482 VILLAGE OF VELCHISTA. rection towards the village of Velchista. In about one hour and a half we arrived at the opposite side of the ridge and looked down upon a most picturesque glen, at the head of which the waters of the lake (as they are conjectured to be) ooze out of the ground in an infinite number of small streams, till they form a large body of water: this foams impetuously down the glen from rock to rock in a vast variety of cascades and sets in motion a number of water-mills, which, together with groups of Albanian girls washing linen in the stream, give an air of indescribable life and beauty to the scene. As the valley widens, the plains of the river Kalamas, or Thyamis of antiquity, (those plains where Atticus the friend of Cicero had his delightful country house, to which he retired during the most disastrous times of the republic) come finely into the prospect bounded by the blue mountains of Thesprotia. The houses in this valley appear as if they were shut out from connexion with the world; and their inhabitants, secure from its corrup tions, might here cultivate all the rural virtues in peace and tranquillity, but for the tyranny and exactions of Mouchtar Pasha, who purchased all the land, turned the village into a chiflick*, and obtains from the poor inhabitants a greater annual revenue than the sum with which he bought the property. In our endeavours to penetrate as far as the head of the valley to observe more accurately the exit of the waters, I had very nearly met with a fatal accident. As there is no regular road, we were obliged to find a way along the steep and precipitous sides of the glen; one hill I endeavoured to cross by means of a ledge formed of loose materials that had been washed down by the rains; but scarcely had I advanced ten steps when these materials began to slide from under my feet, and if I had not possessed presence of mind enough to recline quietly upon my back, I should have been precipitated down a chasm at least three hundred feet in depth. By slow degrees I regained my * The meaning of this term will be explained hereafter. original position, when we returned and proceeded to the western point of the village, where a fine angular promontory, like a natural mole or bastion, rises over the plain. The ancients, who were quite as acute as the moderns in selecting appropriate sites for their fortifications, had taken advantage of this to build thereon some very strong works, the massive masonry of which seems to defy the efforts of time in its destruction. In this neighbourhood are two old Greek churches, one of which occupies the site of a pagan temple or some other ancient edifice. In returning to Ioannina I was attacked by one of those fierce Molossian dogs which the shepherds of this country keep as the guardians of their flocks: the animal flew with such fury at my horse's heels, who plunged and kicked most violently, that I was obliged to turn and discharge my fowling-piece over him, or I should certainly have been unhorsed: probably a single shot touched him, as he gave a howl and ran off immediately. I have not unfrequently been exposed at different times to very considerable danger by the attacks of these ferocious animals: on one occasion, during our tour in Upper Albania, as I loitered a little behind the party, three of them set upon me at once, one of whom actually leaped from the high ground on the side of the mountain path upon my horse's back, and might possibly have dragged me from my saddle but for a blow which I dealt him from a large iron handled hunting-whip which I had carried from England. The colour of these dogs varies through different shades from a dark brown to a bright dun, their long fur being very soft, and thick, and glossy: in size they are about equal to an English mastiff: they have a long nose, delicate ears finely pointed, magnificent tail, legs of a moderate length, with a body nicely rounded and compact. There seems reason to think that, while the human inhabitants of this rich soil have been strangely intermingled with degenerate strangers, these four-footed tenants have preserved their pedigree unimpaired, as they possess all that strength, swiftness, sagacity, and fidelity which are ascribed to them by the ancient authors*; from whose accounts we find this breed was so esteemed that they were thought worthy of a place amongst the rarities of the earth in the splendid pomp of Ptolemy; whilst Polycrates, the celebrated tyrant of Samos, when, like an excellent agriculturist, he imported goats from Scyros and Naxos, pigs from Sicily, and sheep from Attica and Miletus, brought bitches also from the Spartan and Molossian territories to improve the breed of their guardians. January 15. The weather during our residence at Ioannina had hitherto been very favourable, only now and then interspersed with a little rain and sleet. Fahrenheit's thermometer had varied from 38 to 52 degrees, the observations being taken between twelve and two o'clock. A succession of several fine days just at this time gave us hopes of a mild winter, and Mustafà, at our request, issued orders at the post-house for as many horses as we might require on the following day. * The Molossian breed was so celebrated, that it was deduced from the famous dog of Cephalus, tơ which the following fabulous origin was assigned. The god Vulcan having made a brazen dog, according to the finest rules of art, endowed it with animation and made a present of it to Jupiter, from whom it descended through various hands to Cephalus. As this dog was created äpukros, i. e. endowed by fate with the power of catching every thing at which he should run, a dilemma ensued on account of the famous Teumesian fox, which at a prior birth had been created åŋToç, “fated never to be caught." Whilst two such animals therefore as these existed upon earth the Destinies could never be free from apprehension: to save their credit therefore, Jupiter was obliged to change both dog and fox into stone. Julius Pollux, v. c. 5. The savage nature of these Molossian dogs is denoted by Virgil in his Culex, 330. Scylla rapax canibus succincta Molossis:" and the terrible Cerberus was of the Epirotic breed: évdošos dè kài ở 'Hπεiρwτikòs Képßepos Pollux, v. c. 5. Eneas Poliorcetes (p. 24. ed. Casaub.) says that they were very generally used as letter-carriers when particular dispatch was requisite. Their fidelity is so well known that one example of it will suffice. The dog of Pyrrhus is recorded to have kept watch over his master while he slept, and being inconsolable at his death leaped upon the funeral pile and was consumed with his remains. From the constant mention made by the ancient poets and others of the Spartan and Molossian dogs together, it would seem probable that they were of the same breed, or at least held in equal estimation. 66 Molossus aut fulvus Lacon Amica vis pastoribus. Hor. Nec tibi cura canum fuerit postrema; sed una + Athenæi Deipn. v. 201. xii. 540. Virg, Georg. iii. 404. CHAPTER XVII. Departure for an Excursion into Thesprotia-Scenery-Greek Chapels, &c.-Ruins of an ancient City-Theatre and Walls-Conjectures on its Site-Village of Dramisus-Mountain Roads-Devitzianà―Heavy Rains-Miseries of an Albanian Cottage-Flute of an Eagle's WingAdventure at the Acheron-Return towards Ioannina-Village of Vareatis-Manner of killing Fowls-Scenery of Epirus-Molossian DogsArrival at Ioannina-Combat in the Streets-Visit the Vizir in his Albanian Room-Visit Mouchtar and Mahmet Pasha-Mr. Cockerell departs for Athens-Accompany him over the Lake-Cold of the Winter— Great Scarcity of Fuel-Game at Chess-Visit to a Greek-Dinner at the French Consul's-Letter from Mr. Cockerell, dated Livadia, and Extract from it. JANUARY 16.—The sun beamed bright upon the minarets of Ioannina as we departed on our Thesprotian expedition. A considerable concourse of people was drawn together by curiosity to see us, and several of our Greek acquaintance shook their heads at the idea of an Epirotian tour undertaken at this time of the year. Being preceded by Mustafà and an Albanian guide, whom Mouchtar Pasha had sent according to his promise, we advanced across the great plain in a direction S. S. W., and from thence diverged into the recesses of its mountain barriers. We soon arrived at some very beautiful scenery, and were particularly struck with the romantic sites of many pretty villages, as well as solitary Greek chapels, situated upon the tops of eminences and surrounded by umbrageous groves of venerable oaks or spreading beech trees. These chapels generally contain the picture of a saint to whom they are dedicated, and afford a place of resort to the 486 RUINS OF AN ANCIENT CITY. peasantry on the anniversary of their patron, where they assemble to amuse themselves in various sports after mass has been performed, or to dance beneath the shade, where each rustic nymph may listen to the accents of her admiring swain*. The whole of this savours strongly of antiquity. We soon saw before us the fine mountain Olitzika, which bounds the western side of the plain of Dramisus, rearing its two central peaks aloft into the air. After a ride of about four hours we arrived at the ruins of an old Epirotic city, affording one of the best and most perfect specimens of the ancient military architecture that we had hitherto beheld. Nor is it interesting on this account only, since it exhibits also in a very high state of preservation the largest theatre which has yet been discovered in Greece. Its form is the segment of a circle larger than a semicircle, whose diameter is 430 feet: the breadth of the orchestra is 130 feet, and its depth seventy-threet. It has two diazomata or corridors, but the upper gallery, as in all other instances, no longer exists it has twelve radiating flights of steps from the orchestra to the higher circle, and the length of these radii, as near as we could measure it, is 150 feet. We counted very easily fifty-four rows of seats, though from the convulsion of earthquakes such a disorder is produced as prevents an accurate determination as to the whole number. I should conjecture that there were at least sixty. We traced distinctly Festa dies Veneremque vocat cantusque merumque. Ov. Am. 1. iii. El. x. + We took these measures with considerable accuracy, having carried out a graduated tape roller from England. |