the towers and minarets of Berat burst full upon the view, with huge Tomour rearing his gigantic head into mid-air: the grandeur of the view was so striking, that we should have thought this alone a sufficient recompence for every fatigue in our journey from Ioannina.

Such scenes as thèse will justify the bard, who thus describes them after his inspection of the most classic regions that have been celebrated in the songs of poets.

From the dark barriers of that rugged clime,
Ev'n to the centre of Illyria's vales,

Childe Harold pass'd o'er many a mount sublime,
Through lands scarce notic'd in historic tales;

Yet in fam'd Attica such lovely dales

Are rarely seen; nor can fair Tempe boast

A charm they know not; lov'd Parnassus fails

Though classic ground and consecrated most

To match some spots that lurk within this lowering coast.

At the distance of about half a mile up the valley a fine bridge of eight arches thrown across the Apsus, leads into a picturesque burialground and suburb of Berat, to the east of which rises a noble hill crowned by the fortifications of the citadel and serai of the pasha*; both of these have been lately much enlarged by their conqueror. From the bridge a road runs along the right bank of the river to the city, which is higher up the valley, and lies chiefly around the south-east side of its acropolis. The inhabitants of Berat being almost entirely Mahometan, we were lodged with a Greek merchant named Nicolachi, in the large suburb of Goritza, on the left bank of the Apsus, where the Christian part of the population have their dwellings. Though this house was one of the

*The annexed plate was slightly sketched by the author from the window of his lodging in the suburb: it received the high and beautiful finish which it now possesses from the pencil of the same gentleman to whom these volumes are so much indebted.