of these so-called "beachcombers" that I consider it is quite time. that something is done for them. Under the present regime in our colonies, if a man runs away from his ship, or fails to leave in the one selected for him, he is cast out of the Sailors Home to beg, be imprisoned-or die in the gutters-perhaps even deprived of the last few charitable offices extended by all nations and people to those who are passing "beyond the shadow."

XXVI. A VISIT TO CANTON.

S the reader may require a change of air after the last somewhat melancholy chapter, and as almost everybody who goes to China makes a point of visiting Canton, I propose making a trip there by the pleasantest route, that is by water.

At half.past seven a. m., after a light breakfast of frog-curry— which is considered a delicacy out there-flavoured with excellent Penang chutney, we hurry off to the Praya to catch the eight o'clock boat. If we missed that we should have to wait until 5 p. m., as only two (Canton) steamers leave Hongkong daily.

We soon catch sight of the Hongkong and Macao Steamship Company's swift boat. It is a yellowish coloured American built vessel which looks like a floating three-storyed house with numerous doors and windows reaching the entire length of the ship. Protruding above the upper deck is a huge crank somewhat resembling in shape a gigantic hand-pump.

A continuous stream of intending passengers passes up the gangway; and as we gain the crowded deck our nose is assailed by a variety of uncommon odours-uncommon I say because they are peculiarly "Celestial," or in other words confined to the peoples and places of the "Celestial Empire"-combining a selection of noisome scents distilled from hay-like tobacco, opium, unwashed humanity, garlic, dried seaweed, samshoo, fish and divers other commodities of daily life. Each Chinese passenger carries a netted basket filled with old pots, pans, bowls, cups, remnants of the last meal and all manner of garbage-not forgetting a small stone or wooden pillow somewhat similar in shape and size

to a brick. This article is always placed ready for immediate use; for directly John has completed his arrangements for the passage he spreads his mat on the deck and lies down, resting his neck upon this hard but serviceable pillow.

A Chinaman never leaves anything behind him when changing his residence: only that which can he removed by hard scrubbing-not even a broken bottle or pot. He crams them in among his personal effects. Before leaving he actually lifts the dirty earthenware rice-pot off the stove, with a crust of burnt rice lining the inside, and carefully deposits it among his other goods and chattels.

Now the whistle sounds and the huge crank above us begins to move up and down. The paddles revolve and the vessel slowly leaves the wharf. Making our way to the upper-deck we pass out of the confusion and smell to quietude, cleanliness and freshair. On the saloon deck we meet the skipper who is sure to be a jolly good fellow who insists upon our having a "whisky-andsoda" with him-or a "peg" which means the same or similar refreshment.

The following extract, written many years ago, will give the reader a good idea of the scenery met with during a river journey to Canton.

"On leaving Hongkong the steamer threads its way through the shipping, presenting to the passengers a capital panoramic view of the terraced city of Victoria, daily climbing higher up the sides of the Peak, until, shortly before reaching the extreme western limit of the Island, its course is directed towards the narrow channel, between the western end of the Island of Lam Tao and a small islet, which gives access to the mouth of the Canton River. The scenery at this point is well worth studying. The harbour of Hongkong, with its numerous beauties, and the broad expanse of isle-dotted sea beyond, are left astern, whilst the steamer glides in water usually of glassy smoothness between the rocky shores of the narrow channel, upon which the only sign of life or population is perhaps a solitary fisherman hauling his curiously constructed lever-net to the bank, or the crew of a passing boat offering the sacrifice of lighted joss-paper to a tiny shrine erected on the jutting angle of the rock.