IN In a May morninge. [Page 383 of MS.] a may morning I mett a sweet nursse with a babe in her armes, sweetly cold busse. I wold to god itt were mine! I shold be glad ont! ffor it was a merry mumping thing, who ere was dad ont. I saluted her kindlye, & to her I sayd, "god morrow, sweet honye, and you be a mayd; "The dad of my child, Sir, I doe not well know, from one to the other; still I wold be rid ont." "Ile take itt in mine armes, & wislye Ile worke, There came a kind Scot[c]hman whose name is not sayes hee to this sweet hart, "this babye is mine owne; come bind it vpon my backe; Ione shall be rid ont; A glance, a sly look-a word still used in Northamptonshire.-P. 24 28 Now, nay! now, nay!" shee sayes, soe itt may The girl not bee! your looke & his countenance doe not agree; for had hee beene sike a swayne, I had neere been great ont; for hee was a blythe young man that was the right "his lippes like the rubye, his cheekes like the rose, "Ile trauell through England & Scottland soe wyde, Ile bind itt vpon my backe, Ile not be ryd ont refused him he never got it. A rubylipped young man was the true father, and she'd tramp over England and Scotland 32 vntill I haue found out the man thats the right to find him 36 dad ont. "Ile husse1 itt, Ile busse itt, Ile lapp itt in say2; Ile bind itt vpon my backe, Ile not be ridde ont and marry him. 40 dad ont. "And thus to conclude, thoe itt ffall to my Lott to ffind a dad ffor my barne 3 that I cannott; if an englishman gett a child, & wold be ridd ont, But if she couldn't find him, why then she'd fall back on the let him bring it to Scot[c]hman, & heele be the dad Scotchman. ont." 1 hush.-F. 2 silk.-F. 3 bairn, child.-P. The Turk in Linen. [Page 383 of MS.] THIS is the eleventh song in Thomas Heywood's Rape of Lucrece, 1st ed. 1608. It was printed by Mr. Fairholt from the fifth edition, 1638, in his Satirical Songs and Poems on Costume, for the Percy Society, 1849, p. 141-2, but he modernised the spelling. "English Mutability in Dress" is the title that Mr. Fairholt gives the song, and he prints the first stanza of it, which our copy in the Folio omits. This stanza in the earliest and titleless copy of the play in the British Museum-which I suppose to be the edition of 1608, and the readings of which in the notes below are signed B.M.-runs thus: The Spaniard loues his ancient slop, The Lumbard, his Venetian,' And some, like breech-lesse women goe: The Russe, Turke, Iew, and Grecian; The threysly' Frenchman weares small wast, The Dutch his belly boasteth; The Englishman is for them all, And for each fashion coasteth. In illustration of this Mr. Fairholt aptly quotes the wellknown passages from Andrew Borde and Coryat about the Englishman's changeableness in dress. The latter says, "We weare more fantastical fashions than any nation under the sun, the French only excepted [see 1. 6 of our poem]; which hath A kind of hose or breeches described by Stubbes. See the word in Nares.-F. 2 thrifty.-Fairholt. The fourth and fifth editions both read threysly. ? from A.-S. bras, a hem, fringe-Somner. Or breahs, rottenness-Lye.-F. given occasion to the Venetian, and other Italians, to brand the Englishman with a notable mark of levity, by painting him stark naked, with a pair of shears in his hand, making his fashion of attire according to the vain conception of his brainsick head, not to comeliness and decorum." Possibly this copy in the Folio is from one of those of which Heywood complains in his To the Reader : ".. some of my plaies haue (vnknowne to me, and without any of my direction) accidentally come into the Printers hands, and therefore so corrupt and mangled (coppied only by the eare) that I haue bin as vnable to know them as a-shamed to chalenge them. This therefore I was the willinger to furnish out in his natiue habit: first being by consent, next because the rest haue been so wronged in being publisht in such sauadge and ragged garments: accept it courteous Gentlemen, and prooue as fauorable Readers as we haue found you gratious Auditors. Yours T. H." THE: turke in Linen1 wrapps his head, the persian his in 2 lawne tooe, be ffelt, 8 giue me the English beuer.5 Linem in the MS.-F. 2 MS. in his ;-his in, B.M.-F. 3 Russe.-B.M. 4 Fealts.-B.M. 5 Fairholt says that beaver hats appear to have been first imported from Flanders. Cost. in England, p. 490. Stubbes, 1583, that they "were fetched from beyond the seas, from whence a great sort of other vanities do come besides." In a satiric ballad on the knights of £40 per annum made by James I. (in Wit and Wisdom, Shaksp. Soc. 1846, p. 146-7) the shepherds are jestingly told to Above all other felts, Russian, Spanish, French, give me the English beaver! Cover your coxcombs with three-pound "Beaver hats were expensive articles of * Mr. Hunter's copy reads tenpenny.-Halliwell. The German loues his connye well,1 some loue the rough, & some the smooth, some great, & other small thinge 1; but oh, your English Licorish man,5 he loues to deale in all thinges! The Rush drinkes Quash6; Duche, lubickes beere,7 conny-wool.-B.M. In another poem in the same volume, at p. 162, we readHere is an English conny furr ! Rushia hath no such stuffe, The Burse of Reformation. ? For the double entendre of the black beaver, compare 1. 32 of Off alle the seaes below.-F. 2 Shagge-too.-B.M. 3 Munmouth.-B.M. A cut of the Monmouth cap is given on p. 502 of Fairholt's Costume in England, 1860, and on p. 115 of the Percy Society's Satirical Songs and Poems on Costume, and it is mentioned twice in the "Ballad of the Caps," which Mr. Fairholt places at the end of the reign of Elizabeth, and which is found in Sportive Wit, 1656; D'Urfey's Wit and Mirth, 1719-20, &c. The Monmouth-cap, the saylors thrum... The souldiers that the Monmouth wear. From Cleveland's Square-Cap for me, the cap seems to have been made of plush And first, for the plush-sake, the Monmouth-cap comes. 11 (Sat. Songs, 134.) It was worn by sailors, as Mr. Fairholt |