an audience with his holiness Pope Leo XIII. The stipulated written requirements of toilet were, for gentlemen, full dress, for ladies, black, with lace mantillas of the same sombre hue covering the head.

Arriving at the Vatican we passed the Swiss Guard, in their gay striped uniforms, and were ushered by attendants in red satin and kneebreeches through several apartments until we reached the one in which we were left to await the entrance of the Pope. As he entered, surrounded by his cardinals, all present knelt, comformably to etiquette, while he passed around the circle laying his hand in blessing upon the bowed head of each of his visitors. The more devout kissing his foot and the hem of his garment. Pope Leo XIII. is a man of 70, tall, slender, and very frail, so weak as to be unable to walk without assistance.

We also witnessed the Carnival in Rome which begins several days before the commencement of Lent. The balconies on the Corso were decorated with bright-colored bunting, and thronged with grotesquely-costumed masqueraders. Certain days are allotted for the throwing of flowers and confetti, but horse-racing down the Corso being now abandoned, this festival has lost much of its zest, and though mask balls take place every night, and other amusements are indulged in, the Carnival is altogether inferior to that of many other cities.

The Appian way, which extends from Rome to Brindisi, was first made in 312 B. C., by Appius Claudius. It was bordered with temples, villas, and tombs, for it was the custom of the Romans to bury their dead on either side of the principal roads leading from the city. The monuments yet remaining are the Columbraria, or Pagan Sepulchre, which is an underground chamber with niches in the walls where were placed the cinerary urns; the tomb of the Scipios, and that of Caecelia Metella, daughter of Crassus. On the Via Appia are also the Circus Maximus, where the chariot races occurred, and the aqueducts of Claudius and Marcia.

Tivoli is a Sabine town nestling at the foot of the mountains. Near it are the romantic villages of Santangelo and Monticelli, and en route from Rome are passed the camping ground of Hannibal; Palatio, where Lucretia killed herself, unable to survive her dishonor, and Gabbi, which was taken by the Romans under Tarquin through the artifices of his son Sextus.

Hadrian's Villa, on the slopes of Tivoli, once covered an area of several square miles. Its magnificent grounds unequalled in the Roman Empire, were designed by Hadrian to combine models of all that had most pleased him during his travels; accordingly they comprised palaces, temples, theatres, circuses, and many of the finest specimens of statuary. This mundane paradise

was destroyed by the Goths in the 6th century, and many of the finest of the antique statues were uncovered from beneath these ruins.

CHAPTER XVIII.

NAPLES: VESUVIUS: HERCULANEUM: POMPEII: CASTELLAMARE SORRENTO: CAPRI : CASERTA: BRIN

DISI.

NAPLES, which was founded by a Greek colony 1,000 years B. C., has 450,000 inhabitants, and though prettily situated on the curves of the bay which bears the same name, is not so fascinating that one would wish to "see Naples and die." Approaching from the sea, the city at a distance, stretching lazily down to the blue waters, with the old fortress of St. Elmo towering in the background and mighty Vesuvius standing sentinel, as it has stood since the beginning of time, is extremely picturesque, but on closer view the pleasing illusion is dispelled. The streets, with few exceptions, are narrow and filthy; the houses are of several stories and swarming with occupantsmany families huddled under one roof-poor, ragged, and uncleanly.

The Neapolitans as a class are apparently devoid of feeling, as is evidenced by their cruelty to

their beasts of burden; a characteristic feature being their country wagons loaded with from twenty to thirty people and drawn by one poor, staggering animal.

A strange sight witnessed on the streets of Naples is a funeral procession. The coffin-the corpse often exposed to view is borne on an open bier by monks of the order of Misericorde concealed underneath the velvet pall, while preceding and following it are others bearing lighted candles, and completely enveloped in white garments in which are small openings for the eyes.

This city is celebrated for its manufacture of corals, shell, and maccaroni; the latter is a favorite article of diet with the lazzaroni who may be seen swallowing it by the yard, as they lounge about the streets.

The fashionable drive extends for several miles along the bay, and is bordered on one side by the National Park; here large crowds congregate in the cool of the evening to admire the views and enjoy the refreshing breeze from the sea.

In Naples are the fine marble statue of Dante, and the equestrian figures, in bronze, of Charles III. and of Ferdinand I.

The Royal Palace is of no special interest, but adjoining it is the Theatre of San Carlo, at the entrance of which are the bronze horses presented by the Emperor Nicholas of Russia.

The Castle of St. Elmo is built on a high hill overlooking the city. It was erected by Robert the Wise in 1343, and its numerous historic reminiscences of love and daring render it an object of interest to the romantically inclined.

The Cathedral is supposed to occupy the site of the Temple of Apollo, and contains the tombs of Charles I. of Anjou, and of Charles Martel and his wife Clementina of Hapsburg.

The Grotto of Posilippo is an old Roman tunnel 750 yards long and 60 feet high, on the road between Naples and Puteoli. Over the entrance of this tunnel is the tomb of Virgil-a chamber containing 10 niches for cinerary urns, that of Virgil having once, it is said, occupied the centre of the sepulchre.

The National Museum of Naples is interesting and extensive, comprising large collections of paintings, mosaics, statues, frescoes, and inscriptions, many of which were found in the excavations made in Herculaneum and Pompeii. Here are the Farnese Bull, considered one of the finest groups of ancient art; the Psyche of Capua— which inspired Bulwer's conception of Ione ;—the Dancing Faun; a mosaic pavement bearing the figure of a dog, from the house of Glaucus; shopsigns from Pompeii; and the marble pillar which stood in its forum, upon which is a bronze plate that once served as a bulletin board; also the remains of fruit, milk, loaves of bread, a variety of