RNGLISH CLAIMS TO THE ISLAND.

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earth and stones, we stood upon the opposite shore. In a large rocky headland, lying opposite to us, there was a cave a hun dred yards long, passing entirely through, and traversed by the canoes of the natives. After taking a bath in the clear, shaded waters, where we had moored our boat, we pulled out again through another branch of the cave, with a narrower entrance. Not far from this there was still another cave, wth two entrances, separated by a huge pillar of rock. The water was so clear that we distinctly saw bottom at four fathoms. The bed of the cavern was varied with groves of blue and purple corals, and the rocks beneath the water line were studded with patches of the purest emerald green, caused, apparently, by the combination of some of their component parts with the salts of the sea. Through the dark, rugged arch of the entrance, the bright blue surface of the bay, and the sides of the palmy hills beyond, shone with indescribable lustre, like a picture burnt in enamel.

Capt. Beechey took possession of the Bonin Islands in the name of Great Britain, though with what justice I cannot see, since he could not claim the right of discovery. There was some attempt at one time, I believe, to found a colony, but it has long since been relinquished. The only show of English sovereignty at the time of our visit was a ragged flag, left in the charge of a Kanaka, who hoisted it the day after our arri val. Mellichamp, who was sent to Port Lloyd by the English Consul at Honolulu, had left nearly two years previous, for Guam, where he was then remaining, unable, it was said, to leave the place.

CHAPTER XXXII.

AN BXPLORING TRIP THROUGH PEEL ISLAND.

Exploring Parties Appointed - My Part-Setting Out-Climbing the Hills--The Soil and Productions-Land-Crabs-Crossing a Ridge-A Tropical Ravine-Signs of Habitation-A Marquesan and his Household-South Sea Pilots-The Valley-The Forest Again-Trees-Shooting a Wild Boar-The Southern Coast-A PrecipiceDangerous Climbing-A Frightful Ravine-Descending the Precipices-South East Bay-The Nom-Camp-Ascent of the Ravine-The Party beginning to Fag-The Valley Again-A Slippery Ascent-A Man Lost-Firing Signals-Return to the Vessel.

ON the day of our arrival at Port Lloyd, Commodore Perry announced his determination to send two exploring parties into the interior of the island on the following day. Dr. Fahs, Assistant Surgeon, was appointed to the command of one, and myself of the other. A number of volunteers at once offered themselves, and we made our selections and arranged our plans without delay. We were supplied with carbines, ammunition and haversacks, with a day's rations. The island is not more than six miles in length, in a straight line, so that it was thought that two parties might readily explore the whole of it in the course of a day. Dr. Fahs and I accordingly divided it between us, he taking the northern portion, or that

CLIMBING THE HILLS.

399

lying immediately around Port Lloyd, while I decided to strike across the central part of the island to its southern extremity, touching by the way, if possible, on Fitton Bay, a harbor on the eastern coast.

My party consisted of Mr. Heine, artist; Mr. Boardman, Midshipman; Mr. Lawrence, Assistant Engineer; Mr. Hampton, Purser's Steward; Dennis Terry, a seaman; Smith, a marine, and a Chinese coolie. We left the ship's side before sunrise, and were put ashore at the watering-place at the head of the bay. I divided the rations and ammunition, allotting to each man his share, so that we all carried light loads. There was no one at the watering-place except a Kanaka, whom we could not obtain for a guide. He pointed out, however, a small foot-path, which he said went over the hills to a Kanaka settlement, about three miles distant. We struck into it at once, plunging into a wilderness of dense vegetation, which furnished a faint type of our experience for the rest of the day. The path was steep and slippery; the plants were wet with a heavy dew, and the wild parasitic vines which hung from tree to tree, continually caught us in their toils. The trees were principally palm, among which I noticed the

true sago palm,

from which the sago of commerce is made. The soil was a rich, dark red loam, composed of disintegrated trap rock and vege table mould. The same soil prevails all over the island, so far as my observations extended, except on the northern shore of Port Lloyd, where it is mixed with a grayish sand and pebbles. Trap rock, of a coarse texture, appeared frequently on the steeper declivities of the ridge, and I noticed growing in the crevices a variety of the hibiscus, with a large flower of a dull orange color The ground was in many places covered with

a shower of white blossoms, which I afterwards found had dropped from a tree about thirty feet high, with a small glossy leaf, thick foliage, and a stout trunk of a whitish color.

The forest became more dense as we reached the summit of the ridge. The thick, luxuriant crowns of the palms, above our heads, kept out the rays of the sun, and the trunks and creepers combined made such an impervious shade that it was impossible to see more than fifteen or twenty yards in any direction. The path was but little used, and rather difficult to be traced. As we came into the beds of water-courses leading down the opposite side, the multitudes of large brown land-crabs that scampered out of our path was truly amazing. The ground was alive with them in the cool, moist, corners of the ravines, and some of them were fully six inches in breadth The top of the ridge, an undulating region, furrowed with deep gulleys, was about a mile and a half in breadth, after which we came upon a descent at so sharp an angle that we were obliged to swing ourselves down from tree to tree, to prevent tumbling into the bottom of the ravine. An opening through the woods showed us a wild dell, completely shut in by precipitous mountains, every foot of whose sides, except the walls of naked rock on either hand, was covered with the richest foliage. A stream of good water lapsed over the rocky bottom, fringed by rank thickets of palm and other trees, while the bristling pandanus thrust its serried, spiky leaves over the tops of the cliffs, and the long, loose tresses of flowering creepers, shaken from some overhanging bough, swung in the air. The scenery was tropical in every feature, and as wild and rugged as nature could make it.

The ravine opened to the southward into a narrow valley

A MARQUESAN AND HIS HOUSEHOLD.

401

We here lost

which showed signs of being inhabited. Crossing the stream, we came upon a patch of the taro plant, the stalks of which were the highest and most luxuriant I ever saw. the path, and struck directly through the taro. six feet high, and so drenched with the night's dew that we Finding the forest beyond imsteepness and density, we re

It was fully

were speedily wet to the skin. practicable, on account of its turned to the bed of the stream. The little valley into which it ushered us was covered with patches of sweet potato, taro, pumpkins, tobacco, sugar-cane, and the sida, or Indian goose berry, growing with a prodigal strength and luxuriance. Two huts thatched with palm-leaves, stood in the centre of the valley. Finding them both deserted, though exhibiting evi dences of having been occupied that morning, we fired our guns, the report of which was answered by a hail. Presently a South-Sea Islander, in a coarse cotton shirt and pantaloons, and with one half of his face tattooed a light blue, made his appearance. He said he was a native of Nukaheva, in the Marquesas, and his name was Judge." He conducted us around the corner of the mountain, where the valley opened westward to the sea. The stream became a creek deep enough for canoes, in one of which the Judge had just arrived, bring ing a large turtle with him. He was already half through with the operation of cutting up the flesh, while four dogs looked on wistfully, waiting to pick the shell when he should have. finished. The Judge was apparently in good circumstances, having in addition to his hut, his plantation, his turtles and dogs, a pen of black hogs. I asked him to accompany us to the southern extremity of the island, which he said was about three or four miles distant. There was no path, and he did