nets, gloves, and shoes, presents to some beloved sisters: the rude talons of the law pounced upon the whole collection, and condemned their unfortunate bearer to the penalty of 1301. Having replaced our goods and chattels, we proceeded, passing through a suburbal part of more than an English mile long, terribly paved with large unwieldy and unequal stones, and entered the city which promised us great gratification. We drove to the Hotel Français, so called perchance, because not a soul in the house could speak a word of French. Like Bottom's idea, in the Midsummer Night's Dream, "I will get "Peter Quince to write a ballad of this dream: it shall be "called Bottom's Dream, because it hath no bottom." After groping up a dark winding stone stair-case, we were, with much difficulty, shewn into a comfortable suite of apartments. It is surprising that the hotels in Stockholm are so few and so bad.

( 119 )

CHAP. VII.

NATIONAL WELCOME-BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF STOCKHOLM-A GREAT GENIUS IN DECLINE-PAINTING-SHORT SKETCH OF GUSTAVUS III. FEMALE STRATAGEM--THE PALACE--THE STATE BED--THE OPERA HOUSE-ASSASSINATION-FORGIVENESS-A HINT NOT INTENDED TO OFFEND.

IN the morning our slumbers were gently dispelled by music, which "came o'er our ears like the sweet south." According to the custom of the country several musicians, I believe belonging to the military band, serenaded us at our chamber door, with some exquisite soft national airs, which induced us to rise. After breakfast we ascended an eminence of rock called Mount Moses, in the south suburb, from whence we beheld in a bird's eye view this singular and beautiful city, which appears to be a little larger than Bristol, is situated in 59° 20′, of northern latitude, and stands upon a small portion of two peninsulas and seven islands of grey granite, washed by a branch of the Baltic, the lake Mæler and the streams that flow from it. The palace, a large quadrangular building, uniting elegance to grandeur, rises from the centre of the city,

120

SERGELL THE STATUARY.

which it commands in all directions. It will be more particularly described afterwards. The merchants' houses, which are in the south suburb, run parallel with the spacious quay, and front the ships which are moored close to it, are lofty, and in a graceful style of Italian architecture. Most of the buildings, rising amphitheatrically one above another, are either stone or brick stuccoed, of a white or light yellow colour, and the roofs are covered with dark or light brown tiles, and presents with the surrounding scenery of scattered half-covered rock, thin forests of fir, the lake, and the windings of the Baltic, a most romantic and enchanting prospect. The streets are very badly paved.

The reputation of Sergell the statuary speedily attracted us to his house, where we beheld his beautiful Cupid and Psyche, which he has determined shall not be sold, until that event shall have happened which stops and sanctifies the works of genius. These figures display the finest conceptions of feeling, grace, and elegance, and heartily did I rejoice to find it in that country, which I trust will never permit it to be removed. In a temporary building, we had also the gratification of seeing the colossal pedestrian statue of the late Gustavus III. in bronze, which had just been cast, and was then polishing: it is a present from the citizens of Stockholm, and will cost when finished, 40,000l. and is intended to commemorate the marine victory, obtained by that illustrious prince over the Russians, in