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of the islanders, who were placed in a college at Singanfoo, at that time the capital of China. From the Japanese, Yangti obtained fuller particulars of Loochoo and its people, and he, for a second time, ordered the despatch of an accredited mission, with interpreters, bearing a formal demand to the King to render homage to the Emperor of China as his sovereign. But the Loochoo ruler was by no means disposed to concede what Yangti demanded, and dismissed the Chinese envoys with the haughty reply that he did not recognize any prince as being over or superior to him. Yangti did not brook what he called the defiance of this petty ruler. He thereupon sent a powerful fleet, with 10,000 good troops on board, to invade Loochoo. The expedition was crowned with complete success. A great battle was fought, in which the King was killed, and the Chinese burned and pillaged in all directions. After remaining some time in the principal island the Chinese returned, bringing with them 5000 slaves. Under the Tang and Song dynasties the Chinese claims were permitted to slumber, and it was not until the time of the Mongols or Yuens that they sought to revive them. But even then the attempt was only a fitful one. In 1329 Chitsu equipped an expeditionary force, but the Mongols were so disgusted with adventures beyond the sea, by the failure of the attempt upon Japan, that he was induced to abandon his enterprise before it was half carried out. In 1372 Hongon, the first of the Ming Emperors, was more successful, obtaining by the address of his envoy what the fleet and power of the Mongol had failed to secure. The King of Loochoo, Tsai-tou by name, requested the Ming Emperor to invest him with possession of his States. A magnificent reception was accorded the messengers from Loochoo, and the Emperor gave his new vassal a gold seal in token of his appreciation of his loyalty. It was at this time that

Chinese subjects first began to settle in Loochoo, bringing with them the Chinese character to the unlettered islanders, and a new religion. This connection continued throughout the succeeding reigns, and on one occasion the King of Loochoo acted as a kind of intermediary between China and Japan. During the naval war that was carried on between those Powers in the sixteenth century, the Loochooans helped the Chinese very materially, and in return the Emperor granted them special trade privileges. When the Manchus conquered China, the King of Loochoo still continued to send tribute. Both to Chuntche, to Kanghi, and to Yung-Ching, as well as to Keen-Lung, and several of his successors, he rendered fealty, and on several occasions missions were sent from the one court to the other. The old connection between China and Loochoo has been maintained down almost to the present day, and so far as we know, it is not probable that the people of those islands would, of their own accord, have cast off the purely nominal tie which bound them to China. The Japanese have most probably brought the matter to a crisis, and we shall soon know whether the Chinese Government will acquiesce without an effort in the loss of those historical claims which it so dearly prizes. The Pekin Government has not of late been in the mood to waive any of its privileges over its tributaries and vassals.

CHAPTER XXXIX.

GENERAL GRANT AND PARTY VISIT THE GREAT WALL OF CHINA - ALONG THE MONGOLIAN COAST THE FARTHEST POINT OF THE JOURNEY - A MIDNIGHT SALUTE -FAREWELL TO CHINA-BOUND FOR JAPAN-NAGAADDRESS OF THE

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SAKI LANDING AND RECEPTION
GOVERNOR GENERAL GRANT'S REPLY—A JAPANESE
DINNER -MUSIC IS INTRODUCED A MAGNIFICENT AF-
FAIR.

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A visit to the Great Wall of China is thus described: It seems to be a duty incumbent upon all who come to the East to visit the Great Wall of China. General Grant had planned a trip while we were in Pekin, and Mr. Holcombe had made all the arrangements. The Chinese Government had, with ready courtesy, given orders as to our treatment by the way, and the important question as to how we should go had formed a living theme of talk amid the depressing days of midsummer weather at the legation. You can go on horseback or on donkeys, or in a cart or in a mule litter; and when we had nothing else to do we went over the merits and demerits of each form of conveyance. Our old friend from the Nile,-the donkey,-whose achievements gave us an exalted idea of his patience and endurance, would have won the preference, but for the condition of the roads, which seem not to have been mended since the Tartar invasion. Mr. Holcombe told me had travelled all through Northern China, and in every form of conveyance, and that he found the most comfort in the mule litter. The mule litter is swung on poles and carried by two mules, one going ahead, the other behind. It is long

enough to enable you to recline. You creep in and huddle up, and your mules dawdle away with you. Somehow it gave the impression of going to your own funeral. The ordinary cart of the country, without springs or seats or cushions, in which you sit with your legs curled up or dangling over the sides, is torture. If we had made the trip, we should have walked most of the way, and had the carts and litters for smooth roads and fatigue, and other emergencies. The more the journey was considered, the less attractive it became. We were under the cruel stress of unusually warm weather. The thermometer was wandering about above the hundred-degree mark. Our journey to the Temple of Heaven, to the city walls, to other temples, had been attended with unusual discomfort. To go at all, we should have to travel at night and rest during the day. This consideration decided General Grant. His journey would be not alone to see the Great Wall, but the people in the interior, and especially to have a glimpse of Tartary. Travel by night would prevent this, and so we gave up the journey.

But to come to China and not see the Great Wall would have subjected us to adverse criticism for the remainder of our lives. Consequently there was a relief to our susceptibilities when we were told that the Great Wall came to an end on the sea-coast on our way to Chefoo, and with a favoring sea we could run up and go on shore. This was resolved upon, and soon the Richmond steamed slowly up the coast, the Ashuelot going direct to Chefoo. The contrast between the Richmond and the modest little Ashuelot was marked, and we had a sense of abundant space, of roominess, of opportunities for walking. But the Ashuelot is a well-commanded ship, and we left her with pleasant memories, and it was not without a regret that we saw General Grant's flag hauled down. It was our good

fortune to have a smooth sea, and when the morning came we found ourselves steaming slowly along the shores of Northern China lining the horizon. Navigation in the China seas is always a problem, and the coast past which we are sailing is badly surveyed. As a general thing, so carefully has science mapped and tracked the ocean, that you have only to seek counsel from a vagrant, wandering star, and you will be able to tell to the minute when some hill or promontory will rise out of the waves. There was no such comfort on the China coast, and the Richmond had to feel her way, to grope along the coast, and find the Great Wall as best we could. While creeping up the Chinese coast we were always on the watch for junks, but never ran one down. It was trying, however, to naval patience, and we found it so much better to be alone on the sea and look for our Great Wall as well as we could, undisturbed by the heedlessness of Chinese mariners.

About two o'clock in the afternoon, Lieutenant Sperry, the navigator, had an experience that must have reminded him of Columbus discovering America. He had found the Great Wall. By careful looking through the glasses, in time we saw it a thick, brown, irregular line that crumbles into the sea. The Richmond steamed towards the beach, and so gracious was the weather that we were able to anchor within a mile of shore. All the boats were let down, and as many as could be spared from the vessel went ashore- the captain, the officers, sailors in their blue, tidy uniforms, and an especial sailor with a pot of white paint to inscribe the fact that the Richmond had visited the Great Wall. The Great Wall is the only monument I have seen which could be improved by modern sacrilege, and which could be painted over and plastered without compunctions of conscience. From what I read of this stupendous achievement it was built under the reign of

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