TRAVELS

IN

SICILY GREECE AND ALBANIA

BY THE

REV. THOS. SMART HUGHES

LATE FELLOW OF SAINT JOHN'S AND NOW FELLOW OF EMMANUEL COLLEGE
CAMBRIDGE.

ILLUSTRATED WITH

ENGRAVINGS OF MAPS SCENERY PLANS &c.

IN TWO VOLUMES

VOL II.

LONDON

PRINTED FOR J. MAWMAN 39 LUDGATE STREET.

180338-C

Difficulty of procuring Historical Records for a History of Ioannina---Cursory View of the dif-

ferent Nations who have inhabited Epirus---Conjectures on the Origin of Ioannina---Its

History in the Middle Ages---Its Capture by the Turks---Story of Dionysius the Skeloso-

phist---Present Condition of Ioannina in Public Buildings, Schools, &c.---Commerce---

Produce of its Soil---Food of the Inhabitants---Climate---Diseases---Cruel Instance of Ali

Pasha's Tyranny

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CHAPTER II.

Marriage Procession of Giovanni Melas---Marriage Feast and various Entertainments---Reflec-

tions upon the State of Female Society in Greece---Story of Phrosini - Story of Gelisem---

Marriage Ceremonies---Albanian Wedding.......

CHAPTER III.

Shooting Excursion with Mouchtar Pasha upon the Lake---Dinner on the Island---Invitation to

a grand Entertainment by the Vizir---Description of it---Visits from the chief Greeks of

Ioannina---Signore Alessio, the Governor of Zagori---Visit of Ceremony to the Vizir---His

Skill in Geography---Shooting on the Lake---Thalassopuli---Police of Ioannina---Review

of Albanian Troops by the Vizir---Our general Manner of Living---Manners and Customs

of the Greeks---Marriage Procession of one of Ali Pasha's Concubines---Ali's Harem---His

Court and Officers..

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45

CHAPTER IV.

State of Literature in Ioannina---Romaic Language---Turkish Society---Anecdote of a Greek

Papas---Vespers at the Cathedral---Church of Sta. Marina---Vizir's Bath---End of Carni-

val---Tyrannical Acts of Ali Pasha---Tenure of Land in Albania---Chiflicks---Comparative

State of Albania with the rest of Turkey---Greek Funeral---Expedition of Ali against Parga

---Dinner with Mr. Pouqueville---Ali's Council---Visit to Mouchtar Pasha---Occurrence

at his Serai---Festival at the Church of St. Theodore---Greek Superstitions, Clergy, &c.... 71

Difficulties which occur to the Writer of Ali Pasha's early History---Prefatory Remarks respect-

ing the Country called Albania and its Inhabitants---Ali's Birth-place and Family---His

Situation at the Death of his Father---Character of his Mother---Ali's Education---His

Mother and Sister carried off by the Gardikiotes---Ali's first Attempts at Warfare and va-

rious Success---His Adventures in the Mountains of Mertzika---Throws off his Depen-

dence on his Mother---Turns Kleftes---Taken by Kourt Pasha and released---Again turns

Kleftes---Taken by the Pasha of Ioannina but released---Is again attacked by Kourt, but

succeeds in gaining his Favour---His Adventures at Berat---Enters into the Service of the

Pasha of Negropont---Gains Wealth and attempts to seize upon Argyro-Castro, but fails---

Takes Libochobo, &c.---Destroys the Town of Chormovo---Attacks the Pasha of Delvino

whom he assassinates, but is driven from the Place---Is made Lieutenant to the Derven-

Pasha---His Conduct makes the Pasha lose his Head---Serves against the Russians---En-

ters into Correspondence with Potemkin---Gains the Pashalic of Triccala---Attacks Ioan-

nina---Gains a Battle over the Beys---Succeeds by Stratagem in taking the City---Appoint-

ed by the Porte Derven-Pasha of Rumelia---Conquers the Pasha of Arta---Takes Klissura,

Premeti, Ostanizza and Konitza, and secures the Course of the Voïussa from Mount Pin-

dus to Tepeleni...

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CHAPTER VI.

Account of the Suliots---Country, Government, Habits, Manners, and Customs---Ali's first At-

tempts against them--- His Stratagem---How defeated---Anecdote of Tzavella and his Son

---Ali attacks Suli---Desperate Resistance of the Suliots---Heroine Mosco---Ali's Defeat

and Flight to Ioannina---Peace concluded---Ali's Policy with regard to foreign Powers,

and his own Government---French Occupation of the Ionian Islands---Ali's Intrigues with

Bonaparte---Attends the Grand Vizir against Paswan Oglou---War between Turkey and

France---Ali takes Advantage of it---Ionian Isles pass under the Protection of Russia---

Ali takes all the Continental Dependencies except Parga---Terms on which these are con-

ceded to the Porte---Ali, for his Services, is made Rumelie-Valisee, with the Title of Vizir

---Commences a second War with the Suliots---Interprets the Prophecies of the Koran to

encourage his Adherents---Leads his Troops against Suli---Joined by the Traitor Botzari---

Bad Success in several Engagements---Turns the Assault into a Blockade...

CHAPTER VII.

Ali turns the Siege of Suli into a Blockade---Brave Action of the Suliots, in which Foto Tza-

vella is wounded---Stratagem of the Suliots---Treachery of Ali---Letter of the Suliots---

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