were now passing beyond the Mahommedan part of India, and coming to the Rajpootana states and other Hindoo territories, which have always preserved a sort of independence, both of the Mogul power and the Company's Govern

ment.

The territory of Bhurtpoor is inhabited by Jats-a Hindoo tribe from the banks of the Indus, near Mooltan. They come of the same stock as the Seekhs, and will still intermarry with them. In settling in this part of the country, the Jats began as cultivators and robbers on a small scale. Becoming enriched by this trade, they ventured to plunder the tributes as they were being conveyed to the imperial capital. At length they rose to making war on the neighbouring states, and before the death of Aurungzeeb, in the beginning of the last century, they declared and maintained their independence, which they retain to this day. The independence of these native states is, in general, merely nominal, as they are entirely at the mercy of the Honourable Company, and the advice of the resident ambassador becomes, in fact, a command. Such a government is, of course, not so good as that in the English territories, but is infinitely preferable to the unlimited despotism of native rulers. The independent chieftains, who are almost numberless, are now compelled to live in peace with each other, whereas formerly they were engaged in endless wars, rebellions, and free-booting expeditions. Taking the dominions of this one rajah alone as a specimen, we find that "the thick belt of jungul, three miles wide, with which the chiefs of Bhurtpoor used to surround their fortress while they were free-booters, has been fast diminishing since the capture of the place by the English troops in 1826, and will very soon disappear altogether, and give place to rich sheets of cultivation and happy little village communities."* In fact, the change spoken of in the above sentence, which was written fourteen years ago, has already taken place. The people, no longer dreading the warlike incursions of neighbouring rajahs, and secured against flagrant oppression by the watchful super

* Colonel Sleeman's "Rambles and Recollections of an Indian Official."

vision of the English Residents, are every year extending the cultivation of the soil, reclaiming waste land, and more and more turning their attention to agriculture and useful industry, instead of war and robbery-two pursuits which formerly gave constant occupation to a large number of the population. The first effect has always been to occasion great discontent among a large and powerful class, namely, the predatory chieftains and their feudal followers; but in a few years these murmurs cease, and general peace, plenty, and prosperity, with a rise in the value of property, resulting from the security of its tenure, testify to the good effects of the change.

In the afternoon we walked into the town, which, although very populous, is a mere collection of mud-hovels, traversed by narrow and dirty streets. The fort, containing the palace, is situated on one side of the town, upon an elevation of ground. It is a very extensive and exceedingly strong fortification. The moat is broad and deep, the walls thick and lofty. There are two lines of defence, formed of stone and earth respectively.

This place sustained two sieges from the English-the first in 1804, under Lord Lake, the second in 1826, under Lord Cambermere. The attack by Lord Lake was occasioned by the Rajah having taken side with the Maharattas, who took refuge in this place. Lord Cambermere's attack was in behalf of the Rajah, who had become an ally of the British, and whose throne had been usurped by one of his relations.

In both sieges, the defences of earth proved a most formidable obstacle. Cannon were found wholly ineffective against them, as the balls buried themselves without doing injury; and tedious mining operations had to be resorted to before the place was taken. The garrison resisted vigourously, especially during the first siege, when the loss of life was so great, in storming the walls, that the British army was almost repulsed. The earthworks are now in great want of repair, but enough remains perfect to show how formidable they must once have been.

* "Residents”—the title of the English Agents of the Honourable Company at the courts of native princes.

The Rajah's palace, situated within the fort, is of redstone, whitewashed. It possesses no architectural merit, being merely a great square building, four or five stories high, with marble pavilions on the roof. We were not allowed to enter, but did not much regret our exclusion. There are in the city one or two other palaces of similar construction, inhabited by the Rajah's relatives.

We walked around the walls of the fort, admiring the beauty of the country, which is principally owing to the fine groves of old trees; and the very great fertility of the soil, which is all alluvial, and overflowed every year, as I have described when speaking of Futtehpoor Seekree.

The fortifications, were dismantled, but there were still a few cannon remaining. They were of immense size, but of ridiculously small bore.

When we had made the circuit of the fort, we descended, and passed out of one of the gateways, which had bronze doors of great size, and very finely decorated with carved work.

Crossing the bridge over the moat, we returned to the bungalow, first going over several large mud fortifications, now deserted, but showing, like the large fort, that there were Todlebens in Central India, before Sebastopol was thought of.

We had intended to make an excursion to Deeg, a place twenty miles distant, which is the summer residence of the Bhurtpoor Rajahs. It contains several fine buildings; and gardens, which; with the pavilions they contain are, I should fancy, the finest in India. However, finding that we could get no conveyances but camels, and that it would delay us at least a day, we gave it up.

Deeg was the scene of a great battle, in 1804, between the English and Maharattas. The loss of the English was twoninths of their whole force-a very large proportion, but not greater than that sustained by them in many other engagements in India. These great losses are not to be attributed to what is called "a hard-fought field," but to the habit of the *Even in the battle of Waterloo, the English loss was only one in six; and that is a very large proportion for a European battle.

English soldiers of dashing up to the enemies' batteries, in the face of a deadly and rapid fire, (for natives are among the best artillerymen in the world,) and carrying the guns at the point of the bayonet, thus finishing the battle at a single stroke; for the natives do not long resist after their guns are taken, and generally disperse as soon as they are brought to close quarters.

Not being able to go to Deeg, we spent an hour or so of the morning at the Rajah's menagerie, where there were a number of animals, among others, two giraffes, in large bamboo cages. We could not learn were these came from. A number of game-cocks and fighting quails were kept in the menagerie, the combats of these birds being a favourite amusement of native princes. The keepers set some of the quails at each other, without spurs, but it seemed poor sport, as one of the combatants was sure to run away after the first en

counter.

We also got up wrestling and boxing-matches among the boys, by offering rewards for the best performers. The wrestling was exceedingly good, as it is everywhere a favourite exercise among the supple Hindoos; but the boxing did not succeed. The first blow in the face made the receiver whimper, and the "set-to" was so evidently a sham, that we withheld the promised reward.

We dined at eight in the evening, and started at midnight for Bosawur, thirty-seven miles to the westward.

On awaking, the next morning, we got out of our dhoolees, and walked eight or nine miles. The country generally appeared fertile and well cultivated, and the path by which we were travelling (for we had left the road, in order to make a short cut,) was bordered by well-tilled fields, and orchards of trees, bearing a fruit like the plum. Although this was the general character of the country, yet we passed through several miles of jungul, upon which we saw a very large herd of deer. They were, like all wild animals in India, not at all shy, and let us approach quite near, but not near enough to be within range of our smooth-bore guns.

During this journey we often regretted not having a rifle

in the party, as we might without any trouble have shot a deer almost every day, which would have been no bad thing in a country where chicken and goat's flesh is the only meat procurable; and even that not always to be had.

Before reaching Bosawur, we came in sight of some hills, the view of which, although they were distant, was a great relief after the monotonous dead-level of Northern India. In fact, we were now entering a hilly region, in which we may be said to have continued all the way down to Bombay, for although we frequently marched for days together over broad and perfectly level plains, yet, even there, there was almost always a mountain or range of hills visible upon the horizon to remind us of what we had come through, and of what we had still to pass.

We arrived at Bosawur dâk-bungalow at two in the afternoon, and ordered breakfast, to the great astonishment of Khansahman, who had never heard of taking that meal in the afternoon.

After breakfast, we took a walk in the town of Bosawur, which is small and dirty. The houses are almost all mere mud-huts, and the streets narrow, unpaved, and filthy. However, having nothing better to do, we wandered all over the place, and finally came upon a native distillery, a very rude establishment under a thatched shed. A crowd of natives accompanied us in our walk, and we treated them to as much liquor as they could drink. The liquor is a kind of whiskey made of wheat, and is only used by the poorer classes. They drink it unmixed with water, and in incredible quantities. The price is fabulously low.

We got dinner about half-past nine, and left at midnight for Manpoor, distant four-and-twenty miles.

Our walk on the morning of the 18th was again interesting. The country was hilly, and perfectly barren. Numerous travellers passed us on foot, on camels, on horseback, or in bullock-carts. They all treated us with the greatest respect, and saluted us with courteous saláms.

Just before arriving at Manpoor, we crossed a broad sandy nullah, or river's bed. A little way off we saw a herd of sev