Mikado was restored to actual authority; the feudal system which had brought about this result in its turn miraculously melted away; and after a transformation scene the like of which has never before been enacted in the history of the world, Japan found itself under something approaching to constitutional government. In the growth of popular liberty, and, concomitantly, of national prosperity, which has since invigorated Japan, the hapless sailor apprentices have borne the principal share. The lessons they learned in Gower Street in 1864 have not faded from their memory. Abandoning all notions of conquering England, they determined as far as possible to imitate her. They have introduced into Japan railways, telegraphs, a postal service, and a thorough system of education. The dream of their early youth has been realized to the extent that Japan now has a navy of first-class ships, though their guns are not loaded to keep off foreigners. On the contrary, foreigners are welcomed throughout Japan, and foreign trade flourishes at half a dozen open ports.

The policy of the present Government, of which Mr. Ito and Mr. Inouyé are the founders and the sustaining forces, is deliberately and persistently directed towards extending this

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sound and liberal movement. They are prepared to throw the whole of the country open to foreign trade, just as England is opened. But they ask that the work should be accomplished on something like the same conditions as it is rendered possible in this country. They demand that foreigners trading within the empire shall be subject to its laws, whilst they are willing to have those laws administered in the case of foreigners under conditions, as to the personnel of the tribunes, which shall secure the certainty of justice. As a preliminary to this state of things, there has lately been promulgated in Japan an adaptation of the Code Napoléon which has drawn forth encomiums from several eminent European jurists.

In addition, Japan demands some slight revision of the import duties, which, it is contended, do not, as at present imposed by treaty, leave to the Government of the country the bare means of subsistence, compelling them to make up deficiencies by increased charges upon their own people. Those treaties were exacted from an ignorant and irresolute Tycoon standing between the devil and the deep sea, having English, French, and Dutch ships thundering at the gates of Kobé, and around him the chiefs of the clans protesting

by their swords that the foreigners should gain no foothold in Japan.

No impartial mind can affirm that treaties so made and at that date are applicable to the Japan of to-day, and it is to be hoped, alike in the interests of Japan and of the commerce of the Western world, that the negotiations pending in 1884 may result in a just and equitable revision.

CHAPTER III.

BY SEA AND LAND TO KIOTO.

WE left Yokohama in the late afternoon, the bay looking more beautiful than ever in the sunlight, shining out of a sky blue as any spread over Naples. We were bound for Kioto. The ordinary way of going thither is to take a steamer to Kobé in one of the large and well-appointed Mitsu Bishi steamers, and proceed thence to Shanghai. But we resolved to go something out of the beaten track, take steamer as far as Yokkaichi, and thence across country by jinrikisha to Kioto.

The sea voyage to Yokkaichi is not unfamiliar to Japanese, but is not often taken by Europeans, with the natural consequence that there is no accommodation for them. Our steamer was an old tub of 250 tons. The saloon was approached by an uncompromising ladder, and luxury was aimed at by the disposal of sofa bunks round the stern in pleasing con

tiguity to the screw. Of course there was no stewardess, nor any regular steward that I was able to identify. The office seemed to be in commission, and when any "boy" happened to find time hang heavy on his hands he took a turn at steward's work. Our berths were small cupboards opening off the dining-room table. Each was fitted up with two narrow shelves, which I thought were for books or plates. It was presently made clear they were for us. But it did not much matter. It was rather promising in the way of fun and excitement. We had only one night to sleep here, and everything was big enough and nice enough for a twenty hours' trip in summer seas like that on which we were even now gliding.

The Foreign Minister came off in his steamlaunch to say good-bye, an unaccustomed visit which greatly fluttered the captain and crew. The captain was so much impressed that he immediately placed his berth at the disposal of the lady of our party. The berth was more commodious, having at least three inches more beam. But as the kindly offer was not accompanied by preparations for changing the bed linen, it was declined.

Before we reached the gate of the Bay of Yedo, the beauty of the scene had wondrously