eral hundred antelopes. They let us approach until we got within a hundred and twenty yards, and then trotted slowly off. I fired, notwithstanding, but with no other effect than causing them all to leap up eight or ten feet into the air, and then make off at full gallop.

We reached the bungalow at noon, and after breakfast walked into Manpoor, which is a walled village, though very small.

This was the first walled village we had met, but from this point, almost every place which we saw, however insignificant, was defended by mud walls and ditches. Until within a few years, such defences were absolutely necessary. They were used to protect the inhabitants, sometimes against invading armies, sometimes against organized bands of robbers, but oftener against the freebooting incursions of neighbouring rajahs, and not unfrequently against the agents of their own ruler. The existence of these fortifications, so entirely disproportionate to the size of the places which they protect, is a striking proof of the perfect lawlessness which must have prevailed in these countries until quite recent times. At the present day, they are mostly falling gradually to ruin. In fact, they are no longer needed. The omnipresent arm of the East India Company protects the inhabitants in the enjoyment of their lives and property, far better than any defences which they can erect; and peace and prosperity now reign where marauding incursions, bloodshed, robbery, and devastation were formerly matters of constant occurrence.

Within the walls, Manpoor was a wretched collection of mud huts. We entered several Hindoo temples, the courts of which were decorated on the inner side with fresco representations of mythological scenes, painted in very bright colours. We were obliged to take off our shoes before entering these temples.

Another object of interest was a yogee, or Hindoo religious mendicant. He was a youth of about twenty years, entirely naked, smeared with mud and cow-dung, and altogether one of the most disgusting beings I ever set my eyes on; still, the inhabitants seemed to treat him with great veneration.

We were followed in our walk by sixty or eighty boys and young men, and when we left the village, the people crowded along the ramparts to see us off; the great interest and curiosity which our appearance excited showing evidently that ' we had come to a country where Europeans are seldom seen.

We left Manpoor about midnight for Buranah, twenty-eight miles off, and next morning, January 19th, after an early breakfast on the road, of ham and eggs, biscuits and coffee, we made our way through a barren and rocky tract of country to Buranah dâk-bungalow-which we reached at half-past two in the afternoon.

Just before arriving, we passed a zěmindar, making a pilgrimage to the shrine of Juggurnath, on the eastern coast of India, south of Calcutta. He was travelling in a bailee, or bullock-cart, shaded with a canopy of scarlet cloth. His train was very numerous, and comprised several well-armed men, a large number of servants and camels, horses and bullocks. The zémindar was a fine-looking, fat old fellow, but being a Hindoo, did not think it worth while to salám to us.

Arrived at the dak-bungalow, we did not get anything to eat till four in the afternoon, and by the time we had finished breakfast it was so late that we gave up our usual walk through the village, and went out with a gun instead, to get some breakfast for the next day. We succeeded in bagging some ducks, pigeons, and a peacock. At ten in the evening, we dined, and about midnight left for a thirty miles' march to Jaipoor.

At eight on the following morning, we took breakfast outside a village, the whole public of which came out to look at us, and squatted around our palkees in admiring circles. While the bacon and eggs were being cooked by our servant over a fire of sticks built on the road, we took our guns and shot a great many pigeons, which afterwards did us good service at Jaipoor, where we could get scarcely anything to

eat.

After breakfast we walked for about ten miles. The country was again jungul, but we occasionally passed villages, around which the ground was cultivated, and seemed productive. The

road was covered with people. We passed many travellers with escorts, and bullock-carts conveying merchandize eastward. We now began to notice, what is a striking feature in Rajpootana, namely, almost every man is armed with a sword, and many with a shield and spear in addition. This custom, which is common to all states under native rule, and is particularly noticeable in Oude, arises from the insufficient protection to life afforded by native governments. In the Company's dominions it has almost disappeared.

About ten o'clock we came in sight of a high range of hills, beyond which the town of Jaipoor is situated. By one o'clock we entered the pass, where the road is very good, and the scenery exceedingly picturesque, as the sides of the pass are steep and the hills well wooded and green.

We stopped the palkees near the entrance of the defile, and visited a large Hindoo temple and gardens belonging to a thakoor, who has a country seat here. The buildings are all of white marble and well worth a visit.

After walking for a quarter of a mile further, we came to a country palace of the Rajah, which we entered, and saw the gardens, and two large and handsome temples of Párbutee, who is represented by a hideous black doll, with a necklace of bleeding heads. The whole establishment is very extensive, reaching, with the gardens, more than half a mile on each side of the road. Free use had been made of the beautiful white marble for which Jaipoor is so famous, and which was conveyed on carts from this place to Agra and Delhi, for the construction of the Taj, and other architectural monuments of those cities.

The road led for about half a mile further through the pass, and soon after emerging upon the plain we came in sight of Jaipoor, the extent and beauty of which much surprised us.

The city of Jaipoor, which was built by Rajah Jai Singh, less than one hundred and fifty years ago, is situated in the midst of a beautiful plain, eight or ten miles broad, and completely enclosed by lofty hills, the crests of which are crowned

* Thakoor, a name given in Rajpootana to the great vassals; elsewhere called jagheerdars, or zěmindars.

by a long fortified wall, with towers at intervals. The town is more than a mile square, and surrounded by lofty walls of red sandstone, above which appear the marble walls of the palace, several domes, and a tall, square minár. Outside the walls are fine groves which give shelter to caravans of travellers, and on two sides the suburbs extend for some distance beyond the limits of the city proper. The situation of Jaipoor far surpassed in picturesqueness and beauty that of any other city which I saw in India.

About five o'clock we arrived at the dåk-bungalow, which is about a mile from the town. In the evening we had a call from a young lieutenant in the Bombay army, stationed at Jaipoor in command of a company of Bombay sepoys, who formed the Resident's guard. The Resident himself was absent, but this gentleman promised to get us elephants for the next day.

CHAPTER XXVII.

JAIPOOR.

Elephants-Beauty of the City-A Beautiful Temple-The Zenana and Palace-Its Rooms-Novel Stairways-View from Roof-A Court-Revenue Department-The English Resident sitting Cross-legged on the Floor-Dewán Khas-SitringeesNative Furniture-Curtain-ladies-A Lovely Character-Palace Gardens-His Highness' Toys-" Composite Architecture"-Native College-Marriage NachObservatory-Palace in Lake-Palaces of Ummeer-Splendid View-Tiffin in the Reception Court-Bishop Heber's Praises of the Palace-Bazár of Jaipoor-History of Jaipoor.

THE following morning two fine elephants with howdahs, scarlet jhools, or trappings, and several attendants and spearmen, took us to view the sights of the place. On entering the gate we were surprised by the breadth and splendour of the principal street, used as a bazár, and extending in a straight line through the town from gate to gate. It is crossed in the centre by another similar street, dividing the city in the opposite direction. At the point of junction is a broad square, having in the centre a marble tank. One side of this square is occupied by the Rajah's palace, which, with its gardens and courts, occupies one-sixth of the town.

Jaipoor, having been all built by one man, presents a regu larity and uniformity of design unusual in Indian cities. The houses are generally two stories high, but those on the two great streets have three and even four stories. The material is commonly white-washed pukka, the style of architecture quite Moosulman, and the houses are decorated in front with ornamental windows and stone balconies, which are often finely carved. The whole population of Jaipoor must be nearly a hundred thousand, almost exclusively Hindoos.

The first object visited by us was a small but very rich temple in a side street. It was entirely built of white and beautifully polished marble, the interior being richly decorated with