88

VISIT TO MOUCHTAR PASHA.

without the permission of their master: accordingly all the tatars were put in requisition and were in constant motion between the capital and Prevesa. Ali indeed sometimes contrives to throw the odium of op. pressive and disagreeable measures upon his council, though he never allows it free agency. His insatiable love of power makes him anxious that all the minutest springs of state machinery should depend upon himself: and this desire is seconded by that knowledge which he has acquired of his territories during his extensive peregrinations, and by his extraordinary memory, which enables him to remember persons and facts at a wonderful distance of time. Every one seems conscious of the power which this knowledge gives him, and when absent, his presence is still, as it were, felt: nothing can illustrate this so admirably as the expression made use of by the physician Metaxà to Dr. Holland, "that there was a cord tied round every individual in his dominions, longer or shorter, more or less fine; but every one of which cords went to him and was held in his hand*."

One day, during Ali's absence, having paid a visit to Mouchtar Pasha, as we were sitting in his saloon such violent shrieks and outcries from a female were heard beneath the window, that he ordered her to be brought The up. poor creature being introduced, ran and threw herself at his feet kissing the hem of his garment and imploring him, with the most moving lamentations, to save her daughter, a young girl only fourteen years old, whom Sechrì Effendi, one of Ali's chief secretaries, and a violent bigot, had seduced to the Mahometan faith. Can it be believed that this brute in a human shape set up a loud laugh and ordered his chaoushes to turn the poor suppliant out of his serai?

February 26. This day a festival or fair was held in booths upon a vacant space, about a mile from the city, at the church of St. Theodore, and in honour of its patron. At about eleven o'clock A. M. we set out for the scene of action, and were passed on the road by Signore Alessio

* Holland's Travels, p. 187.

FESTIVAL AT THE CHURCH OF ST. THEODORE.

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mounted upon a finely caparisoned white charger, and accompanied by a long train of Greek gentlemen. We found the people amusing themselves in various sports and pastimes, and the priests just ready to begin a service, which was delayed only till Alessio should arrive. At length he entered and the church was soon crowded with people, each of whom, as he came in, paid adoration to a dirty picture of the saint placed in triumph on a frame in the middle of the aisle: this he kissed with great reverence, crossing him both before and after the ceremony. So much had this painting suffered from the lips of its admirers that scarcely a feature could be traced upon the canvass. The women were as usual concealed from public view by the lattice-work of the gallery. Various mummeries were now exhibited at the great altar which stands at the east end of the church before the Holy of Holies, a place venerated like the adytum of an ancient temple, through the apertures of which the priests ran in and out, like puppets in a show, dressed in their most gaudy habiliments: the Kyrie Eleeyson was sung and a few psalms chaunted, during which process boys in surplices came up to receive our contributions, swinging incense in brazen censers till the whole church was filled with smoke: this custom is observed as some say on account of its grateful odour and utility in a hot climate, or, according to others, to drive away demons and evil spirits:

Λύχνων γὰρ ὀσμὰς & φιλῶσι δαιμονες.

My friend and myself put each a dollar into the chalice, for which we received three puffs of frankincense; but Signore Alessio, who contributed a whole handful of sequins, was literally enveloped in a cloud. Other chaunts were afterwards sung in honour of different saints, and at the conclusion of each the chalice for contributions was brought round with the censer as before: these worthies however were enriched only with a few paras. So ridiculous and absurd are the mummeries of

Greek worship within their churches, that in all probability nothing but Mahometan austerity prevents them from practising more nonsense in public than their catholic brethren of the west. The Turks indeed hold the Greek rites in the utmost contempt, and their picture-worship in perfect abhorrence, their own faith being intimately connected with the spirituality of the Deity, of whom they cannot endure any corporeal representations. I once had a conversation with a most respectable Turkish agà upon this subject, who assured me that if the "Greek dogs" were not such idolaters he should have some respect for them, but when he saw them led by such ignorant and sordid impostors as he knew their priests to be, he could not possibly restrain his indignation and contempt. He then asked me why the English Franks never bowed down to kiss pictures, and why they did not cross themselves? and when I explained to him some of the chief articles of the Protestant faith and the discipline of our church, which discards all ceremonies that tend to debase the mind, and retains those only which are necessary to add dignity to religious worship, he exclaimed that all this was very good (xaλà xaλâ); but that we were no more Christians than he was; meaning to pay us the greatest compliment in his power.

Certainly the Greek priests exert very few endeavours to enlighten their countrymen, whose ignorance and credulity is the source from which they derive the greatest part of their revenues. They teach their flocks therefore just as much of Christianity as is necessary for their craft, instruct them more in legends and miracles of saints than in the life and doctrines of their Saviour, inculcate a lively faith in purgatory, with the efficacy of masses, crossings, and the tedious repetition of prayers, just as if divine like human charity could be forced by sturdy importunity: hence attendance upon ceremonious institutions counterbalances the neglect of religious duties, and the people, unimpressed with the true stamp of devotion, possess a most adulterated system, not only of faith, but of morality. I trust however that the time is not far distant when these abominations shall cease for ever.

The Greek clergy of Ioannina are very numerous and many of them very poor: some follow various kinds of professions, but especially husbandry and fishing: these are distinguished from the laity only by a high round cap and beard flowing over the breast: they despise the tonsure as an innovation of the Latin church. A priest is only allowed to marry once, and his wife must be a virgin: if he marries a second time he is silenced, and is termed an apopapas. The monks or caloyers are bound by a vow of continency, and from them the bishops and other dignitaries of the church are generally selected. The Archbishop of Ioannina is appointed by the Patriarch of Constantinople, on the recommendation of the vizir; he has four suffragan bishops under him, viz. of Vellas (or Konizza), Argyro-Castro (or Drinopolis), Delvino, and Paramithia. His jurisdiction is very limited, for Ali Pasha will permit neither priests nor laity to possess more power than is absolutely necessary within his dominions,

CHAPTER V.

Difficulties which occur to the Writer of Ali Pasha's early History—Prefatory Remarks respecting the Country called Albania and its Inhabitants—Ali's Birth-place and Family-His Situation at the Death of his Father-Character of his Mother-Ali's Education-His Mother and Sister carried off by the Gardikiotes—Ali's first Attempts at Warfare and various Success-His Adventures in the Mountains of Mertzika -Throws off his Dependence on his Mother-Turns Kleftes—Taken by Kourt Pasha and released-Again turns Kleftes-Taken by the Pasha of Ioannina but released-Is again attacked by Kourt, but succeeds in gaining his Favour-His Adventures at Berat-Enters into the Service of the Pasha of Negropont—Gains Wealth and attempts to seize upon Argyro-Castro, but fails-Takes Libochobo, &c.-Destroys the Town of Chormovo-Attacks the Pasha of Delvino whom he assassinates, but is driven from the Place—Is made Lieutenant to the Derven-Pasha-His Conduct makes the Pasha lose his Head-Serves against the Russians -Enters into Correspondence with Potemkin--Gains the Pashalic of Triccala-Attacks Ioannina-Gains a Battle over the Beys-Succeeds by Stratagem in taking the City-Appointed by the Porte Derven Pasha of Rumelia-Conquers the Pasha of Arta-Takes Klissura, Premeti, Ostanizza and Konitza, and secures the Course of the Voïussa from Mount Pindus to Tepeleni.

HAVING proceeded thus far in the journal of our residence at Ioannina, during the course of which I have been necessarily led to bring forward many characteristic traits as well as some political and