which each individual, from the prince to the pauper, religiously adorns his abode, whether yâmen, private residence, hong, or shop, inside and outside. These bright papers frequently bear congratulatory inscriptions or signs composed ef three or four characters inscribed in black or vermilion. During this festive season no house would be complete, no household happy, without these garish decorations, which flutter from every post, shutter, lintel, door, implement, and carriage; while every conceivable crevice and corner holds a small sheaf of burning "joss sticks," whose fumes of sandalwood and garoo pervade each inhabited place.

At midnight on New Year's Eve family prayers are said, all members being present, the women included. Afterwards they attend at the temple, to make an offering to the gods of long coloured candles and gilded paper-the latter supposed to represent sycee and gold-which is burned in a large brass vessel, varying in size according to the distinction and preponderance of the god invoked; the Yeuk Wang, or creator of heaven and earth, coming first. Should the ashes of this gilded paper be of a white colour, it portends luck; if black, the reverse. And if any of the wicks of the lighted sacrificial candles be tipped with a bright spark, or should a pair of them burn out simultaneously, it is equally predictive of good fortune.

At dawn of day, on New Year's morning, the pleasure-seeking Celestial, if he has not been playing cards and drinking libations of samshoo all night, as is generally the custom, rises with a light heart and elastic step, and in the happy expectation of much pleasure dons his best garments, and, if an official, his elaborate robes of office, and his red, blue, or white buttoned hat, perhaps also adorned with a single or double peacock's feather (according to rank). With a packet of large red-coloured visiting cards (size, six inches by four) in his hand-or, if a mandarin, in the hands of his tingchai or messenger-he sets out, accompanied by his sons, if blessed with any, to pay his respects to his relations and friends, leaving one of the male members of his family at home to in turn receive and entertain expected visitors.

"Go-ne far choi! go-ne far choi!" (Get rich! get rich!) is the greeting he gives and receives while going through the elaborate

forms of koutowing, prescribed by the strict laws of etiquette so characteristic of his dignified but courteous, race.

On his being seated, the host brings forth a round, lacquer tray with partitions containing various sweetmeats, preserved fruit, raisins, almonds, dried laichees, and melon seeds. Then the members of the family offer their little presents of fruit and cakes, which are always accompanied by a small red paper packet containing a piece of silver and a few copper cash, which is kept by the recipient throughout the year, for good luck.

On this auspicious day Chinese ladies and gentlemen never comb their hair, nor the latter shave. Floors are not allowed to be swept, or even a broom to be used. Should they happen to do so, the new year would, according to their belief, be in consequence an unlucky one.

It is indeed a noisy, merry time-the China New Year; and no one enjoys his holiday better or more thoroughly than the hard-working "Celestial," who hoards up his few hard-earned cash day by day throughout the year; until the days grow into months and the cash into dollars, and the great time once more comes round when he will spend them like a lord.

X.—ABOARD THE "FUNG SHUN."

ΟΝ.

N the 1st of October, 1888, I left Shanghai for the more northern treaty port of Chefoo, of late years the sanitarium of the Protestant Missions in North China, which is situated in the Gulf of Pechili, on the northern side of the Shantung Promontory, in lat. 37° 33" 20' N., and 121° 02" E.

It was a splendid day, and a nice exhilarating breeze from the northward cooled the atmosphere. After tiffin, I hired a fly and drove along the Bund to the C.M.S.N. Co's offices, and booked my passage in the "Fung-Shun," which I was informed would not leave before five o'clock. I then told the driver to turn up the Maloo; and away we rattled, for indeed those hired chariots. do make a great clamour which is obnoxious to persons of a retiring disposition, but somewhat beneficial and indispensable to the swarms of buzzing brokers who are thus advertised and somewhat previously announced to the banks and hongs by the bone-shaking rattle of the dislocated fly. The Maloo, or Nankin Road, crosses the Settlement from east to west, and divides it into two nearly equal parts. The first half is lined on either side with European shops, but the western half is exclusively Chinese; the broad 60ft. road being lined on both sides with two-storied wooden houses, built in 1861 and 1863 to accommodate the everincreasing population. This paved thoroughfare terminates at a wooden bridge spanning the Defence Creek, which forms the western boundary of the Settlement. To the left lies the Racecourse and Recreation Ground, a broad expanse of level grassy ground, continually kept in order by a staff of Chinese gardeners.