reckoned; but as we had been travelling from west to east, we had gained about 24 hours, and in order to have the day of the week and month correspond to that of San Francisco, were compelled to insert an extra day; thus giving us two Sundays in succession, both dating February 10th, 1884.

CHAPTER XXXIII.

SAN FRANCISCO:

NAPA VALLEY: PETRIFIED FOREST: GEYSERS: SANTA CRUZ: MONTEREY : SANTA BARBARA LOS ANGELES: MARIPOSA BIG TREES: YOSEMITE VALLEY: CALAVERAS BIG TREES: SACRAMENTO: VIRGINIA CITY: LAKE ТАНОЕ: PUGET SOUND: PORTLAND: COLUMBIA RIVER: YELLOWSTONE PARK: SALT LAKE CITY: MT. OF THE HOLY CROSS: PIKE'S PEAK: DENVER : GREENBRIAR WHITE SULPHUR SPRINGS: LEXINGTON: NATURAL BRIDGE: LURAY: CHARLESTOWN: HARPERS FERRY.

SAN FRANCISCO, the extreme western city of the United States of America, and the most important place on the Pacific coast, has a population of 250,000 inhabitants. It is situated on the

end of a narrow peninsula six miles wide, one side of which is washed by the Pacific Ocean, and the other by the Bay of San Francisco, one of the finest harbors in the world, where the

combined fleets of the globe might ride at anchor in safety and with abundance of room.

The Golden Gate, which is the only entrance for vessels to pass into this harbor, is a narrow strait of deep water one mile in width, and the forts on either side so completely command it that the entrance of a ship could readily be prevented. The narrowness of this passage, cut through high hills, and the great depth of water, give it an artificial appearance, and it is supposed by many to have been caused by earthquakes, which are of frequent occurrence in this section.

The city is built on a number of sand hills, many of its streets being so steep that it is impossible to drive up the ascent with horses; but its system of surface railroads, propelled by cable or wire ropes laid underground, is not only very general but complete in every detail, ascending and descending the steepest grades with rapidity and safety.

San Francisco is said to be one of the wealthiest cities in the world in proportion to its population and age, having been incorporated in 1850. Those who have been successful on this coast, whether in gold or silver mines, railroads or real estate, have as a general thing, located here, and built palatial residences, many of which have cost millions of dollars; while its public buildings, theatres, and hotels compare favorably with those of any on the globe.

The main artery and business thoroughfare of the city is Market street, along which are located. the principal stores and public buildings, including the Palace Hotel, the largest caravansary in the world, accommodating over 2,000 guests; the Baldwin Hotel, comprising the prettiest theatre in the city; and the Odd Fellows' and City Halls, besides many other imposing structures.

Driving through this broad and busy thoroughfare, we stopped at Woodward's Gardens, the finest public resort of the kind on this coast, comprising within its beautiful grounds statuary, miniature lakes, and tropical plants; while its art gallery, conservatories, museums, aquarium, sealery, aviary, and zoological collections are as complete in detail as any on this continent.

Continuing from here to the Golden Gate Park with its magnificent conservatory, we drove through its broad avenues, thronged with stylish equipages, to the beach, where from the Cliff House verandah we were entertained watching the sea-lions upon the adjacent rocks, some lying. full length sunning their huge proportions, others gambolling in the water and uttering sounds resembling the barking of dogs.

some

In the centre of the city is the Chinese quarter, where crowded into four squares are 40,000 Celestials; and in visiting its Joss-houses, theatres, and opium-dens, one gets a good idea of the habits and customs of this race of people.

The city is healthy, owing to the strong southerly winds; and although the summer fogs. are objectionable, the climate is so equable that a light over-coat is comfortable the year round.

The suburban towns of Oakland, Alameda, Saucelito, and San Rafael are on the opposite side of the bay, connected with San Francisco by ferry, and contain many handsome residences.

Taking boat and rail a distance of 100 miles north, and passing through the beautiful and productive Napa Valley, where are located the Soda, and White Sulphur Springs, we stopped at Calistoga, and drove 5 miles to the Petrified Forest, in which are some 100 prostrate petrified trees; then staging for several hours over mountains and through romantic ravines, we arrived at the Devil's Cañon, where are located the Geyser Springs. These wonders of nature in the midst of a ravine, consist of a series of boiling and cold springs of black, yellow, white, and red water; some of which bubble up and send forth steam, hot water and gravel high in the air.

The favorite and most accessible sea-side resorts are Santa Cruz and Monterey; the former having magnificent surf-bathing, while the latter has an extensive and delightful hotel called the Del Monte, situated in the midst of a large park, containing a thick growth of cedars and tropical plants and flowers, with artificial lakes.

and fountains. Here are to be found entertainments of every conceivable variety-lawn-tennis, croquet, bowling, boating, and driving the most popular road being a twelve-mile drive that intersects the forest and skirts the coast, affording magnificent views of the ocean. One of the principal attractions of Del Monte is the four immense swimming-tanks inclosed under a glass roof, and filled with salt water heated at different temperatures to accommodate all ages and both

sexes.

Leaving Monterey by steamer we followed the coast a distance of 275 miles south to Santa Barbara, a town of 6,000 inhabitants, lying in a sheltered nook, shut in by high mountain ranges, and enjoying a dry and mild climate. Its population is largely composed of people from the Eastern States seeking health and a warm climate, and the place has a select and refined society.

Continuing our journey by steamer 75 miles further south we arrived at Los Angeles, or "city of Angels," a prosperous and flourishing town, and whose suburban places of resort such as Santa Monica, Pasadena, and Sierra Madre Villa located among the vineyards, orange, lemon and olive groves, which thrive luxuriantly in this section, render a winter sojourn delightful, and are frequented by large numbers of Eastern visitors.

Returning north from Los Angeles by rail we stopped at Madeira, where we took stage, and