At the head of the room was a large scarlet lacquered box, with brazen feet, beside which Yezaimon and the interpreter, Tatsonoske, knelt. The latter then asked whether the letters were ready to be delivered, stating that the Prince was ready to receive them. The boxes were brought in and opened, so that the writing and the heavy golden seals were displayed, and placed upon the scarlet chest. The Prince of Iwami then handed to the interpreter, who gave it to the Commodore, an official receipt, in Japanese, and at the same time the interpreter added a Dutch translation. The Commodore remarked that he would sail in a few days for Loo-Choo and Canton, and if the Japanese Government wished to send any despatches to those places he would be happy to take them. Without making any direct reply, the interpreter asked, “When will you come again?" The Commodore answered, "As I suppose it will take some time to deliberate upon the letter of the President, I shall not wait now, but will return in a few months to receive the answer." He also spoke of the revolution in China, and the interpreter asked the cause of it, without translating the communication to the Prince. He then inquired when the ships would return again, to which the Commodore replied that they would probably be there in April or May. "All four of them?" “All of them," answered the Commodore, "and probably more. This is but a portion of the squadron." No further conversation took place. The letters having been formally delivered and received, the Commodore took his leave, while the two Princes, who had fulfilled to the letter their instructions not to speak, rose and remained standing until he had retired from their presence.

The return to the boats was made in the same order, the bands playing "Hail Columbia" and "Yankee Doodle," with spirit. Yezaimon, Saboroske, and the two interpreters attended the Ĉommodore to the boat, and as the embarkation of the different boats' crews occupied some time, on account of the smallness of the jetty, several of the Japanese soldiers profited by the delay to come down and examine us more closely. Many of our men strayed along the beach, picking up shells and pebbles as momentoes of the visit. In less than twenty minutes, however, all were embarked, and we returned to the ships, accompanied by the two Japanese boats which had piloted us to the shore. Before twelve o'clock the anchors were weighed, and both vessels were under weigh on a cruise up the bay.

CHAPTER XX.

THE UPPER BAY OF JEDDO.

YEZAIMON, Saboroske, and the Interpreters accepted an invitation to remain on board until we reached Urága, and have their boats towed at our stern. This gave them a chance of seeing the steamengine in operation, for which they had expressed a great desire. They were conducted over the ship and saw the engine from all points of view, betraying a great deal of curiosity in regard to its operation, but no fear. They even obtained a glimmering idea of the manner in which the steam acted, to set the enormous mass in motion. Tatsonoske asked if it was not the same machine, in a smaller compass, which we used on railroads. During their inspection of the ship they saw many things which must have been new and strange to them, but their composure and self-possession were not in the least disturbed. Notwithstanding the decks were crowded with officers and men, whose curiosity to see them was very great, they were to all appearance unconscious of it, and conducted themselves with as much ease and propriety as I ever saw among the most refined people. The complexion of these officers was a dark olive, but not too dark to allow a ruddy tinge on the lips and cheeks. Their eyes were somewhat larger, and not so obliquely set as those of the Chinese, their foreheads broader and more open, with a greater facial angle, and the expression of their faces denoted a lively and active mind. Notwithstanding that spirit of caution and secresy which, through the continual teachings of their government, has become almost a second nature to them, their faces were agreeable and expressive. Their motions and gestures were characterised by an unstudied grace, and it was the unanimous opinion of all our officers that they were as perfect gentlemen as could be found in any part of the world. A curious illustration of their dislike to the Chinese, who are greatly inferior to them in propriety, and elegance of manner, occured while they were on board. One of their Interpreters, noticing some of the Chinese deck-hands, who had been shipped at Shanghai, asked with a face expressive of great contempt and disgust: "Is it possible that you have Chinese among your men?" Mr. Portman, with much readiness, but not entire truth, replied: "These men are the servants of our sailors," and thereby reinstated us in the good opinion of the Japanese.

While going their rounds, their swords were left in the cabin, and

A

most of the officers made use of the opportunity to examine them. The steel was of admirable quality, and kept in good condition, although the shape of the blade was rather unwieldy, and the handle was without a guard. The scabbards were made of shark-skin handsomely polished. While in the cabin, a globe was brought, and the position of the United States shown to the Japanese. Tatsonoske immediately pointed out Washington, and seemed tolerably familiar with the geography of our country, as well as that of Europe. He asked whether in America many of the roads were not cut through the mountains-evidently referring to railroads. Yezaimon expressed his desire to examine a revolver, several of which the Japanese had noticed in the officers' belts. Commander Buchanan therefore fired off all the chambers of a genuine "Colt" from the quarter-deck, to his great astonishment. Before we had half gratified their curiosity (which the steam-whistle raised to the highest pitch), we were off Urága, and they were obliged to leave.

As we moved out past the promontory of Urága, the western shore opened on the left, showing a broad deep bay, embosomed by hills covered with the greenest and most luxuriant foliage, and with several large villages at their base. We approached within three miles of the eastern shore, which is loftier and wilder than the western, rising into a range of rugged mountains, which showed no sign of habitation or cultivation. But the lower slopes, which undulated gently to the water, charmed me by the rich beauty of their scattered groves, and the green terraces and lawns into which centuries of patient cultivation has formed them. Out of England there is nothing so green, so garden-like, so full of tranquil beauty. To the north, the hills gradually sank away, and a sandy spur three or four miles in length, stretched into the bay. This proved to be the ground whereon we had seen the parade of Japanese soldiers, when the surveying boats ascended the bay. The two mounds I had noticed through a glass, were surmounted with batteries of about five guns each.

Changing our course, we made over toward the other side, steering for a bold projecting headland about twelve miles beyond that of Urága. In the intervening bight, there are two lovely, green islands. The shores of the bay are as thickly settled and as assiduously cultivated, as about and below Urága. During the voyage up, we had at no time less than seven fathoms, and generally from thirty to forty. After going a short distance, beyond the point reached by the Mississippi,and upwards of ten miles beyond our former anchorage, we dropped anchor a mile-and-a-half from the shore, in thirteen fathoms. The inward-bound junks, I noticed, made for a point a little east of north from our position. According to the Japanese charts, and the best descriptions of Jeddo, this must have been the direction of the capital. A long, low headland.

was visible with the glass, with (apparently) another bight beyond it; but to the north-east, for a segment of about 30 deg. no land could be seen. This also corresponded to the form of the bay, as given in Japanese charts.

Towards evening we had another visit from Yezaimon, who had followed us from Urága, with the intention of finding out what were our motives in proceeding so far up the bay. Whatever objections he may have made, they did not appear to be effectual, for as long as we remained, the survey was prosecuted with great spirit and activity. On the following day (Friday), Lieuts. Cooper, of the Susquehanna, Clitz, of the Mississippi, Goldsborough, of the Saratoga, and Mathews, of the Plymouth, sounded around the islands and up the head of the bight, where they found a deep inlet, into which flowed a beautiful river. The banks were studded with villages, groves, and gardens, and the officers were enraptured with the beauty of the scenery. The natives of both sexes, old and young, came down the banks and saluted them in a friendly manner, bringing them cool spring-water to drink, and ripe peaches from their gardens.

On Friday afternoon, the Commodore went on board the Mississippi, transferring his flag to that ship for a few hours, while he made an exploring trip still further up the bay. After going ten miles in the direction of Jeddo, the Mississippi put about in twenty fathoms water, and returned to her former anchorage, having reached, as was supposed, a point within eight miles of the capital. On the western shore the large towns of Kanagawa and Koważacki were seen; while on the extremity of a cape in front, not more than four miles distant, stood a tall white tower, resembling a light-house. Three or four miles beyond and within this point was a crowd of shipping, which was without doubt the anchorage of Sinagawa, the southern suburb of Jeddo. There was every probability that the Mississippi could have advanced to a point within cannon-shot of the city. The head of the bay rounded to the eastward, and in that direction the shores became low and flat, and finally disappeared below the horizon. The squadron had, therefore, advanced twenty miles further up the Bay of Jeddo than any previous vessel, and shown conclusively that, instead of being shallow and unnavigable, as had formerly been supposed, it contains abundance of water and excellent harbours. It is, in fact, one of the largest and finest bays in the world, and second to none in the varied and delightful scenery of its shores.

Early on Saturday morning we moved from our first anchorage to another, five or six miles further down the bay, and much nearer to the shore. There was abundance of water everywhere, and all around the beautiful little island, a line dropped close to the shore gave five fathoms. The western coast, which was less than a mile distant, appeared wonderfully green and beautiful.

It curved inward so as to form a charming sheltered bay, near the head of which the two villages of Otsu and Torigasaki lay embosomed in foliage. There was a small battery, almost masked by trees, on the summit of the island, and another on the point of the cape below us. This part of the bay is completely land-locked,, the promontory of Urága projecting so far as to cover one-third of the eastern shore. The surveying boats were occupied during the whole of the day, without any interference on the part of the Japanese, who seemed to have made up their minds to submit to these unusual proceedings. Too much credit, however, cannot be awarded to the different officers, for the coolness and courage with which they prosecuted their work. When we consider that this, one of the greatest bays in the world, had hitherto never been surveyed, the interest and value of their labours will be better understood.

Yezaimon came again on Saturday morning, accompanied by both the Interpreters. This time they brought a number of presents, as souvenirs of our visit-consisting of lacquered cups, very light and elegant in form, brocade silks, richly wrought with gold and silver thread, tobacco-pipes and pouches, and fans covered with hideously distorted and lackadaisical pictures of Japanese ladies. The Commodore was willing to receive them, but insisted on giving something in return. A selection of American manufactures was made, which, with some maps, engravings, arms, and other articles, formed a return more than equal in value. They refused to take anything, affirming that it was forbidden by their laws, and would subject them to the danger of losing their lives; besides, they declared, the presents offered them were too valuable to be accepted. They were each willing to receive some small articles, which could be readily concealed about their persons, but were positively informed that we could accept of nothing unless they took our gifts, with the exception of the arms, which were removed, as they stated that they could in no case give or receive arms. When Yezaimon saw his presents about to be tumbled back into his boat, he yielded at once, choosing what he probably considered the least dangerous horn of the dilemma.

In the afternoon, they returned in the best possible humour, their course having apparently been sanctioned by some higher authority on shore. They brought off a quantity of fowls in light wicker coops, and three or four thousand eggs in boxes, taking away in return a large case of American garden-seeds. The interview lasted a considerable time, as they were socially disposed, and partook of refreshments. Tatsonoske stated, in a half-confidential way, that the letter of the President had been received in Jeddo, and that if the translation which they had already obtained through the Dutch corresponded with the original, the Government would be disposed to regard it very