Etymology of Benares.

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through it on business, have taken the trouble to explore the city,—these even probably seeking little acquaintance with its history. The facilities now afforded by the rail, however, cannot fail to attract a large number of visitors to the place; and it may soon be considered as necessary to "do Benares as it now is Agra and Delhi.

General Cunningham, in his Archæological Survey Report, published by the Asiatic Society of Bengal, thus accurately describes the situation of Benares, and furnishes the etymology of the name by which it is universally known. He says:-"The city of Benares is situated on the left bank of the Ganges. The points of the junction of both streams with the Ganges are considered particularly holy, and, accordingly, temples have been erected both at Barna Saugaur, below the city, and at Así Saugaur, above the city. From the joint names of these two streams, which bound the city to the north and south, the Brahmins derive Varanasi, which is said to be the Sanscrit form of the name of Benares. But the more usual derivative amongst the common people is from Rajah Banar, who is said to have rebuilt the city about 800 years ago.

Contrary to what is found elsewhere in India,

the lapse of time and the influx of European civilization seem in no sense to have altered the condition of things existing at the time Benares was ceded to us,-in 1755. Superstition and bigotry of the intensest kind still reign supreme; and, judging from the number of temples everywhere abounding, the innumerable attendant priests and ever-present devotees, one might presume that the business of the inhabitants was little else than one continued poojah to idolatry. Indeed, a recent writer in the Calcutta Review-one well versed in his subject, says: "The love for idolatry is so deep-seated and intense in the breast of the Hindu, that it is a common thing for both men and women to amuse themselves, with a pious intent, with manufacturing little gods from mud or clay, and after paying divine honours to them (and that too with the same profound reverence which they display in their devotions before the well-known deities of the temples), to throw them away.'

This city presents a very imposing appearance from the Raj Ghat Railway Station, where the whole may be taken in at a view. It is only on approaching the city over the bridge of boats that a correct estimate may be formed of its distinctive features, its ghauts, temples,

Benares

River-front.

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and massive edifices, some even six or seven stories high; whilst one object above all stands out amongst the pile upon pile of buildingsthe Great Mosque of Aurungzebe, with its stately minarets, marking, as it were, for all time, the triumph of the religion of the Crescent over the despised and debasing superstitions of an abject and prostrate people.

The illustration facing this page is from the pencil of a native artist, and although it fails to give as imposing and comprehensive a view of the river-face of the town as some I have seen, I have selected it in preference to a more artistically rendered production, because it is the work of a native. The listless laziness of the groups in the foreground is admirably portrayed, as also the curious sitting posture so peculiar to the native of India. A little to the right of the drawing, in very bad perspective, rises the lofty ascent of the Madhoray Ghat, the hundred steps of which are worn into holes and curves by the feet of the many thousands who, for centuries past, have ascended and descended to and from the sacred stream which turbidly flows at foot.

To see the city, the stranger has but one of three methods before him, if he has little time on his hands; but if he has that to spare, he