisons to his
Creator, and the morning awakens fresh
feelings of wonder, delight, and purer
thoughts; thankfulness for His protect-
ing care, and silent adoration of His sur-
rounding works; for each-

"Breathes of pervading love, and shows the

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searches of the antiquary respecting its surrounding buildings. It is 145 feet each way, extreme width, and is strewn with broken cornices, columns, capitals, and entablatures. From hence the ascent was easy, and brought me into a second court of a quadrangular form and considerable size. (4) All around the court formerly ran arcades, so as to form chambers or recesses, five in each of the principal wings, in the form of an oblong quadrangle, and measuring forty-three feet in diameter; and two of a semicircular form, thirty feet in diameter.

These chambers were open in front, and the roofs, which were supported by columns, have fallen in, leaving only the exterior walls to astonish us with their beauty of conception and finish: for the decorations are most elaborate; the cornices bold in the extreme, forming alternately a pointed and semicircular pediment over each recess; the niches highly sculptured; the pediments and friezes most elaborate. Fragments of granite columns and mutilated capitals remind us of the transitory fame of man. very statues that occupied the sculptured niches have not a vestige to enable us to trace their history, or award a laurel from the wreath of Fame to those that designed them.

The

Turning from the contemplation of Our space will not permit us to furNature's grandeur to the wreck of de- ther advance the multitudinous conjecparted splendour and widowed greatness, tures that have been put forth respecting I scrambled o'er masses of prostrate co- the probable intent of these recesses. lumns, cornices, capitals, and architraves, We know they are recesses, but care until the chief entrance to the grand little whether priests, lecturers, philosotemple was gained. This consisted ori-phers, orators, merchants, magistrates, ginally of a grand colonnade (1*) of the Corinthian order, and a fine staircase, which is now walled across, and flanked at its extremities by two square battlemented towers, (2) which were no doubt erected to fortify the place, as they are built of fragments of columns, cornices, pillars, and other relics of the architecture of former ages, which are thrown incongruously together.

now

Passing through a breach in this screen of architectural remains, I entered into the hexagonal court, (3) which from its ruined condition almost defies the reSee Plan p. 252.

or democrats, occupied them as lodgings, rostra, or seats, for the dispensation of justice-they were occupied once. Time has changed the tide of affairs; the men are not, and we cannot recal them; but we can admire the decorations, that surrounded each of them while living. From the interstices of the stones that form the summit of these walls a profusion of wild herbs sprang, and mantled the mouldering pile; and the creeping plants, entwining the rich sculptures of the capitals, gave a peculiar and picturesque effect to the whole.

The quadrangle itself is 350 feet wide,

and 336 long. The ground in the centre is somewhat elevated, and a foundation wall, running parallel with the exterior walls of the court, marks the site of some ancient building (5) long since swept away.

Advancing to the westward, I came out upon a fine large terrace, 230 feet long by 118 feet wide, which formerly had arches along its western and northern sides, while its southern had a row of magnificent Corinthian columns, of which six now only remain standing; the others being overthrown during one of the earthquakes formerly so common in Syria, and are now prostrate around them. In all probability there were originally about fifty-four of these columns standing, each side having seventeen of them, and the east and west ends ten each. Most of them are built into the walls; and others are mingled with the friezes, cornices, and architraves, that were overthrown with them, and now assist to fill up the vast space below. The shafts of these columns are 21 feet 8 inches in circumference, and 58 feet high; and the total height above the epistylia on which they stand is 72 feet, including the entablature, and 120 feet from the ground to the top of the pediment.

Those who have seen the remnant of this beautiful colonnade, can never forget its towering columns-the glory of Baalbec-especially when viewed from the small temple (9) to the south; or as the traveller advances towards Baalbec from Damascus. Whether we stand at their base and gaze upward, or view them from the quadrangular court, we are struck with the richness and chasteness of their details, alike in frieze, soffit, or cornice.

A wall to the south, running parallel with the ruins of the colonnade, divides the upper from the lower court, in which the Temple of the Sun is situated, which is probably the most ancient, and certainly the most perfect of all the remains at Baalbec. It is of the Corinthian order, and when perfect, was approached through a portico, consisting of a double row of colns, now overthrown and strewn in confusion before the entrance,

which is partially obscured by a modern wall, evidently built as a means of defence.

One of my companions joined me near the portico, and we passed through the doorway leading into the body of the temple. It is 25 feet high by 20 feet broad, surrounded with rich mouldings and ornaments, and is composed of nine great stones, three on each side, and three on the top; but the centre one, or keystone, has descended between three or four feet below the others. Every part of the doorway is covered with a profusion of ornaments which space will not allow me to describe; suffice it to mention, that everything that taste and skill could devise, and art execute in Corinthian architecture, has been lavished upon this graceful entrance. A crested eagle with expanded wings, grasping a caduceus in his talons, and holding in his beak the joined extremities of two festoons, each of which is held at the other end by a figure representing a winged genius, is carved in bas-relief upon the soffit. The genius to the right of the eagle is defaced.

Our entrance into the body of the temple created a great panic amongst a host of birds that had settled there, and the lizards retreated into their hiding places, alarmed at our unwelcome presence. It is 118 feet long, by 65 feet in breadth, and on each side of the entrance there is a square staircase, leading out to the top of the temple. The entire roof has fallen in.

At the western extremity there appears to have been an arch or canopy over the throne of the chief idol-probably Baal-supported by two beautiful Corinthian columns, 25 feet distant from the wall, with double square Corinthian columns in the two corners, and pilasters at the ends and sides, forming a partition between the body of the Temple, and the throne, or altar; and on that part of it which remains, may be seen sculptures in relievo, representing Neptune, Orion and his dolphin, various sea-gods, fishes, tritons, &c. The remainder of the two sides of the temple have three-quarter Corinthian columns, six feet apart, with

niches between them, evidently designed | force the blade of a penknife between for the reception of statues. These the blocks. niches are in two rows, the upper row having pointed, the lower one semicircular tops. The entire row has fallen in, and the large blocks of compact primitive limestone of which it was formed are heaped in confusion in the open space in the centre, some mossed over with gold, and others partly covered by the brier or the tendrilled plants that luxuriate here, and entwine themselves around the sculptured masses.

Near to the south-east corner there is a building, square outside, the walls of prodigious thickness, and entered by a beautiful Saracenic niche, with a staircase on one side, leading to the top, which is partially lighted by a circular opening, and narrow lancet windows at the sides. The roof is arched over, so as to enable it to sustain huge masses of stone belonging to a ruin on its summit.

If the mind is filled with astonishment Around the temple there was a row of at the grandeur, size, and execution of beautiful Corinthian columns, 45 feet the details of the interior of the Temple high, 19 feet in circumference, and 9 feet of the Sun, and led to inquire how such apart, and the same distance from the masses of stones could be raised to such wall. They were surmounted by a beau- a height as the top of the building, how tiful cornice, 7 feet high, with the space much more will this feeling be increased between it and the wall covered by a upon visiting the interior of the enclocarved ceiling of separate stones, mea- sure in which the principal ruins stand; suring about 13 feet 8 inches long, by for the blocks of stone, forming part of 10 feet 3 inches in breadth. Each one is the old wall on the western side towards sculptured in bas-relief, and represents the plain, are enormous; they lie, consome of the reigning monarchs, sur-secutively, in the same course, and about rounded by their children in some in- 25 feet above the ground. What power stances; in others, the space appropriated did they employ to raise such stones? for them is filled in by some elegant orna- One measured 63 feet in length, 13 feet ment, probably indicating that the sove-in height, and 10 in width; two others reign was childless. One tablet that I were each 60 feet long, and 12 feet broad examined had ten children, another only and deep. The whole of the wall of three; the fourth compartment being an which these stones form a part is comelegant design. posed of huge blocks; but they appear insignificant by the side of these monsters. On the north side there are huge stones, and at the foot of Anti-Lebanon, about half a mile from the town, and to the south of it, is a quarry, which contains one large block hewn out, but not separated from the rock, measuring 69 feet 2 inches in length, 12 feet 10 inches in breadth, and 13 feet 3 inches in thickness, which would weigh about 1135 tons, supposing its specific gravity to be the same as Portland stone.

The tablets on the north side had the king and queen placed at either end of them, and the children in the centre; but those on the south side had the children at the extremities, and the monarchs in the centre. One tablet represented one of the queens nursing a child, and as the right breast was deficient, it is reasonable to suppose that she was intended to represent an Amazon.

Many of the columns that surrounded the temples are displaced; there were fourteen on each side originally-sixteen in front of the pronaos are fluted; nine remain on the north side with the ceiling, and four on the south, with six on the west. Each column consists of three pieces of stone, joined together by a square piece of iron, fitted into the centre of each block, and they are so nicely fitted together, that it is impossible to

Space will not permit me to describe the two subterranean passages beneath the grand temple, running east and west, and connected by another passage with the sculptured inscriptions; and scarcely to allude to the small octagonal building, about half an hour's walk from the town called by the natives Kubbet Duris-with its Corinthian ornaments.

The Metaweli women have, generally, delicious water, that flows through its very fine features, large black eyes, full centre. of expression and vivacity, luxuriant raven hair, brown complexions, and fine figures. A Metaweli has a different idea of beauty to ourselves, for corpulency is considered as an especial claim to the appellation of belle;" and their standard of feamale beauty is - "Eyes black as the gazelle's; a skin white as as milk, and smooth as amber; a mouth like a row of pearls set in coral; and a face full as the moon." They are taller in proportion than the men, averaging five feet; and are quiet and retiring in their dispositions, and devoid of the brutish expression the men so often exhibit. Their chief occupation is in spinning cotton, and tending the goats we have mentioned before, which are of an uncommon species.

The population of Baalbec has decreased considerably of late years, in consequence of oppression, want, and disease. In 1751, when Volney visited the town, it contained 5,000 inhabitants; but the earthquake of 1759, which caused so much destruction to the temple, and overthrew many houses, also destroyed 20,000 lives in the valley of Baalbec, and many in the town. The subsequent wars of the Emir and the Djezzar Pasha so reduced the number of the inhabitants, that in 1785 they only amounted to 200. Burckhardt, who visited the town in 1810, estimated the number of the Metaweli families at 70, and the Greek Catholics at 25. Now, allowing 3 to each family, this would give 285; and in this he has not enumerated the Maronites, or wandering tribes. At the period of my visit in 1843, the number of persons residing in the town was 180.

The town itself presents a most wretched appearance, being a confused heap of dilapidated hovels, that have suffered much from the earthquakes; they have flat roofs, and are built of sun-burnt brick or mud. A ruined bath, and two mosques with a lofty minaret, and the Emir's serai or palace-as it is termed—are the only buildings to be seen. The fountains of the Mosques, and the town itself, are well supplied by an abundant stream of

The rising mists, and crimson glow of evening, warned us to depart; and thanking the superior of the convent for his attention to us while there, we bade adieu to Baalbec, probably for ever. I urged not my horse as we rode away from its neighbourhood, for there is a charm about its ruins that almost binds you to the spot. Those who have seen Baalbec by moonlight and sunrise can never forget it; it is an epoch in the life of a traveller. The lustrous light of the moon, with her star-bespangled train, afforded us a glimpse of the road we were travelling; but there was little to interest us-no beautiful scenery or ma jestic ruins; and on we went, with monotonous tramp, until we arrived at Zahle, where we halted for the night.

At day-break we were again on our way, being desirious of paying a visit to the ruined temple of Hermes Nieha, which is about two hours' distance from Zahle. The ruins stand in a valley surrounded by barren rocks, having a spring near to them to the eastward, which rustled in merry mood in its time-worn channel; leaping by the imbedded rocks, while flocks of goats lined its banks, nipping the scanty herbage and blades of grass.

The temple faced the west, and a grand flight of steps, twelve feet broad, with a column three and a-half feet in diameter at the extremity of the lower step, formed the approach to a spacious pronaos, in which are the remains of columns. A doorway, six feet in width, leads to the cellar, the roof of which has fallen in, and covers the floor, while only one half of the side walls remain. It is 36 feet long by 16 in breadth, and on each side on the walls stood six pilasters of an indifferent Ionic order. At the extremity of the chamber are steps, choked up with frag ments of columns and walls, which led to a platform, where, in all probability, the statue of the idol stood. The temple appears to have been built in the latest ages of Paganism, and is remarkable for its want of elegance in design and execution. On the right side of the entrance

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