the Hindoos on the other hand assert that it existed before the advent of the Moosulmans. Each view has earnest supporters, who find very strong arguments for their respective opinions. Whichever party is right, the Kootub is certainly perfectly unique. If it was built by the Mahommedans, it is unlike every other minár in India or the world, both in form and decoration; if, on the contrary, it was constructed by the Hindoos, it is the only edifice of considerable dimensions erected by them which has come down to the present day. I suppose the question will never be decided, for no nation would willingly give up for its race the honour of having devised and completed a monument which so far surpasses in sublimity every other creation of oriental art, and which, whether we consider the grandeur and originality of the conception, or the workmanlike knowledge of art displayed in its construction, whether we look at the boldness, grace, and exquisite execution of the ornaments with which it is covered, or their perfect harmony, and entire subordination to the grand features of the design, must, I think, be allowed a rank by the side of the most renowned triumphs of western architecture.

The mosque which I have mentioned as situated at the foot of the minár, was built as the Jumma Musjeed, or principal mosque, of old Delhi. It is doubtful whether it was ever completed; at any rate it would now be in ruins were it not for the care of the Company's government, which has caused the tottering walls to be strengthened, and restored the largest of the arches, which is of majestic proportions, and decorated with beautiful designs in scroll-work and Arabic inscriptions carved in the stone. In one of the court-yards of the mosque is the celebrated "Loha ka Lat," or "iron pillar." This column is really of bronze, about twenty feet high and two feet in diameter. It bears a short inscription, in a very ancient character, which was for a long time unintelligible. Its origin is unknown, but there is a legend that it cannot be moved from its present position, and the Hindoos point triumphantly to a dent in its surface, which they say was made by a cannon ball fired against it by the orders of Nadur Shah, who in vain tried to batter it down.

Leaving the pillar, we walked a quarter of a mile to the little village of Mehrowlee, to see the diving, for which the inhabitants are famous. The "locus in quo" is a baolee, a species of well which is not uncommon in the north and west of India. The excavation is perhaps sixty feet long by thirty broad, and the sides are supported by stone walls. The surface of the water, which is about forty feet below the level of the ground, is approached on one side by a flight of stone steps. The divers took their stand on top of one of the perpendicular sides and then jumped down, moving their hands and feet to and fro in their descent. On striking the water, they suddenly closed the legs together and drew the arms close to their sides. They made a tremendous splash on entering the water, and sunk so deep that before they rose again the surface was perfectly unruffled.

We afterwards took tiffin in the pavilion of an old surai, and returned to Delhi, by a different road, which led us by the observatory of Jai Singh, the scientific rajah of Jaipoor, who also built the similar establishments at Benares, Oojén, and his own capital, the former of which I have before described. The most remarkable object in this observatory is the great sun dial, the gnomon of which, built of stone, is one hundred and four feet in length, fifty-six in height, and about ten feet thick. The shadow thrown by this gnomon was received on two immense graduated quadrants, which, as well as the gnomon itself, were formerly cased with white marble. The observatory was founded one hundred and thirty years ago, and was formerly a great seat of astronomical science. It was, however, abandoned before the conquest by the English, and its numerous buildings have fallen into utter ruin, with the exceptions of the sun dial and two round stone towers pierced with numerous openings, the shadow of the sun's rays passing through which indicated his altitude.

We returned to the city, and after dinner I drove in a buggy through the Chandee chôk, or Silver market, which is altogether the handsomest street in India. It is about a mile in length, extending from the great western entrance of the palace, to the Lahoree gate of the city. Its breadth is one hun

dred and twenty feet, and an open aqueduct bordered by rows of trees runs through its centre. The houses on each side are mostly of pukka, and not over two stories high. Their roofs are tiled, and they have light wooden balconies in front which add much to the appearance of the street. The ground floor of these houses is commonly used for shops; the upper stories are often inhabited by what the natives call "scarlet ladies," and by other "great evils of great cities" in the East. When I was at Delhi, Chandee chôk was the gayest scene in India. Every native who could muster a conveyance of any description betook himself thither in the cool of the afternoon. Some came on elephants, which were magnificently caparisoned, and painted with bright colours around the eyes and on the trunk. Others rode milk-white horses, the tails of which were dyed scarlet, and which were decorated with housings of fine cloth and gold embroidery. Others rode in bailees, or two-wheeled carts covered with red canopies, and drawn by neat teams of bullocks. A few preferred palkees, or ton-jons, a vehicle very like the jan-pan of the hills. But at least half had abandoned oriental fashions, and adopting the manners and customs of their conquerors drove on the chôk in graceful English photons or buggies, drawn by wellgroomed and well-harnessed Arab steeds. All had as many followers as possible, who ran ahead armed with sword, spear and shield, shouting out their master's titles, and clearing the way, with words and blows, through the closely packed crowd. The dress of the inhabitants of Delhi is very gay. The tight fitting cassock (chupkun) is of some dark cloth or flowered cotton, and the turban and kummurbund are of scarlet or some rich colour, often fringed with gold. Sometimes Cashmeer shawls, or the imitation ones made at Delhi, are worn around the head, waist or shoulders. Some of the costumes are very rich and costly, but most of them are tawdry, and decorated with spangles and artificial jewellery. In Delhi there are a great number of " dandy Moosulmans." They are frequently sepoys, who pass their spare time as coureurs d'aventures." Their dress is as showy as their limited means will allow, and they wear a natty little skull-cap, cocked on

one side of the head, from which their long, straight, greasy hair hangs down upon their neck. Their appearance is altogether far from respectable, and they interchange salutations with the young ladies of the market, who sit at the windows of the upper stories, or parade their charms in open bailees. Now and then one may see an Afghan, a short, thick-set man, with loose grey woollen clothes, broad, heavy features, a dirty face, of the colour of leather, and brown tangled locks. He evidently looks with the utmost contempt on the unmanly foppery of the effeminate race whom his ancestors have conquered and spoiled whenever they chose; and if asked his opinion, will express it in no measured terms, and in language far different from the courtly euphemisms of the Hindoostanee. Half way down the Chandee chôk is a pretty little mosque, with three gilt domes, where, scarcely more than one hundred years ago, Nadur Shah, the Persian conqueror, sat with drawn sword, looking on while his troops sacked the city. The slaughter lasted from morning till night, and was accompanied by all the horrors of unrestrained lust, rapine and vengeance. Over a hundred thousand of the inhabitants perished, and the aqueduct in the Chandee chôk ran red with blood.

A Juggler-Poses Plastiques-Entrance to Palace-Dewán Am-Emperor's ThroneMosaics-Drawing first Blood-A Paradise on Earth-Peacock Throne-A Microcosmic View of the Mogul Empire-Shah Jehan in State-A Hundred Years Later -Native Tact-The Glory has Departed-Maharattas in the Palace-Gholam Kadur, the Rohilla, seated on the Royal Throne-Restoration of the Empire by the British -Their Majesties, and their "Particular Slaves"-The last Emperor-The last Tenants of the Dewán Khas-The Pearl Mosque-Palace Gardens-The Jumma Musjeed -View from Minár-Moosulman Worship-Feerooz's Walking Stick-Hoomaioon's Tomb-Chubootras-Peculiarities of Mahommedan Architecture-Capture of the King of Delhi.

THE next morning I had a juggler to perform for me, who did some most wonderful tricks with almost no preparation or means of deception. There came also to the bungalow some nach girls of a low class, who danced and sang-both indifferently; but afterwards they performed some feats, showing that wonderful suppleness which is so remarkable in all natives, but especially in this class. I put a four-ana bit (about as large as a dime) upon the ground. The girl then placed one foot on each side of it, and standing up, bent gradually backward until her head came between her legs; she then caught the silver piece in her eyelids and resumed the upright position. The performance was afterwards repeated, with variations, the paolee (four-ana bit) being taken up by the nostrils or ears.

Afterwards I visited the palace. I passed in my buggy through the lofty gateway and entered a small court, where I was requested to get out, as no vehicles were allowed to enter further. A number of shabby looking soldiers were lolling about. They wore a clumsily-made uniform, after the English pattern, and were Sepoys of the Emperor's army, commonly called the "Palace Guard." Captain Douglass, their com