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shark's fins, and a dark, stringy substance, which toe Taou-tai said he had procured from Pekin, at great expense. The din ner was followed by a grand ball, and a supper in European style.

There were rumors of trouble at Ningpo, and the French steamer Cassini made a trip to that city. Mr. Robert Fortune, author of "Wanderings in China," and "A Journey to the Bohea Mountains," who had arrived in Shanghai a short time previous, also left for Ningpo, whence he proposed making new journeys into the interior. Mr. Fortune is a plain, unassuming man, and an enthusiastic botanist, and by his daring excursions into the tea districts, has added greatly to our knowledge of the interior of China. Mr. Forbes, who went to Ningpo in the Cassini, returned about the 10th of May in a Chinese junk, by way of Chapoo.

CHAPTER XXIX.

THE U. S. EXPEDITION то JAPAN.

State of Things at Shanghai-The Sloop-of-War Plymouth-Preparations for Depart ure-Entering the Naval Service-Its Regulations-Procuring a Uniform-The Master's-Mates-Establishing a Mess-Departure for Japan-A Gale-ShipwrecksStanding out to Sea-Arrival at the Great Loo-Choo Island-A Missionary-Beauty of the Harbor of Napa-The Native Authorities-Going Ashore-Jumping over a Coral Reef-Landing-The Town of Napa-Kiang-Spies-Dr. Bettelheim's Residence.

IMMEDIATELY after the transfer of Commodore Perry's broad pennant to the Susquehanna, active preparations were made for the departure of the squadron on its mission to Japan. Since the return of the Hermes from Nanking, there was very little apprehension of danger, either among the Chinese or the foreign residents. The former had very generally returned to their homes and opened their shops, in accordance with the Taou-tai's commands. The American commercial houses, nevertheless, addressed a letter to Col. Marshall, asking that they should not be left entirely defenceless-on account of which application, Commodore Perry detached the sloop-of-war Plymouth from the squadron for a few weeks longer. Col. Marshall, who had as yet not been able to find a proper Chinese

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official to receive his letters of credence, finally made application to the Court at Pekin. He desired to proceed to the mouth of the Pai-ho River, in the Yellow Sea, and there await his answer, but a council of sailing-masters, called together by the Commodore, reported, after a long consultation, that it would be impossible to get within sight of the shore in a vessel drawing so much water as the Plymouth. Tuesday, the 17th of May, was appointed for the departure of the Susquehanna and Mississippi, the sloop-of-war Saratoga having already sailed from Macao for an unknown rendezvous.

I had extended my travels to China with a strong hope of being able to accompany the Expedition to Japan. On the arrival of Commodore Perry, I learned that very strict orders had been issued by the Navy Department against the admission on board of any of the vessels, of any person not attached to the service and subject to its regulations. Capt. Buchanan, who had no clerk, and was justly entitled to one, very kindly proposed that I should go in that capacity; but as there were two vacancies in the rank of master's-mate, which the Commodore had power to fill, and as my willingness to enter the service temporarily, removed the only objection he had urged, I decided to take the latter chance. I therefore signed an

article of allegiance, and became an officer of very moderate rank, with unlimited respect for my superiors, and the reverse for my inferiors. This enlistment, which I most gladly and readily made, rendered me subject to all the regulations of the Navy Department; especially to that order promulgated for the benefit of the officers of the Expedition, which obliged them to give up to the Department every journal, note, sketch, or observation of any kind made during the cruise. I there

fore closed my old journal, and commenced a new one from the day I entered-which latter is now in possession of the Navy Department, according to agreement. Nearly all the officers, on the contrary, had ceased keeping journals from the day the order was issued. I should have had some hesitation in submitting myself to that almost absolute power, which is the life of the Naval Service, had I not already known so well the officers of the Susquehanna. My confidence was not misplaced, for, from the Commodore down, with but a single exception, I received nothing from them but kindness and courtesy, during my connection with the service.

I had some difficulty in procuring the necessary uniforms. There were none but Chinese tailors in Shanghai, who work entirely from ready-made patterns. By foraging among the officers I procured a sufficient number of anchor buttons, and a crest for my cap; in the shop of a French merchant I found some cloth of the proper color; I borrowed one coat for the sleeves, another for the body, and another for the arrangement of buttons; and by keeping a watchful eye upon the tailor, finally succeeded in obtaining both undress and full-dress uniforms, which came within two buttons of being correct. Having assumed the blue, and buttoned my coat up to the throat in order to display the eighteen gilded eagles and anchors which decorated its front, I walked down the bund to try its effect. I endeavored to appear careless and self-possessed, but the first man-of-war'sman who passed betrayed me. I know that I actually blushed when he lifted his tarpaulin, and I doubt to this day whether I returned his salute. A little further, a jolly, red-headed tar, with a large cargo of samshoo aboard, came up and shook my hand heartily, promising me an

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oyster-supper in New York, after our return.

I felt more at

home in the service after such a characteristic welcome, and was not afterwards embarrassed by my buttons.

The places of acting master's-mates (the rank of warranted master's-mates being now obsolete) had been purposely left vacant, in order that it might be filled by artists and naturalists, who would thus belong to the service and be under the control of its officers. The rank and uniform is that of a passed midshipman, but the pay-twenty-five dollars a monthis considerably less than half of what the latter receives On the East India station it just about suffices for the payment of the mess-bill. There were three master's-mates on board the Mississippi-Mr. Heine, the artist; Mr. Draper, who had charge of the telegraph apparatus; and Mr. Brown, daguerreotypist. As they were specially subject to the Commodore's orders, they were transferred to the Susquehanna, and I joined them in forming a separate mess, to which was added Mr. Portman, the Commodore's interpreter and clerk. The vessel was so crowded, that we had some trouble in finding sufficient room for our mess-table and stores, but were finally placed upon the orlop deck, beside the main hatch, and over the powder magazine. My cot was slung in the same place at night, where it was brought by a sturdy main-topman, who had it in his particular charge. A cadaverous Chinaman, A-fok by name, was shipped as our steward, and an incorrigible black deck-hand appropriated to us as cook. We were thus provided with all the requisites of a mess, and although there was some grumbling from time to time, on account of the heat and darkness of the orlop deck, the incompetency of the steward, or the villainy of the cook, I found my situation

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