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If there were no other historical attractions in Malta but what is thus written in the New Testament it would be well worth a visit. But Malta now, one of the strongholds of the British Empire, one of the citadels on her Indian highway, has had more than her share of the mutations of human fortune. It is supposed to have been

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the Island of Ogygia, where Homer gave a home to Calypso. It fell in the hard hands of the Carthagenians. Then the Romans came and threw it into their empire. Then came the Vandals, the Goths and Arabs in fierce succession. Afterward came the unique dominion of the Knights of St. John, who came from Rhodes when the Turks pulled down the cross. In 1800 Napoleon, then on his way to Egypt, took the Island; but in 1802 it came into the hands of the English, who have made it as strong as Gibraltar; strong enough to be regarded as impregnable. We had made fast to our anchorage and had fired the

salute of twenty-one guns, by which a vessel of war does honor to a foreign port, when an officer reported to General. Grant that the Duke of Edinburgh was coming on board. The ship next to the Vandalia was the Sultan, a noble English iron-clad under the command of His Royal Highness. The General was standing on the deck studying the town when the captain's boat of the Sultan, with the Duke steering, whirled around the stern. His Royal Highness was received at the gang-way by Captain Robeson. He was dressed in his uniform as captain, wearing on his breast the star of the Garter. The General advanced and greeted the Duke, and presented the gentlemen with him, and they retired to the cabin. They remained in conversation for the best part of an hour, talking about Malta, its antiquities, its history, England, education, the Eastern question, the weather and Besika Bay. His Royal Highness said he had orders to sail, and supposed his destination was Smyrna. He had had his time at

Besika Bay and did not regard the return with any enthusiasm. He spoke of the visit of his brother-in-law, the Grand Duke Alexis, to America, and of the gratification of the family at the reception by our people. The Duke is the pattern of a sailor, and has all the ease and off-hand grace of his family. On taking his leave his Royal Highness asked the General and family to visit him at his palace of San Antonio and take luncheon. The palace of San Antonio is about four miles from the town. It is surrounded by orange groves and walls, and is noted as the only large garden on the island. The drive was through an uninteresting, glaring country, the perpetual glare almost dimming our eyes. When we reached the palace, the Duke and Duchess received General and Mrs. Grant and their son in the most gracious manner. After luncheon His Royal Highness escorted them through the orange groves.

At noon General Grant visited the Governor General of Malta. On leaving the General was saluted with twentyone guns. A regiment was drawn up in front of the palace as a guard of honor. The Governor, a famous old English General, Van Straubeuzee, wore the Order of the Grand Cross of the Bath. He received the General and party at the door of the palace surrounded by his council and a group of Maltese noblemen. After presentation to Lady Van Straubeuzee the same ceremonies were repeated. In the evening there was a state dinner to the General and party at the palace, including among the guests Commander Robeson and Lieutenant Commander Caldwell, of the Vandalia, as well as the Captain and executive officer of the Gettysburg. At the dinner General Grant's health was proposed, which was responded to in the heartiest manner. We all then went to the opera, and on the entrance of the General, the company sang the "StarSpangled Banner," Miss Wheelock, of Boston, singing the air. The cheering was enthusiastic and the reception of the General cordial in the last degree.

On the following day a visit was paid to the Duke of Edinburgh's ship, the Sultan, and a very pleasant season passed. On Monday, the 31st, the party sailed for Alexandria.

CHAPTER XII.

HOSPITALITIES IN MALTA - THE ENGLISH BANDS PLAY AMERICAN AIRS- "THE MARQUIS"—A LITTLE GALE

SUNSHINE AND LAND-WARM WELCOME AT ALEXANDRIA-GRANT MEETS STANLEY-FROM ALEXANDRIA TO CAIRO THE KHEDIVE RECEIVES GENERAL GRANT -THE ENTERTAINMENT OF THE CONSUL-GENERAL.

There were many temptations, writes Mr. Young, to remain in Malta. Hospitalities showered upon us. All the great ones of the place, beginning with His Royal Highness the Duke of Edinburgh, vied with one another in making our visit a pleasant one. I think if our mail had been ordered to Malta instead of Alexandria, we should have remained anyhow. At the last moment there was a disposition to stay, but the General had taken his leave and sent his cards, and he is not apt to change his mind. In the morning of the last day of the year, he pushed ashore and roamed about an hour or two through the quaint streets of the strange, old town. I have called the town Malta, but it is really named Valletta, after John de la Valette, who was Grand Master of the Order of St. John, and built the town in the middle part of the sixteenth century. The knights held Malta for nearly two hundred and fifty years, and remained until the French and then the English drove them out. The people have a peculiar dialect, based on the Arabic, with plenty of Italian, French and English thrown in. The prevailing industry seems to be following officers and strangers around all day and begging. The town has many beautiful views, and I could see very easily how life might be toler

ated here for the warm, genial air. It was the last day of the year when we pushed out into the bay and turned our prow toward the Mediterranean. There was quite a group of officers on deck surrounding the General and his party. As we neared the Sultan the band played our national airs, winding up with "Auld Lang Syne." We exchanged greetings with them, and with our compatriots of the

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HOUSETOP AND BATTLEMENTS AT MALTA.

Gettysburg, who had gathered on the quarterdeck to say goodby. So our last remembrance of Malta is the music that came from the Sultan, the hurrah that came from the Gettysburg and the lowering of one solitary flag, far up the cliff, which indicated that our consular agent was on the watch and was bidding us good speed.

Our General fell into his sea life quite readily. He seemed to welcome the sea with the rapture of a boy going home for a holiday. I can well imagine what a holiday it must be to one who has done in sixteen years the work

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