VISIT TO SIGNOR CAPODIECI.

81

of Diana, when the inhabitants, more attentive to their superstitious observances than the means of defence, were in a state of general intoxication.

Having now viewed with much satisfaction the chief objects of curiosity in Acradina, we returned to the city, and in the course of the evening paid a visit to our old friend the antiquarian Capodieci, whom we found still occupied in his laborious compilations. In discussing the subject of the catacombs, he leaned strongly to the side of the Greeks; but I soon discovered the motive of this alliance to arise from their priority in point of time-" tam venerabile erat præcedere.”—By this addition of antiquity, the glory and dignity of his catacombs was proportionably exalted.—I say his catacombs, for he has appropriated to himself these and all the other Syracusan ruins, by daubing the walls in twenty places at least with his illustrious surname, in large capitals of white paint, introduced, no doubt, to form an elegant contrast with the sombre tints of antiquity. We observed this ridiculous album upon the ruins of the theatre, the "ear of Dionysius," the lautomiæ, the conspicuous crags of Epipolæ, and all the venerable remains of Syracuse. Nor does he fail to add the date of each succeeding visit. It were devoutly to be wished by all lovers of taste, that he would rest contented with those rational expectations of immortality which may be supposed to emanate from the forty-four volumes folio, instead of aiming at so precarious and short-lived a celebrity. In spite, however, of his egregious vanity, I must do him the justice to say that he has the renown of his country greatly at heart, and has brought to light by his excavations many interesting relics of former

ages.

Early next morning we resumed our researches, under the conduct of the little cicerone. But as we had complained bitterly of our mules on the preceding day, our host procured us a fresh set, and we found, to our cost, that we had not been deceived yesterday in the assurance that we were supplied with the best cattle in Syracuse.

82

EXPEDITION TO TYCHA.

Having ordered a boat to meet us about mid-day at the mouth of the Anapus, we proceeded, at the imminent peril of our necks every step, towards the quarter of Tycha, the third city in Cicero's enumeration, who informs us that it was so called from an ancient temple of Fortune, within its precincts, observing at the same time, that it contained a large population, with a spacious gymnasium and many sacred edifices *.

To arrive at Tycha, we crossed the high ground formerly called Temenites, which the Syracusans enclosed within their walls whilst Nicias was encamped under them, before Neapolis was added to the city. The appellation was derived in all probability from the sacred enclosure and grove † dedicated to Apollo, the trees of which were cut down by the Syracusans in this extremity, for the purpose of forming works of contravallation against the Athenians. Apollo seems, under this title, to have had the continental city in some measure under his patronage, as his sister had the island; hence it is, that on the reverse of those exquisite Syracusan coins, which are adorned with the head of Diana Zursiga, we frequently see that of the imberbis Apollo accompanied with a lyre, a sacrificial vessel, or a bow. The latter emblem, whose clang was so dreadful to the Grecian hosts, alluded to his character as exciter of the pestilence; by the former the God of healing and of harmony, the Apollo Σωτήρ οι ̓Αλεξίκακος was represented. The colossal statue of Apollo Temenites stood proudly eminent upon this hill;

"Signum pulcherrimum et maximum."

Cicero says, that its vast magnitude preserved it from the sacrilegious hands of Verres. It was reserved for an imperial plunderer ; for Suetonius in his life of Tiberius relates, that it was contemplated by

* This quarter had Acradina to the E. Epipola to the W. Neapolis to the S.; and the open country towards Leontium and Megara to the N.

+ Called by the Greeks réuevos.

FEW REMAINS OF ANTIQUITY-ATHENIAN WALL.

83

that prince to place it in the library of a temple which he had built or restored in honour of Augustus, and that he was prevented by the deity in a vision *. At a spot probably near the junction of Tycha, Neapolis and Acradina, we observed some large sepulchres cut in the rock, one of which had a front resembling a Doric portico: from the site of Tycha itself every trace of habitation has vanished, except the channels of aqueducts, the deep indentures of chariot wheels, and the mouldering remains of the city walls. How all the materials of so many sumptuous edifices and private mansions can have completely disappeared, I am at a loss to conjecture. Here is a platform twenty-two miles in perimeter, almost entirely composed of solid rock, on which scarcely a vestige remains above ground of the numerous buildings which adorned it, though most of them appeared built for immortality! They have not been used in the construction of the paltry modern town †, nor is there any city or public work of importance in the vicinity which owes its origin to the fall of Syracuse. This extraordinary circumstance seems almost to contradict the very tenour of history. We can account much more easily for the disappearance of that stupendous work, which I looked for in vain, the double wall of circumvallation ‡, built of solid masonry, by which Nicias blockaded the Syracusans and reduced them to the last extremity of danger, though he had not the ability to take advantage of it: this would naturally be overthrown by the inhabitants, as an obstacle to the exten

*Supremo natali suo Apollinem Temenitem et amplitudinis et artis eximia, advectum Syracusis, ut in bibliothecâ novi Templi poneretur viderat per quietem affirmantem sibi, non posse se ab ipso dedicari." Vit. Tib. c. 54.

+ It is scarcely necessary to except the fortifications of the isthmus, which were constructed from the ruins of the theatre, the Via Helorina, &c.

This wall was never quite completed, for the Syracusans after two failures succeeded at last, under the conduct of Gylippus, in pushing forward an oblique work of contravallation from the wall of Temenites, running towards Epipolæ, and cutting the Athenian line of circumvallation. It is difficult to mark precisely the direction of the Athenian lines, because we are ignorant how far Tycha extended westward in that age; but this we know from Thucydides, that they ran over the shortest possible space, from the Portus Trogiliorum over Epipolæ, between the castle of Labdalus and the walls of Tycha, across the Lysimelian marsh to the edge of the great harbour. (See the Map.)

84

HEXAPYLON-MARCELLUS WEEPING.

sion of their city: its materials might also have assisted Dionysius in the construction of those noble fortifications which he threw around Epipolæ, a distance of nearly four miles, in the almost incredible space of twenty days.

A ride of about five miles over a rugged rock brought us to the W. or rather to the N. W. extremity of the city walls, where the natural ramparts were crowned by a fortress of great strength, very celebrated in history, under the name of Hexapylon or Hexapyla. This fort was planned by the great Dionysius, and calculated to defend Epipolæ against all attacks. To this point the forlorn hope of the Roman army which scaled the walls during the night of Diana's festival, penetrated without any opposition from the inebriated guards: the castle itself was broken open at the dawn of day, and Marcellus entered with his legions. From these heights his eye could take in at one view the whole expanse of this magnificent city, with its palaces and temples glittering in the sun, and its harbours filled with triumphant fleets. The splendour of the scene, the recollection of its ancient glory, the knowledge of its impending fate, and the importance of his own victory, so forcibly impressed themselves upon the imagination of this stern conqueror, that he burst into tears. After a lapse of 2000 years we looked down from the same spot, and saw the scene of desolation quite complete. Groves, palaces, and temples, all have disappeared; the arid rock alone remains, where the serpent basks and the solitary wild flower is unbent by human footsteps. Thus it is; every production of art or nature comes to a close, and motion seems necessary to the state of human affairs; for the high tide of prosperity soon ebbs, and the very excess of civilization seems to hasten the period of dissolution. Athens, Rome, and Syracuse, have been. The time too may come, when father Thames shall roll his waves amidst the ruins of that splendid capital which rises now so proudly on his banks. If that period should arrive, we have at least the satisfaction to know, that its name will be inserted among those that have been most glorious in their

day that the future traveller, should he wander over its deserted site, will feel his heart glow, as he treads upon the soil where freedom flourished, and where the oppressed among the nations always found protection. Such thoughts occurred to my imagination as I cast my eyes upon the little island of Ortygia, which I saw floating as it were on the distant waves, and bearing on its bosom the poor remains of ancient Syracuse it was at this moment protected, together with the kingdom of which it forms a part, by the Ægis of Great Britain.

My reflections, however, were presently interrupted by a violent fracas, and on turning round, I observed my companion engaged in a fierce conflict with one of those large black snakes so common in this island: the reptile being closely pursued, and finding escape impracticable, raised itself up perpendicularly upon its tail in a threatening posture, hissing in a terrible manner.

In this erect posture he was nearly as tall as his antagonist, whom he thus checked, and then glided away with uncommon rapidity into the adjoining ruins. Those ruins are now distinguished by the appellation of Mongibellisi*. They are generally considered as occupying the site of the ancient castle of Labdalus: such is the opinion of Cluverius and Fazzello, the latter of whom says, "In summa Epipolis crepidine ac vertice arx erat Labdalus Græcè appellata Thucydidi, quam Hexapylon, lib. vi. secundi belli Punici vocat Livius." Upon a careful review, however, of the passages of Thucydides and Diodorus relating to this point, I am led to think that Labdalus was at a considerable distance lower in the descent, and at no great distance from

It is compounded of an Italian and an Arabic word, monte, and gibel, each of which signifies a height or mountain. Mongibello, the modern name of Etna, has the same etymology.