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VISIT TO ALI PASHA'S FRIGATE.

scene of ruin which lay beneath us, and then advancing over the site of the "City of Victory," arrived early in the evening at Prevesa, and took up our quarters with the worthy old Italian merchant who had been our host on a former occasion.

Next morning we received visits from the codgià-bashee and the vice-consul, and learned from the latter that an English merchant, a Mr. Richards of Malta, lay with several ships at Port Vathì, ready to take in cows and oxen purchased of the vizir for the supply of that island. It happened that we brought letters of introduction from England to this gentleman, and had been prevented from delivering them by the plague which broke out in Malta at the very time of our intended visit; we therefore gladly seized this opportunity of making his acquaintance in a place where we least expected it, and as soon as we had finished our breakfast repaired to the spot, about half a mile distant from the town, where we found him encamped on the shore, with three vessels lying at anchor. He had been here about a fortnight, and expected to remain a month longer before he should take on board all his cattle. We dined with him under his tent and he promised to return the visit next day at our lodging: few things are more agreeable than the meeting of fellow-countrymen in a foreign barbarous land.

Next morning Mr. Parker and myself took a boat and went on board the vizir's frigate which had given us so much trouble at Ioannina, and which lay at anchor in the harbour opposite Prevesa. This, like all other Turkish men of war, was held under a divided command, there being two captains!-one for the Greeks and another for the Turks! The Greek captain was a fine weather-beaten old tar from the town of Galaxithi, but the Turkish chief was not on board: the crew looked rather like a set of tailors on their shop-board, being for the most part seated cross-legged on deck smoking their pipes and playing at draughts or chess. The ship however seemed much cleaner and in better order than Turkish ships in general are reported to be. She

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was large and roomy, being twenty-nine feet across her quarter-deck; and though built in a clumsy manner was reckoned by no means a bad sailer. She was not intended originally for her present destination, having been a Hydriot merchant vessel which put into the vizir's port of Butrinto during a gale of wind in her voyage to Ancona: there however the unfortunate captain was decoyed ashore, and disappeared, whilst the vessel was detained as a lawful prize and converted to its present use. After having taken coffee and smoked a pipe in the captain's cabin, we stepped into our boat and rowed to the Punta, where we landed and proceeded as far as the new fortress which Ali has erected on the Acarnanian side of the entrance into the Gulf. Like almost all his forts, it appears strong only when the enemies are taken into consideration with whom it is probable he may have to contend this is sufficient for his purpose, and he is loth to waste his money upon superfluities: in the walls we observed several blocks of marble, which, with their inscriptions, had been sawed asunder: upon one of them I perceived mention made of the ACTIAN APOLLO. Here we re-embarked and returned to Prevesa to receive our guest and talk of England.

Next day we made an excursion to Nicopolis, when I found that we had been fortunate in the investigation of its ruins at our former visit; for being situated on a marshy plain, instead of a rocky platform like most ancient cities in Greece, many of its buildings are literally choked up and hid from the view, during the summer months, by thickets of nettles and thistles, which grow to the height of eight or ten feet, and effectually bar all human approach. Being however extremely anxious to take some measurements of the Great Theatre, I made an endeavour to penetrate up to that edifice; but whilst I was cutting a path with my travelling sabre through the lofty thistles that opposed my progress, a serpent of enormous size rushed by my side, making quite a crash amongst the weeds in his way towards the

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VISIT TO SANTA MAURA.

ruins. I stood still for a considerable time listening to the noise which this monster made in his retreat, and then retreated myself, leaving the Great Theatre to the dramatis personæ which now figure upon its stage.

Two days after this adventure I took a boat and paid a visit to Colonel M'Combe at Santa Maura, and as the quarantine laws were not now in force, I was permitted to land and proceed to the castle, where I dined with the governor, and then returned in the cool of a delightful evening. One object of my voyage to that island was to procure some method of conveyance to the shores of Italy, since we could find none at Prevesa; but even there I was unable to succeed. We next endeavoured to persuade one of the captains of Mr. Richards's squadron to bend his sails and carry us across the Adriatic, and that gentleman kindly gave him permission, since it was very improbable that he would be detained longer by such a voyage than he would have to stay idle at Prevesa. The fellow however thinking that we were sorely pressed, demanded such an exorbitant sum for his services, that we instantly broke off the negotiation, and changed our plan of proceeding.

We now determined to take a boat from Prevesa as far as Parga, which was at this time under British protection, and try our chance there for a conveyance to the Italian coast: accordingly on the 28th of May we packed up our baggage, bid adieu to our Prevesan acquaintance and settled accounts with Mustafà and Demetrio. These two faithful domestics followed us to the place of embarkation, and a scene there occurred, which, however distressing at the time, is now pleasing to reflect upon, because it does credit to human nature. They both appeared inconsolable; they cried aloud and sobbed like children, and poor Mustafà rushed into the water up to his knees, just as the boat was pushed off the

DEPARTURE FROM PREVESA.

$45

shore, to kiss our hands for the last time: we then observed them, as we glided over the Ionian waves, retreating from the crowd of unconcerned spectators, and taking their way towards our late lodging, rendered melancholy by the absence of those whom they appeared to esteem, whom they had faithfully served, and in whose fatigues and dangers they had shared.

CHAPTER XIV.

Departure from Prevesa-Porto Phanari—Arrival at Parga—Description of its Site, &c.-Character of the People-Historical Details of Parga-Conduct of the Russian Cabinet-Walk in the Environs-Departure to Paxo-Description of that Island-Ancient Legend-Sail through the Channel of Corfu Coast of Epirus—Acroceraunian Mountains-Celebration of the King's Birthday on the little Isle of Marlera-Tent Scene-Reflections thereon-Cross the Adriatic-Coast of Italy-Ruins of Egnatia-Bari-Barbary Corsair—Barletta— Quarantine.

IT was about eight o'clock in a beautiful evening when we sailed out

of the Gulf of Prevesa and for the last time looked back with a melancholy interest upon scenes so celebrated in the page of history. A soft breeze blowing from the land wafted us round the bluff point of Prevesa and along the Gulf of Comarus; but it died away in the course of a few hours and left us to the exertions of our rowers, who animated and relieved their toil by the wild songs of their country. Lulled by this music and the rippling waves which fell on the adjoining shore, we reclined upon the deck and the deck and slept soundly under the canopy of a Grecian sky. We awoke about sun-rise and found ourselves exactly in front of Porto Phanari, at the mouth of the river Acheron, with a fine breeze blowing right astern. Here we lay to for a short time to contemplate the inimitable scenery of this classic region, and by means of our telescope drew nearer to view those dark hills and towers of Suli which we had visited with so much delight. We observed a great number of fishermen spreading their nets in this beautiful harbour, which is defended by jutting promontories and mountains from every wind that blows, and which still, as it appears to