DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTRY. · 129 The ing chain of mountains, at once an ornament and defence. Acheron, after passing through the valley of Dervitziana, first enters the Suliot chasm, where it is called the Gorge of Skouitias, from a small village of that name: a narrow path, which winds amidst the darkest woods upon the right bank, conducts the traveller in about two hours to a narrow cut across his path, called Klissura, admirably calculated to stop the progress of an enemy. This defile was commanded by a fort called Tichos, and near it was the first village of the Suliot republic, called Navarico or Avarico. From hence a gradual ascent leads to the deserted site of Samoniva; thence to Kiaffa, signifying a height, and lastly to Suli, the capital of the tribe, which was generally styled Kako-Suli, like the Kaxoto of Homer, from the difficulties it opposed to a conqueror. Near the spot where the mountain-path leaves the side of the Acheron, to wind up the precipices between Kiaffa and Kako-Suli, a conical hill overhangs the road, called Kunghi, on which stood the largest of the Suliot fortresses, named Aghia Paraskevì*, or Saint Friday. At the same spot another small river, flowing from the Paramithian mountains, joins the Acheron, which, descending down the romantic defile of Glykì, enters the great Paramithian plain, and empties itself, after flowing through the Acherusian lake, into the Ionian sea, near the ancient city of Cichyrus or Ephyre. (See the plan at the head of this chapter.) Such was the situation of the Suliot republic: no vestiges of any ancient cities have been discovered within its boundaries, nor is it clear to what tribe of former ages they have succeeded, though the Selli of Homer apparently offer the fairest claim to pre-occupation of the soil. The date of the Suliot settlement on these mountains is * Hapaσkεvǹ and Kupcakǹ, i. e. Friday and Sunday, are among the common names given to the Greek girls. + Homer certainly places the Selli somewhere in this neighbourhood, in the 16th book of the Iliad, 1. 233. Ζεν, ἄνα Δωδωνᾶιε, Πελασγικές τηλόθι ναίων, And these very Selli appear to have taken their name, or given it, to the river Acheron, the identical referred by tradition to the middle of the 17th century, when some goat and swine-herds having led their animals to feed upon the heights of Kiaffa, were struck with the eligibility of the situation, and occupied it with their families. As the population of this small and humble colony increased, it attracted the attention of its neighbours, and sustained many wars with the beys of Paramithia and Margariti, as well as the pashas of Ioannina and Arta. In all these however it was defended by the inaccessible nature of its rocky site, whilst the determined bravery of its citizens enabled it to wrest numerous possessions from the hands of its opponents, and to extend the limits of its sway far beyond the boundaries of its original territory. Before their first war with Ali Pasha, the Suliots possessed sixty-six villages, all conquered by their arms. The citizens of the republic were classed in divisions called faras: each fara contained a certain number of families, and was commanded by its own chief or captain. Of these river of Suli, in very early times. See a passage in Homer's Catalogue, v. 166, where the poet says that Hercules carried off Astyochéa out of the city of Ephyre, from the river Zɛɛç* Τὴν ἄγετ' ἐξ Εφύρης ποταμᾶ ἀπὸ Σελλήεντος· Strabo, indeed, places Ephyre and this river in Elis, where I find no mention made of such by Pausanias or any other author: but the Scholiast intimates the probability of this being the Thesprotian Ephyre, which is frequently mentioned by Homer under this appellation, or that of Cichyrus and Strabo himself, unconsciously enough, gives good reasons for agreeing with the Scholiast: for he says, that the expeditions of Hercules were frequent in this region, and that it was celebrated for poisons: now we know, that Hercules was the friend and guest of Aidoneus or Pluto, king of the Molossi, who reigned in this neighbourhood, from whom he liberated his friend and companion Theseus; and Homer has particularly distinguished this Ephyre for its production of poison, making Ulysses go there for the very purpose of procuring it. With regard to the names of Zeλλòi and Zeλλýɛiç, I know not whence they are derived; but it is probable that they may allude to some religious rites. Eustathius, in his Commentary upon Homer, observes, that wherever there was an Ephyre, there was also a river named Eɛλλhɛiç. HABITS, MANNERS, AND CUSTOMS. Avarico contained 3 faras and 55 families. 3 and 30 125 When the inhabitants of these towns increased beyond the means of support, seven were selected out of their sixty-six tributary villages, to which they sent colonies of native Suliots, who were exempted from paying either forced contributions, or the regular tribute, which was a tenth of all produce. Thus in the village called Tzicuri five faras were settled; in Pericati two; in Villa two; in Alsocori three; in Kondati one; in Gionala three; and in Tzephleki two. The character of this people was warlike in the extreme; and martial exercises comprised almost the whole system of their education. Their chief amusements were the dance and song, the former of which contributed to increase their bodily strength, and the latter to animate their zeal and feed their national enthusiasm: they were passionately attached to their country, which, in spite of traitors who were seduced by the gold of the pasha, would probably have continued to defy his power, but for the pressure of political circumstances. They had a chosen band of 1000 palikars, all citizens of the four principal towns; but 1500 more were embodied from the seven colonies and the other dependencies, during their contests with Ali Pasha. The plan of their warfare, as was the case in ancient times, consisted more in skirmishes than pitched battles, in daring expeditions, sudden attacks, and quick retreats: great examples of heroic devotion were exhibited by individuals; and their harangues breathed in a great degree the fire and spirit of antiquity. The women of this republic were scarcely inferior to the men in bravery, or less eager to share in all the perils of war. Troops of heroines constantly attended upon the soldiers, to carry provisions and ammunition, to assist the wounded, and, if necessary, to engage in battle. The most celebrated of these amazons was Mosco, the wife of Captain Tzavella, and mother of the gallant Foto, the Hector of this 126 HABITS, MANNERS, AND CUSTOMS. new Troy, whose name is still celebrated in many a Greek and Albanian song. Her exploits might rival those of the heroine of Zaragossa. The Suliots had no written law, but many customs handed down from time immemorial served to regulate their conduct: judicial affairs were generally referred to the captain of the fara, or in cases of difficulty to a council of chiefs, convened from the four towns, in KakoSuli. To animate their men the more, the women took precedence at the wells and fountains, according to the character which their husbands bore for bravery, and if a woman had the misfortune to be wedded to a coward, she was obliged ignominiously to wait till the rest had filled their pitchers. It was found that few men could endure the torrent of reproaches that was generally poured upon them at the return of their indignant spouses. The females of this republic were held in such esteem that no man was allowed, under the severest penalties, to interfere even in their quarrels, lest by accident a woman might be killed; and whoever committed such an act was put to death as a patricide, with the execrations of all the citizens. They had an extraordinary custom in their wars of sending out a small body of troops against a superior force, and, on the contrary, a large body against a small one. In the first instance, they intimidated their foes, who knew they were prepared to conquer or to die; in the latter, they were able to secure more prisoners, and gain a greater ransom for the purchase of arms and ammunition. Like the ancient Spartans, they never inquired about the numbers of an enemy, but only where that enemy might be found. Such was the republic with which now Ali prepared to engage: without its destruction he foresaw that all his future plans must fail, since the Suliots were not only the best soldiers in the ranks of his enemies, but were possessed of the strongest bold in the very midst of his dominions, where they gave refuge to the discontented, and from whence they issued to ravage his territories whenever he was engaged ALI'S FIRST ATTEMPTS AGAINST THEM. 127 in distant warfare. The preparations for his first expedition were made in 1792. He then assembled an army of about 10,000 men, all tried Albanian troops, giving out his intentions of attacking the town of Argyro-Castro, the beys of which had been his most inveterate enemies in the early stages of his career. Under this pretext he endeavoured to lull the Suliots into a fatal security, requesting their alliance and co-operation, with the offer of double pay and rewards proportionate to their acknowledged valour. The following is a copy of the letter which he wrote on this occasion to their two most celebrated captains, named Botzari and Tzavella. 66 Φίλοίμε Καπιτᾶν Μπότζαρη και Καπιτάν Τζαβέλλα, Εγώ ὁ ̓Αλῆ Πασᾶς σᾶς χαιρετῶ, και σᾶς φιλῶ τὰ μάτια. Ἐπειδὴ και ἐγὼ ξεύρω πολλὰ καλὰ τὴν ἀνδραγαθίαν σας, και παλικαρίανσας, με φαίνεται νὰ ἔχω μεγάλην χρειαν ἀπὸ λόγεσας Λοιπὸν μὴ κάμετε ἀλλέως παρακαλῶ, ἀλλ' ἐνθὺς ὁπ λάβετε τὴν γραφήν με νὰ μαζώξετε ὅλασας τα παλικάρια και νὰ ἔλθετε νὰ μὲ ἔπρεπε διὰ νὰ πάγω νὰ πο λεμήσω τὰς ἐχθρές με Τέτη είναι ἡ ὥρα και ὁ καιρὸς, ὁπῶ ἔχω χρέιαν ἀπὸ λόγω σας, και μένω νὰ ἰδῶ τὴν φιλίαν σας, και τὴν ἀγάπην ὁπῦ ἔχετε διὰ λόγε με· Ὁ λεφές σας θέλει ειναι διπλὸς ἀπ' ὅσον δίδω εις τὰς ̓Αρβανίτας· διατὶ καὶ ἡ παλικαριά σας ξέρω πῶς εἶναι πολλὰ μεγαλήτερη ἀπὸ τὴν ἐδικήν της. Λοιπὸν ἐγὼ δὲν πηγαινω νὰ πολεμήσω πρὶν νὰ ἔλθετε ἐσεις, και σᾶς καρτερῶ ὀγλήγωρα νὰ ἔλθετε Ταῦτα, και σᾶς χαιρετῶ.” TRANSLATION. 66 My friends Captain Botzari and Captain Tzavella-I, Ali Pasha, salute you and kiss your eyes. your eyes. Since I am well acquainted with your courage and spirit, it appears to me that I have great need of your assistance. Wherefore I beseech you take no other resolution when you receive my letter, but assemble together all your palikars and come to meet me, that I may march to combat against my enemies. This is the very season and the time in which I need your help, and I expect to see the friendship and the love you bear towards me. Your pay shall be double that which I give to my Albanians, for I know your valour is superior to theirs. As I shall not go to war before you arrive, I entreat you to come quickly. This, and farewel.” |