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in removing several, and discovered one inscribed with the following word in large characters:

А М В РА

ΚΙΩΤΑ

Excavations here in all probability would be very successful. Not far distant I found two other octagonal columns standing, like the others, erect, and about two feet in height, with many other architectural fragments, and foundations of several edifices. There is also what I take to be the site of an immense theatre, facing the west, where the ground is seen to rise like a succession of steps one behind the other. The wall is most perfect on the eastern side of the hill along its brow: it appears also at intervals on the western side: the whole circumference seems about two miles: in some parts it is scarcely thirty yards in breadth, and is intersected in its sides by deep hollows: at its north-west extremity (for it runs north-west and south-east) it is lower and terminates almost in a point: towards the other end and on each side it is so steep as to make the ascent extremely difficult. The whole rises quite abruptly near the centre of the plain of Delvino; at the south-east end of which is the little village of Pheniké. This situation is assigned by Signore Psalida to the ancient oracle of Dodona; but the only features which appear to correspond with Strabo's account are the following:-1. The plain, very marshy, particularly towards the south, where two rivers lose themselves in a considerable lake, viz. the Bistritza, which flows from Mourzina five hours south-east from Pheniké, and the Kalesproti which runs on the west side of the hill.-2. The hill itself, surrounded on all sides by magnificent mountains, except towards the south where the sea and the island of Corfu are seen above the low eminences.-3. The fountain on the east side of the hill.

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267

The epithets δυσχείμερος and αιπύνωτος, which Homer and Æschylus apply to Dodona well accord with this situation: there are many trees, principally willows and poplars, on the plain; but I could discover no traces of the prophetic oaks*.

From Pheniké I went along the banks of the Bistritza to its source. I visited in my way an old Greek church, dedicated to Saint Nicolo, distant about one hour from the village; it is evidently constructed with materials brought from the ruins: the interior is supported by granite columns some of which are twenty inches in diameter, but others less they are not more than seven feet in height: in the walls are several blocks sculptured in relief with figures of a lion, an eagle, &c. well executed. Amongst others I found one with an inscription defaced, but terminated by the word XAIPETE "Farewel!" The source of the river is just below the village of Mourzina. Half issues out of the rock in at least fifty streams of the sweetest and most transparent water: the other half proceeds from a pool, which appears very deep, as the surface is not ruffled by the least ebullition. I was shewn at another place a round hole in the rock, from which a few years ago water also flowed; but this is now dry. The rock appears of limestone: the water issues out in most places with great velocity and forms a stream as large as the Avon at Bath.

From hence, passing through Mourzina, we proceeded between two immense ridges of mountains branching off from that which forms the western boundary of the great vale of Deropuli, whose scenery soon

* From this accurate account of Mr. Jones, the classical reader will, I think, agree with me in what I have before observed regarding the fallibility of Signore Psalida's opinion regarding the site of Dodona. In fact, the ruins above mentioned belong to the ancient city of Phoenice, whose very name is still preserved in the modern village: it was the strongest and richest city of all Epirus; (TOXù Þolvien diépepe τότε τῶν κατὰ τὴν Ήπειρον πόλεων ευδαιμονίᾳ· Polyb. l. ii.) : it was betrayed by some Gaulish mercenaries to the Illyrians in the reign of Queen Teuta, a circumstance which Polybius says struck terror into the Grecian cities when they saw τὴν οχυρωτάτην ἅμα καὶ δουατωτάτην πόλιν τῶν ἐν τῇ Ἠπείρῳ παραλόγως ὕτως ἐξηνδραποδιζομένην (l. ii.) and from hence he takes occasion to blame the Epirots for relying on such a faithless crew as the Gauls, and hints at the danger of trusting an opulent city to the protection of mercenaries.

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burst upon our view, exhibiting a prospect of unparalleled magnificence in its noble mountains and its numerous towns and villages. We passed across it to a village on its eastern side, but the inhabitants would not receive us when they heard we came from the neighbourhood of Delvino: we were obliged therefore to keep on our course, and as it was a fine moonlight night, and we were travelling under a Grecian sky, we scarcely regretted our disappointment. We rested at Pondicatis, and next day reached Zitza, a place celebrated in the stanzas of Childe Harold, though I think his encomium is much too lavish. The view is certainly fine, but far inferior to the vale of Deropuli and many others of Epirus. Here is made the best wine in Greece, and this was the time of vintage. All the wine is made out in the fields, where the grapes are put into large casks and trod upon by men bare-footed, till the juice is quite expressed: it is then carried in goat skins to the village, put into barrels, and left to ferment and settle: it is removed in this manner four or five times before it is put into the cask for drinking.

In my way from Zitza to Ioannina I passed through the village of Protopapas, which some consider as the site of Dodona: I made diligent inquiries for ruins, but could find none. The approach to Ioannina from the north appeared to me much finer than that from the south, its grand seraglio, fortress, minarets, and cypress groves being seen from this quarter to great advantage. The last few days I passed in Ioannina were rendered melancholy to me, from a very distressing circumstance. On my arrival, October 12th, I was informed that two English gentlemen were in the city, one of whom lay dangerously ill. I went immediately to visit them and found the sick person to be a Mr. King whom I had known at Corfu, and from whom I experienced many civilities. He was chaplain to the Ionian forces, and had come with his friend Captain Scriven of the Royal Artillery, to see Ioannina pay a visit to Ali Pasha. Great alarms were expressed, for fear his disorder might be the plague, and I was earnestly requested to leave the place; this however I could not consent to do, especially as I per

and

RELATING TO APOLLONIA, DELVINO, &c.

269 ceived Mr. King's illness was the malaria fever, which he, as well as his servant, had caught at Prevesa. He was apparently about forty years of age, and possessed of as strong and robust a constitution as I ever met with; but he died in my arms on the 15th, and I buried him next evening in the cemetery of the Greek church of St. Nicolo. On the following day I procured a stone slab, which, after I had inscribed upon it the name and titles of the deceased, I placed at the head of his grave. The day before I quitted Ioannina I visited the vizir in company with Captain Scriven. The chief subject of our conversation related to the unfortunate death of Mr. King: he appeared affected by the event; but whether this proceeded from humanity I will not pretend to say. The same day we also paid a visit to Salee Pasha, the vizir's youngest son. He had lately received two tails from the Porte and been created Pasha. He received us sitting like his father, and asked us several pertinent questions respecting our own country and our opinion of Albania. Next day I departed for Athens over the mountain barrier of the Pindus.

Departure from Berat-Route to Klissura-Description of the Town and Fortress-Fauces Antigonea-Route to Premeti-Lustral Eggs-Town of Premeti, Serai, and curious Rock on the Bank of the Voiussa-Interesting Route to Ostanitza-Castra-Pyrrhi-Ostanitza-Route to Konitza-Picturesque Situation of that City-Mountain of PapingoAlbanian Governor's Hospitality-Ascent to the ancient Fortress-Beautiful Crystals found on the Hill-Route to Mavro-vouni, and from thence to Ioannina-Ceremonies of Easter-Greek Fasts-Visit to the Vizir, Mouchtar and Mahmet Pashas-Money Affairs at Ioannina, Rate of Interest, &c.—Visit to Signore Logotheti of Livadia-Excursion to the Island in search of MSS.-Dinner with Mouchtar Pasha-Vizir sends his Chaoushes for us-Translation of his Papers-Interesting Conversation with Ali-Sudden Change of Weather-Visit to the Convent of Saint George, on Occasion of its Festival-Moonlight Scene from the Heights of Mitzikeli-Anecdote of Mustafà-Scene with the Hegumenos-Greek Convents and Caloyers-Last Interview with Ali Pasha, &c. -Departure from Ioannina.