CONTENTS. Saint George, on Occasion of its Festival-Moonlight Scene from the Heights of Mitzikeli Anecdote of Mustafa-Scene with the Hegumenos--Greek Convents and Caloyers-Last In- Departure from Ioannina---Cassopaa---Route to Paramithia---Grecian Spring---Vlakiote Shep- herds---Pass of Eleftherochori---Plain of Paramithia---City---Visit from the Primate and Bishop---Ascent to the Castle---Route along the Plain to Glyky---Plutonian Temple---Dis- trict of Aidonati---San Donato and the Dragon---Monastery of Glyky---Water of the Acheron --Fortress of Glyky and its Albanian Commander---Excursion over the Plain of Phanari--- Village of Potamia---River Cocytus---Convent of St. George---Monastery of St. John, on the Site of the ancient Necyomantéum---Greek Papas---Ruins of Cichyrus or Ephyre in the District Elaiatis---Theseus and Pirithous---Acherusian Lake---Malaria of the Plain ---Conjectures on its Mythology---Ancient City of Buchetium---Return to Glyky---Sleep under the Tent, surrounded by Albanian Palikars ---Fine Night-scene---Poetical Address to the Acheron-Curious Dream of the Author's-Ascent up the Pass of Glyky-Arrival at the Vizir's great Fortress of Kiaffa-Salute from the Fort---Scenery described---Adventure of the Author---Suicide committed by an Albanian Palikar---Ceremonies before Interment--- Ascent to the highest Summit of the Suliot Mountains---Grand Panoramic View Departure from Suli---District called Laka---Forests of Oaks in the Route to Lelevo---Fire-flies ---Route to Castri---Ruins---Albanian Wedding---Route to the Village of St. George--- Enormous Plane Trees---River of Luro---Description of the great Aqueduct---Route to Eleftherochori---Bridge of the Pasheena---Greek Monastery---Route through the Woods of Arta---Guard of Albanian Peasantry---Dogana and Canal of Luro---Castle of Rogous--- Serpents---Cangià---Traces of the Aqueduct---Luro---Arrival at Camarina---Captain Gian- naki---Visit to the ancient Ruins at Rhiniassa---Cyclopéan Walls, Citadel, Theatre, Plan of the City, &c.---Route through Nicopolis to Prevesa---Visit to Ali Pasha's Frigate---Punta and Fortress---Excursions to Nicopolis and Santa Maura---Difficulty in procuring Means of Departure from Prevesa---Porto Phanari---Arrival at Parga---Description of its Site, &c.---Cha- racter of the People---Historical Details of Parga---Conduct of the Russian Cabinet---Walk in the Environs---Departure to Paxo---Description of that Island---Ancient Legend---Sail through the Channel of Corfu---Coast of Epirus---Acroceraunian Mountains---Celebration vii PAGE of the King's Birthday on the little Isle of Marlera---Tent Scene---Reflections thereon--- Cross the Adriatic---Coast of Italy---Ruins of Egnatia---Bari---Barbary Corsair---Bar- Release from Quarantine---Description of Barletta--Excursion to the Site of Canna-Cannosa--- Church of St. Sabinus---Sepulchre of Bohemond---Ancient Tomb, Armour, and Vases dis- covered in an Excavation---Curious Mistake made by the Author and his Friend---Departure for Naples--Banditti---Ponte di Bovino--Settlements of Albanians---Naples---Rome--Flo- rence-Passage over the Alps-Lyons-Paris-Arrival in England--Conclusion... TRAVELS, &c. &c. CHAPTER I. Difficulty of procuring Historical Records for a History of IoanninaCursory View of the different Nations who have inhabited Epirus-Conjectures on the Origin of Ioannina-Its History in the Middle AgesIts Capture by the Turks-Story of Dionysius the Skelosophist-Present Condition of Ioannina in Public Buildings, Schools, &c.-Commerce -Produce of its Soil-Food of the Inhabitants-Climate-DiseasesCruel Instance of Ali Pasha's Tyranny. I HOPE I shall not act contrary to the reader's inclination by commencing this volume with a few historical details respecting the city in which we at this time resided; especially since it has been hitherto very slightly noticed by travellers. Indeed the difficulty of collecting any accurate information respecting it is very great, since neither in its origin, nor in its early progress towards grandeur, was it of consequence enough to engage the particular attention of historians: they merely mention it casually, and in a very unsatisfactory manner. Many historical documents however are said to have once existed in the archives of Ioannina; but I was informed that all or greatest part of these had been destroyed by Mahomet Effendi, Ali's prime minister, to shew his sovereign contempt for the literature of the Franks. I paid a visit to this extraordinary character for the purpose of rescuing, if 2 VIEW OF THE DIFFERENT NATIONS possible, some of these records from destruction, but he put me off with a declaration that he had none at all in his possession: the vizir himself had no better success, although he condescended to make an application to the minister in my behalf. Just before we left Ioannina however I was fortunate enough to procure a considerable number of extracts relating to its annals which had been copied at various times by a very learned and respectable Greek gentleman, before the originals came into the possession of Mahomet: of these I shall make considerable use in the latter part of the present memoir. Before however we enter upon the particular history of this city, it will be right to advert, as briefly as is consistent with the connexion of events, to the various tribes who have acted a part upon the theatre in which it is situated. In very early ages Epirus was inhabited, as I have before observed, by fourteen semibarbarous nations, intermingled with many Grecian colonies. North of these lay the still more rude and savage Illyrians, with whom the Epirotic tribes became insensibly intermingled*. They were long defended from invaders not more by their own valour than by the lofty chains of mountains that intersect their rugged country, and prevented the Greeks from subduing them. In process of time the Molossi first emerged from the state of surrounding barbarism: Tharyps, their patriotic prince, improved both the manners and the language of this nation; Philip king of Macedonia raised them into notice by his union with Olympias, sister of Alexander their sovereign, and Pyrrhus spread around them the glory of martial exploits and consummate military skill. Before this time however the Illyrian provinces had been united, though with no very firm bond, to the Macedonian dynasty, under which they remained till the defeat of Perseus: but the period now approached when the Romans, those inveterate enemies of every thing great, and noble, and free in all other nations, took a severe re Αναμέμικται δὲ τύτοις τὰ Ιλλυρικὰ ἔθνη, &c. Strab. 1. vii. p. 502. WHO HAVE INHABITED EPIRUS. 3 venge for the invasion of Pyrrhus: after various and cruel ravages in the Illyrian, Ætolian, and Macedonian wars, the whole country was laid waste by the Consul Æmilius Paulus, whose fierce army in one day sacked seventy cities*, sold 150,000 of the wretched inhabitants into slavery, overthrew their walls, and left them in a state of ruin which at this day attests the fury of those inhuman conquerors. After this scene of destruction the Epirotic nations were governed by Roman prefects, Macedonia being divided into four distinct provinces, called Macedonia the First, Second, Third, and Fourth; in which latter were comprised the Illyrian tribest. When Augustus separated the provinces of the empire into Imperial, and Prætorian or Senatorial, he left amongst the latter class Macedonia and Illyria, with Epirus, which, conjointly with Acarnania, Ætolia, Thessaly, and the rest of Grecia Propria, formed the province of Achaiat. Tiberius took Macedonia and Achaia into the number of Imperial provinces§, but they were restored again to the senate by Claudius. Under the reign of Constantine the Great, Illyricum and Epirus were comprised in the province of Pannonia and governed by an officer with the appellation of vice-præfect. In the division of the empire after the death of Constantine, Illyricum Macedonia and Greece, with Italy and Africa, acknowledged the sovereignty of Constans his youngest son, who after * A.A.C. 166. + ΜΑΚΕΔΟΝΙΑ ΠΡΩΤΗ, ΔΕΥΤΕΡΑ, ΤΡΙΤΗ, TETAPTH. I have seen many medals relating to these divisions. One is in the possession of my friend Mr. Parker, on the obverse of which is a beautiful female head with a diadem, and on the reverse a knotted club surrounded with an oak garland and the legend HP ΠΡΩΤΗΣ N. Dion Cass. 1. liii. § 12. Strab. 1. xvii, sub fin. § Tac. Ann. l. i. c. 76. Dion Cass. Ix. § 24. Sueton. c. 25. Rome and Constantinople at this time were governed by præfects, under whom vice-præfects administered justice in the provinces. Zosimus, l. ii. p. 109. Pancirolus, p. 161. Cod. Justin. 1. xii. tit. 56 and 57. |