glad to have religious instruction afforded them in that language. Many of them gladly attend on his and Mr. Irving's ministry; but others are zealous Roman Catholics, and adhere closely to the priest of Agra."

From Agra to Baroda and Bombay the route of the Bishop and his doctor lay through the States of Central India and Rajpootana, where, on all sides, were evidences of the statesmanship of Sir John Malcolm and the almost kingly magnificence of Colonel Todd and Sir David Ochterlony :

"7th January 1825.

"... The recollection of where I am, and the circumstances of convenience and safety under which I have traversed, and am about, if it please God, to traverse regions which are laid down as a terra incognita in Arrowsmith's map of 1816, ought to make, and I hope does make, a strong impression on my mind of thankfulness to that Great God, whose providence has opened to the British nation so wide and so untried a field of usefulness,—and of anxiety, lest we should, any of us, in our station, fall short of those duties which this vast increase of power and dominion imposes on us. I am often ready to break into lamentations that, where so much is to do in my own peculiar profession, the means at my disposal enable me to accomplish so little. But I ought to be anxious, far more, not to fall short in my exertions of those means which I have, and to keep my attention steadily fixed on professional objects, in order that what I cannot do myself I may at least lead others to think of, and perhaps to accomplish."

66

"8th February.

During my stay at Nusseerabad I was the guest of Brigadier Knox, the oldest cavalry officer now in India, and who has not seen England since he was a boy. His house had as yet been the only place for divine service, but was not nearly large enough for the station. There was a ballroom of sufficient size, but objections had been made to using this as a church also, which I soon obviated, and the place was directed to be got ready for Sunday. On the Saturday preceding I held a confirmation, when I administered the rite to twenty-seven people, the good old Brigadier at their head. On Sunday I had a congregation of about a hundred and twenty, of whom thirty-two stayed for the

Sacrament. This was an interesting sight in a land where, fifteen years ago, very few Christians had ever penetrated."

"17th February.

"All the provinces of Meywar were, for a considerable time after their connection with the British Government, under the administration of Captain Todd, whose name appears to be held in a degree of affection and respect by all the upper and middling classes of society, highly honourable to him, and sufficient to rescue these poor people from the often-repeated charge of ingratitude. Here, and in our subsequent stages, we were continually asked by the cutwals, etc., after 'Todd Sahib,' whether his health was better since he returned to England, and whether there was any chance of their seeing him again? On being told it was not likely, they all expressed much regret, saying that the country had never known quiet till he came among them, and that everybody, whether rich or poor, except thieves and Pindarees, loved him. He, in fact, Dr. Smith told me, loved the people of this country, and understood their language and manners in a very unusual degree. He was on terms of close friendship with Salim Singh of Kotah, and has left a name there as honourable as in Oodeypoor.”

"20th February.

"Captain Gerard I found, under a very modest exterior, a man of great science and information; he was one of the persons most concerned in the measurement and exploring of the Himalaya Mountains, had been in Ladak, and repeatedly beyond the Chinese frontier, though repelled each time, after penetrating a few miles, by the Tartar cavalry. He had himself ascended to the height of nineteen thousand six hundred feet, or four hundred higher than Humboldt had ever climbed amid the Andes, and the latter part of his ascent, for about two miles, was on an inclined plane, of forty-two, a nearer approach to the perpendicular than Humboldt conceived it possible to climb for any distance together. Nothing, he said, could exceed the care with which Major Hodgson, Mr. Frazer, and himself had ascertained the altitude of the hills. Each of the accessible peaks had been measured by repeated and scrupulous experiments with the barometer, corrected by careful trigonometrical measurement, checked by astronomical observations. The inaccessible heights had been found by trigonometry, on bases of considerable extent, and with the help of the

best and highest-priced instruments. The altitudes, therefore, of the hills, and the general geography of the provinces on the British side of the frontier, he regarded as about as well settled as human means could do it, and far better than the same objects have been obtained in most countries of Europe. The line at which vegetation ends he states to be about thirteen thousand feet. The mountains of Kumaon, he said, are considerably more accessible and less rocky than those which lie north of Sabathoo, where the scenery is more sublimely terrible than can be described. Yet Nandidevi, and the other highest peaks, lie nearer to Almora than to Sabathoo, and the scenery of both these situations falls short of the upper parts of the valley of the Alakananda, which flows between them. The more I hear of these glorious hills, the more do I long to see them again, and explore them further. But my journeys never can, nor ought to be mere tours of pleasure, and the erection of a new church, the location of a new chaplain, and twenty other similar matters may compel me to a course extremely contrary to what I could desire if I were master of my own time."

PALACE OF THE MAHARAWAL OF BANSWARA

At Banswara, the most southerly of the states of Rajpootana, then notorious for female infanticide, he was surprised by the architectural attractions of the palace and the walled town, as large as Chester. Here he first saw the Bheel aborigines, for whom Christian missionaries are now doing much. When passing from the wild Bheel country into the Bombay Presi

dency, where he was met by Archdeacon Barnes, an old Oxford friend, the Bishop thus wrote in his Journal:

"13th March.

"This day, being Sunday, I was happy to be able to halt, an order which I believe was very acceptable to all the men and animals in the camp, who, after our late stony roads, were alike showing symptoms of fatigue. I read prayers as usual in the morning; and in consideration of the greatly advanced price of provisions, which was now a rupee for fourteen seers of flour, I paid the bunyas for furnishing a seer of flour, or day's meal to every person in the camp. In the course of the afternoon I had the happiness to receive a packet of letters, forwarded by Mr. Williams, Resident at the court of Baroda, containing a favourable account of my wife and children, and letters from my mother and sister. I dreamt of Hodnet all night!"

"Near Barreah village was the finest banyan-tree which I had ever seen, literally a grove rising from a single primary stem, whose massive secondary trunks, with their straightness, orderly arrangement, and evident connection with the parent stock, gave the general effect of a vast vegetable organ. The first impression which I felt on coming under its shade was, 'What a noble place

of worship!' I was glad to find that it had not been debased, as I expected to find it, by the symbols of idolatry, though some rude earthen figures of elephants were set up over a wicket leading to it, but at a little distance. I should exult in such a scene, to collect a Christian congregation."

At Baroda, the capital of the Maratha State of the Gaikwar, who received him with much ceremony-including an offer to bait an elephant, which he declined-the Bishop consecrated the pretty Gothic church in which, ten years after, Dr. John Wilson of Bombay preached. At Nadiad, now a railway station, he was visited by the Hindoo reformer, Swami Narain, of whose popularity and of the purity of whose teaching he had heard more than the facts justified afterwards :

"He came in a somewhat different style from all which I expected, having with him near two hundred horsemen, mostly well armed with matchlocks and swords, and several of them with coats of mail and spears. Besides them he had a large rabble on foot, with bows and arrows; and when I considered that I had myself more than fifty horse, and fifty musquets and bayonets, I could not help smiling, though my sensations were in some degree painful and humiliating, at the idea of two religious teachers meeting at the head of little armies, and filling the city, which was the scene of their interview, with the rattling of quivers, the clash of shields, and the tramp of the war-horse. Had our troops been opposed to each other, mine, though less numerous, would have been, doubtless, far more effective, from the superiority of arms and discipline. But, in moral grandeur, what a difference was there between his troop and mine! Mine neither knew me, nor cared for me; they escorted me faithfully, and would have defended me bravely, because they were ordered by their superiors to do so, and as they would have done for any other stranger of sufficient worldly rank to make such an attendance usual. The guards of Swami Narain were his own disciples and enthusiastic admirers, men who had voluntarily repaired to hear his lessons, who now took a pride in doing him honour, and who would cheerfully fight to the last drop of blood rather than suffer a fringe of his garment to be handled roughly. In the parish of Hodnet there were once, perhaps, a few honest countrymen who felt something like this for me; but how long a time must elapse before any Christian teacher in India can hope to be thus loved and honoured! Yet, surely there is some encouragement to patient

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