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five minutes, for two others also began to show signs of exhaus tion, and were more than once on the point of giving out. But all things must have an end, and at length we reached the summit ridge, whence the descent to the ravine where we had left the wild boar was comparatively easy, after what we had already gone through. The Otahcitan shouldered the boar, and we returned, with but one or two halts to rest the exhausted members of the party, to the native huts in the valley, where we arrived a little before six o'clock. One of the gentlemen was by this time so much spent that he hired the Otaheitan to carry him in a canoe round to the Kanaka settlement at the southern end of Port Lloyd, the rest of us taking a path which led thither by land.

The evening was cloudy and rain began to fall, which hastened our departure. Ascending the same ravine by which we had reached the valley, as far as the taro patch, the Judge turned suddenly to the left and began climbing the slippery side of the mountain at an angle of about 50°. He declared that this was the usual road, but my eyes, although somewhat exercised in wood-craft, could not detect the least trace of a path. Under the thick clusters of sago palms was a dense un dergrowth of fern, in which we could gain no foothold, and were continually falling flat on our faces. The Judge himself began to be fagged by this time, and frequently proposed that we should rest. The others were in no wise averse to this, but I felt little fatigue from the labors of the day, and was so anxious to reach the Kanaka settlement before dark that I hurried them onward. After gaining the summit, the way was easier, and we met with occasional faint traces of a path Passing over an undulating tract for a mile or more, we came upon the

western slope of the island, overlooking Southern Head, and the entrance to Port Lloyd. I now saw that a deep, picturesque bight made in below the Head to the mouth of the valley we had left, and that the shortest and most usual route of the natives between the two settlements, was by sea. The sides of the hills we traversed were covered with a deep, coarse grass, waist-high, and so thick that we fairly waded through it. It was a fortunate circumstance for us that there are no venomous reptiles on the island.

I was in advance, the others being scattered along the side of the hill, when I happened to notice that one of the party was missing. I sent back the coolie, and then the Judge, and finally ordered a halt, while I returned to look for him. After calling and searching for some time without effect, he was at last found lying in the bottom of a glen, asleep, as he stated. He stumbled along with us for a short time, when he tumbled into the grass, declaring that he was utterly exhausted, and would remain there all night. Finding that we could not get him to go forward, we picked him up by main force, and carried him to the summit of the hill, where I left a man in charge of him while we hastened down, in order to gain the flag-staff above the Kanaka settlement, and fire a volley to bring a boat off for us. We plunged through the cane-fields, stumbled up the hill, and found ourselves on a high cliff, overlooking the bay. The big hull of the Susquehanna was barely visible in the darkness. We fired half a dozen volleys, when we heard the report of musketry from the base of the Paps, at the head of the bay. It was, as we conjectured, the party of Dr. Fahs, signalizing like ourselves for a boat. At length, fearful lest our signal should not have been heard, I sent the marine in a

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canoe to bring a boat. He met the first cutter half way, but the tide being out, she was obliged to anchor off the reef in front of the settlement, and send the canoe to take us in small companies.

We waited half an hour for our missing comrade, and finally reached the ship's side about 10 o'clock weary and famished. Though I suffered less, I believe, than most of the others it wast certainly the hardest day's work of my life.

18

CHAPTER XXXIII.

VOYAGE TO JAPAN AND RECEPTION THEKE

Return to Loo-Choo-Mails-Departure for Japan-The Island of Ohosima-The Japanese Coast-The Headland of Idzu-Precautionary Measures-Cape SagamiThe Bay of Yedo-Approach to Uraga-A Hint-The Squadron Halts-Japanese Boats-A Talk at the Gangway-The Vice Governor of Uraga-His ReceptionThe Boats Repulsed-Japanese Boatmen-Watch-fires-Yezaimon, Governor of Uraga-Consultations-An Express to Yedo-The Emperor appoints a Commissioner -Permission to Land-Skilful Negotiations-Scenery of the Bay-The Fortifications-The Peak of Fusi-Yamma-Canvas Defences-A Surveying Party-Sounding along Shore-Forts and Soldiers-Threatened Collision-A Second Survey-A Mirage-Warlike Appearances-Lieut. Bent's Encounter with Forty-five Japanese Boats-Result of the Survey.

ON our return to Loo-Choo, where we arrived on the 24th of June, we found the Plymouth in the harbor. She had left Shanghai in comparative quiet, and with no present apprehension of an attack. She was most welcome, on account of having brought the mails for the squadron. After having been seven months without news from home, the delight with which I received a large package of letters can only be comprehended by those who have had similar experiences. As all the vessels composing the squadron at that time were now at the rendezvous, immediate preparations were made for our departure for Japan. Owing to the foresight with which the vessels had been supplied, little was needed except a stock of fresh provi

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sions, which the Loo-Choo authorities, after some delay and equivocation, furnished us at double the ordinary price.

The squadron, consisting of the Susquehanna (flag-ship), Mississippi, Plymouth and Saratoga-the two sloops of war being taken in tow by the two steamers-sailed from the harbor of Napa-Kiang, on the 2d of July. On the night of the 3d and morning of the 4th, we passed the large island of Ohosima, part of the Kingdom of Loo-Choo. This island, which has been known to the Dutch, through the Japanese charts, and was seen by the French Admiral Cécille in 1846, is not found on English charts. The U S. ship Preble, in 1849, supposed she had made the first discovery of it, and gave it the name of "Preble Island." It has never been visited by a foreign vessel. It is thirty or forty miles long, mountainous, and thickly inhabited. After passing it we had very sultry weather, until we reached Japan-the thermometer standing at 84° at night, and 88° to 90° at noon, in the coolest place on board.

At daybreak, on the morning of July 8, we first made land, which proved to be Cape Idzu, a lofty headland on the coast of Niphon, not far south of the entrance of the great Bay of Yedo. The Brocken and Vulcan Islands were in sight on our right. After passing Rock Island, we stood in nearer to the shore, which loomed up grandly through the hazy atmosphere. The promontory of Idzu is a group of mountains, rising to the height of five or six thousand feet, their summits scarred with slides, and their sides mostly covered with forests, though here and there we could discern patches of cultivated land. There were a number of fishing junks off the coast, some of which put back again as we approached. The wind was ahead, we had all sails