I lit a cigar, and sauntered forth in quest of diversion and amusement.

Out from some dark corner came my friend, the ricksha-man, who politely motioned me to be seated. I did so, and once more found myself careering along in a dangerously reckless manner. On gaining the Broadway Road, he turned to the left, resuming our original course, and climbed the arched bridge that spans the Soochow Creek, which marks the boundary of the American concession in Hongkew, separating it from the English settlement, and wends its devious way to the far-famed city of Soochow which I shall visit with the reader at a later period.

As we gained the top of the bridge a pretty sight unfolded itself and then enfolded us. Off went the ricksha down the incline at a breakneck pace. I held on to the frail sides of the swaying vehicle with considerable interest, expecting every moment to be precipitated into the muddy creek or shot into the air to alight among the topmost branches of the beautiful trees that appeared on either side, and which I was quite unable to adequately appreciate and admire owing to the suddenness of my admission. Not until my frisky steed moderated his pace did I recover my presence of mind sufficiently to be conscious of the sublimity of the scene, or of the fragrance of the air which had become redolent with the perfume of rare tropical plants and flowers, diffused by gentle airs, which made the evening agreeable after the sultriness of day.

I had heard that the Town Band would play in the gardens at 9 p.m.; so, as it was not yet time, I let my ricksha coolie continue his somewhat impetuous course through the English settlement.

On the right-hand side, at the foot of the bridge, and at the commencement of the Bund, lay the enclosure of the British Consulate, which is separated from the roadway by a low wall, and, from the Vice Consul's and Interpreter's private residences, by a shrubbery and lawn. The extensive grounds which surround it are carefully kept and artistically laid out, and the lawn is much patronised by tennis players.

Keeping along the Bund in a southernly direction, we passed

H

a long range of magnificent buildings occupied by Messrs. Siemssen, Jardine Matheson, Butterfield and Swire, and other notable mercantile firms, not forgetting the splendid offices of the P. and O. Company. In the centre of these European houses the fantastic roofs and curved gables of the Custom House-then occupying an ancient Chinese temple-rose up in startling though stately comparison from amongst them, and improved the imposing frontage which the English houses make.

At the southern extremity of this settlement, overlooking the river, and the opposite shore of Pootung, and almost on the bank of the Yang-king-Pang Creek, which marks the commencement of the French Concession, stands the pretentious four-storied English Club, looming above its neighbours. This was erected at a cost of 121,000 taels by a body of ambitious shareholders in the prosperous years of 1863-64, and upon whose spacious verandah, and in whose stately halls the élite of this "Model Settlement" meet to enjoy the social pleasures good company ever affords.

I was not a little surprised to see numbers of smart carriages, landaus, victorias, broughams, dog-carts, and other fashionable. equipages, with fine, gaily caparisoned horses, darting to and fro along the smooth and spacious roads. Some were occupied by wealthy merchant princes, Government officials, or their stately ladies, and others by the prettiest of "Celestial" demoiselles, with their dark almond eyes which hardly deign to notice you while passing swiftly by like a cloud of gorgeous butterflies, in embroidered silk attire.

Having seen almost sufficient for one night, and not wishing to enter the gloomy precincts of the French Concession, with its unpretentious buildings of miscellaneous architecture and uncertain date, which look cheerlessly out upon a dismal avenue of scraggy trees, beneath whose meagre shade a few world-forgotten gensd'armes saunter about in comparative exile, no doubt often wishing themselves home once more in far-off "La Belle France"-I told my humble conveyer to take me back. He did so, turning like a tired hack, and making a final bolt for home.

When we arrived at the gardens, however, I paid him off and entered by a winding path through the shrubbery. On gaining the

centre of the grounds, upon whose oval, sloping lawn the bandstand is situated, I found, to my surprise, that one of the "boys" from the hotel was patiently awaiting my arrival with a long cane chair. Taking a seat like the rest, I lay back smoking a cigar, enjoying the somewhat cool night air, and listening to the band, which was discoursing some very pleasing selections.

From my position I commanded a good view of the river Huang-pu, which ran close past the east bank of the garden, and the moon was high in the heavens, shining gladly down on the pleasant and not unrustic scene.

It was indeed a pretty sight: the calm, shadowy waters, and the picturesque gardens, bathed in the soft light, and adorned, not only by exquisite tropical plants and flowers, but also by numbers of fair and faultlessly-dressed ladies, sauntering to and fro in their varied costumes between the shady groves, where the fragrant air and the whisper of subdued voices were highly suggestive of a "Midsummer night's dream," and the meeting of the fairies, when Cupid's shaft is silently "quenched in the chaste beams of the watery moon," or launched at the heart of some fair Helena with delightful precision which imbues her with love immortal, aud adorns those lily-blossom cheeks with the first blush of maiden joy-so highly significant of an invitation to "ask Papa" or some other near and dear guardian who lives in this matter-of-fact age, and wears the orthodox "frills" so hurtful and injurious to love's young summer dream.