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CHAPTER XII. Herrmannstadt .

CHAPTER XIII. Highland life in Transylvania-The Rothenthurm
Pass-Heldau-Primitive Saxon manners and customs
CHAPTER XIV. A visit to the scene of Bem's principal opera-
tions-Schässburg-Christmas festivities-Magyars-Saxons-
Bem's habits-Bem's campaigns

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CHAPTER XV. The Szeklers-Udvarhely-The Szekler constitution-Keresthur-Unitareats-Szekler national assembly. CHAPTER XVI. Maros-Vasarhely-Appearance of the town-Teleki library-Learned Szekler-National fanaticism-Judicial corruption

CHAPTER XVII. Clausenburg-Golden river-Description of Clau-
senburg-The aristocracy-Their losses-General Urban—
English officer-Political relations

CHAPTER XVIII. Clausenburg continued - Mr. Paget - Clausen-
burg studies-The Lutheran pastor-The death of Roth-
Concluding political reflections-The future government of
Transylvania

CHAPTER XIX. Grosswardein-The defile of Csucsa-Intense cold
-Description of Grosswardein-Carnival ball-Liberty and
Nationality-The Magyar arsenal-Colonisation of Hungary.
CHAPTER XX. The Huns in Hungary.

CHAPTER XXI. The Asiatic inundations-Grosswardein in the

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sidered with reference to strategy

CHAPTER XXVI. Comorn and the fortresses of Hungary con

CHAPTER XXVII. Pressburg

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BOOK IV. THE BULGARIAN, THE TURK, AND THE GERMAN.

CHAPTER I. The diplomatic crisis before the war . .

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CHAPTER XIV.

CHAPTER XV.

A Balance sheet of Turkish strength and weakness
Return home by Berlin

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BOOK III.

THE GOTH AND THE HUN.

CHAPTER I.

WAR

DEPARTURE FROM ENGLAND CLOSE OF HUNGARIAN -ARRIVAL AT COMORN-THE HUNTING BOX-COUNT AND COUNTESS NUGENT GENERAL GRABBE -LIFE IN THE AUSTRIAN CAMP.

It was one morning shortly after the news had arrived in England of the surrender of Georgey at Vilagos, that I found myself in the railway train scouring along the plains of Moravia; and, as I saw the sun on my left rising behind the range of the Carpathians, that here separate Hungary from Austria, I thought even railway pace scarce quick enough to carry me into that kingdom which had attracted the attention of all Europe to her ensanguined plains. At length the mountains on the south of the Danube, which are the last spurs of the Styrian Alps, rose out of the horizon, and as we shot over the historic fields of Wagram, where the bones of furious Frank and fiery Hun have reposed together since 1809, I once more saw the pointed spire of ancient St. Stephen's arising above the dense woods of the Prater; and traversing a removeable wooden bridge, (denoting the contingency of warlike strategy, which with our insular security never enters

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into the calculation of the British civil engineer,) I saw the wide waters of the Danube rolling to the eastward.

Arrived at Vienna, I learned that all active operations in Hungary were considered as concluded; but Comorn still held out; and, as it was blockaded by a force of sixty thousand men, I made all speed to the Austrian and Russian camp in order to see in a state of concentration the last large body of troops on active service before their final dispersion. I had frequently seen on former occasions in Italy and elsewhere, very large reviews and concentrations of Austrian troops; but as the armies of Russia had not seen service beyond the limits of their own empire and Turkey in Europe, in any portion of this continent since 1815, I felt much interested in having at the same time, an opportunity of seeing something of a military school, to the improvement of which a powerful and energetic. monarch with vast resources at his command, had devoted so much of his time, talents, and attention, so as to make it almost the business of his life.

It was about noon that a steamer filled with stores for the blockading army, in which I had embarked with my accomplished and amiable fellow-traveller Sir W-—-R-, arrived at a wide flat grass plain, between Comorn and the middle of the Raab river on our way to Acs, which was the head quarters of the blockading force under General, now Field Marshal Nugent. On landing, the scene in its general aspect was something like that of a race-ground; not a house to be seen, but countless tents, waggons, horses piquetted, and booths for the sale of necessaries; the day was breezy, and white fleecy clouds were flying across the face of a clear sky, so that it was just such a scene as Wouvermans, had he risen from his grave, could have depicted with his felicitous clearness, spirit, and variety of grouping.

Every one was so busied with his own affairs, that it may well be believed it was some little time before we could get under weigh; so, leaving my companion to stand

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