168 REFLECTIONS ON THE STATE OF THE MODERN GREEKS. and governors look on with apathy or content, and Christian people stigmatize the very idea of their liberation with impolicy or injustice, crying out with one accord that the Greeks are unfit for liberty. It would indeed be the height of absurdity to suppose that any nation in these days either will or can be Quixotic enough to attempt their gratuitous liberation. The season for crusades is long past, and any power that should now attempt the invasion of European Turkey, would be instigated only by ambitious motives and the desire of aggrandizement: in this she would be opposed by the other civilized states of Europe, would be obliged to withdraw from the contest, and leave the unfortunate Greeks exposed to the merciless rage of their infuriated tyrants: this was the case when Russia made her last attempt; at that time the poetical figure of rivers flowing with blood was literally exemplified, and the calm of death succeeded to the tempest of roused animosity and disappointed hopes*. The Greeks therefore must deprecate the invasion of their country by a foreign power, and fear such interested friends as mortal enemies. What then, it may be said, remains for them to expect and others to bestow?-what, but the means of liberating themselves? and these means are not included solely in arms or subsidies: they would be of little service to a people so ignorant, so distracted among themselves, and so debased; a people certainly unfit at present for national independence: it is impossible to eulogize their character: with a few exceptions, it is in a high degree demoralized, and affords as bad a foundation to build upon as ever was presented to the political architect: but being convinced that national manners and morals depend mainly upon the government to which they are subjected, that the constitution of laws, not of minds, forms the chief difference amongst men, that superficial The Porte at this time had very nearly come to a resolution of exterminating all her Grecian population: it was only prevented in the divan by the famous Gazi Hassan, Capudan Pasha, simply asking the sage counsellors of the Turkish empire, "who was thenceforth to pay the haratch or capitation tax?" REFLECTIONS ON THE STATE OF THE MODERN GREEKS. 169 observers too often mistake a natural for a native character, and that a people always degenerate in proportion as they lose their liberty and rights, I would make a reasonable allowance for their vices, and rejoice to see scope and opportunity given them for the cultivation and exercise of the opposite virtues. I cannot believe that hypocrisy, perfidy, and meanness, are inherent in their disposition, being convinced by experience, that the natural sensibility and good qualities of the Greek character are always found more pure in proportion as they are less exposed to the influence of Turkish despotism-fraud is the only instrument left in the hands of slaves to counteract the oppressor's wrongs: avarice takes deepest root, where every honourable stimulus to action is destroyed, or the sources of emulation are diverted: nor is it possible to root out these vices or shew their deformity to a people from whom the light of knowledge is excluded. So completely were the Greeks debased, that it was only by the late attempts of foreign potentates or the casual influx of modern travellers, that they came to know their own claims to independence or the glorious annals of their immortal ancestors. Liberty must still wait until the buds of patriotism can be unfolded and actions be directed by the proper development of principles but let those who are themselves basking in the sunshine of prosperity be less liberal in their reproaches against this unfortunate race; and let every nation, as she has it in her power, assist them in emerging from the darkness of intellectual bondage, and in breaking the fetters of prejudice and superstition. Knowledge will not do every thing, but without it nothing can be done: without this acquisition the Greeks will never become sensible of their defects, nor learn the true value of liberty: their hereditary feuds and provincial animosities will continue, that unnatural alliance between their oppressors and their priests, who are by habit, interest, and prejudice the supporters of despotism, will be unbroken, all channels for the communication of political sentiment will remain closed, and the direction of popular 170 REFLECTIONS ON THE STATE OF THE MODERN GREEKS. opinion, as hitherto, unknown. But when knowledge, whose power is stronger than arms of steel, shall animate the mass and mingle itself in the system, when virtuous and patriotic sentiments shall be sown in infancy, nourished in youth, and perfected in manhood, then may the sons of Greece arise and throw off the yoke of slavery as a lion shakes the dew-drops from his mane; then may they dash down from its pedestal of clay that colossus which now towers above their unfortunate country in all the horrible deformity of an evil genius; then may they claim the sepulchres of those who fell at Thermopylæ and Platea. How far distant this period may be, is known to that Being alone who can bring good out of evil, and whose throne is far above the reach of mortal ken: but length of time is requisite to perfect the fruits of knowledge; its stem, like that of the oak, comes gradually to maturity. Reform, to be effectual, must be progressive; must work by the light of experience as well as that of reason; must sow the seed before it expect to reap the fruit; and if it fail in compassing its philanthropic views, must console its disappointments by the anticipation of what futurity may bring forth. Under these impressions, whilst I contemplated the progress of improvement in Zante, I pleased myself with thinking that England might be the nation to whom the Greeks, under Providence, would owe the recovery of their freedom. From the Ionian islands as a centre, I fancied that I beheld the rays of knowledge diverging over the horizon, and continental Greece illuminated by their influence. I saw England placed in a most conspicuous situation, the eyes of Greece turned upon her and imploring her pity and protection; I saw how she now distributed the blessings of civilization among her dependants and maintained her ancient character for generosity and good faith. How ardently did I hope that she might ever preserve that character, and abstain from sacrificing the interests of humanity to a mistaken policy; the effect of which would be to alienate from herself the affections of DEPARTURE FOR THE MOREA. 171 an interesting unfortunate people, and throw them into the arms of another power, whose preponderance might thence become too great for the repose and prosperity of the European states. I beg pardon of the reader for this long digression; in consideration of which I will spare him the tedious recital of leave-taking and other preparations for our departure in Zante, and transport him at once over the Ionian waves to the shores of ancient Peloponnesus. CHAPTER VI. Arrival at Patras-Fast of the Ramazan-Greek Host and his Sons— Hospitality of the English Consul-Turkish Bath-Scenery around Patras-Manners of the People-Serious Affray-Visit to the VaivodeDeparture from Patras-Description of a Turkish Han-Reflections thereon-City of Calavrita-Ruins of Cynetha-Conduct, and singular Visage of a Postmaster-Suthenà—Arcadian Scenery and Peasantry— River Aroanius-Bridge and Tomb of a Turkish Agà-Han-Climate of Arcadia-Plain of Mantinéa-Arrival at Tripolizza—Greek Dragoman-Unfortunate Dilemma with the Pasha-Cephalonian Doctor— Visit to Ruins of Tegea-Friendly Conduct of Nourri Bey-Extract from Mr. Cockerell's Tour in the Morea-His Discovery of the Phigalian Marbles, &c.—Departure from Tripolizza-Mount Parthenion— Lernaan Marsh-Arrival at Argos. AFTER the close of day on the 8th of September, we cast anchor in the Bay of Patras: the shades of night were already spread around its cypress groves, but brilliant rows of lighted lamps surrounding the slender minarets of its mosques, rendered the city faintly visible to the eye, as if it had been seen through a darkened glass. This illumination, together with the hollow sound of drums and the grating discord of Turkish music*, announced to us that we had arrived in the fast of the Ramazan, a season of mortification to the disciples of Mahomet, who are enjoined the most rigid abstinence for one month during the whole time that the sun is above the horizon: after sun-set and the celebration of public prayers, their law allows them to take a slight refresh *The principal instrument in a Turkish band is called zournas: it somewhat resembles a hautboy, but is smaller, and emits a very shrill and grating sound which is heard to a great distance. |