MARRIAGE CEREMONIES. 43 Thus it is these barbarians treat that weak and gentle sex, whom they themselves drive into error, instead of endeavouring to retain them within the path of virtue: not only do they totally neglect their education and improvement, but by their polygamical institution, that gross violation of Nature's law* and the social compact, they destroy at once all those tender affections which are the strongest inducements to chastity and virtue. The emancipation of females from tyrannical prejudices will be slow but certain among the Greeks, and they will ultimately attain the proper station to which they are entitled; but with the Turks the case is very different, and almost hopeless there amelioration is opposed by the detestable principles of religion, if indeed it can be called a religion, which teaches that women are born but for the gratification of man and the propagation of the species, which turns them into slaves, and perpetuates the degrading inferiority by denying them participation even in the public worship of their Creator. The marriage ceremony among the Mahometans is extremely simple, being merely a civil contract signed and witnessed before the cadi. The Greek rites are numerous and absurd in the highest possible degree; they have been so often described that a repetition is unnecessary, but as an Albanian wedding may possibly be new to the reader, I shall finish this chapter with the description of one which I received from a friend who was present at the ceremony. "The bridegroom goes on horseback to the dwelling of the bride: he is there presented with an immense loaf, which he breaks into pieces and throws to the spectators at the door, who are all very eager to procure a piece. When he enters he is invited by the parents to sit down to eat and drink, a ceremony which is generally most voraciously com * Polygamy must be considered as an infringement of the law of Nature from the general equality of males and females born into the world, in all places, and in all climates: the preponderance indeed, though small, is said to be on the side of the males, which seems a wise and providential regulation to counterbalance the dangers and accidents to which this sex is so much more exposed than the other. plied with. The mother kisses the bridegroom, and ties round his neck a handkerchief, a present from his fair one and sometimes embroidered by her hands. The duty of the priest is generally performed in the house or garden, it not being at all necessary that it should take place in the church. They then mount on horseback, the bridegroom first dressed in his best apparel, and carefully wrapped in cloaks, looking very downcast, and supported by his friends, as if he were unable to endure so awful a ceremony: the bride is veiled, but loaded with finery, which is either her own, or borrowed for the occasion: at some distance from the house they are met by their friends and the young girls of the neighbourhood, who dance before them to music, which is accompanied by the voices of the party: this is by far the most interesting part of the ceremony. On arriving at the house, the father of the bride receives her in his arms at the door, and while she is apparently forced to enter, throws a pomegranate against the wall as an omen of fertility; the mother of the bridegroom presents her with honey, corn and oil, and winding a shawl round them both, she, together with the relations, drag them into the apartment, the bride affecting great reluctance and resistance. She is there unveiled, and is obliged to stand with downcast eyes, like a statue, against the wall. She is then saluted by the relations and friends, and is ready to receive any little presents which they may be generous enough to offer. generous enough to offer. After this they sit down to a feast, prepared according to the means of the family, all except the bride, who frequently remains standing many hours whilst the company eat, and bows with great complaisance to every one that drinks her health." CHAPTER III. Shooting Excursion with Mouchtar Pasha upon the Lake-Dinner on the Island—Invitation to a grand Entertainment by the Vizir-Description of it-Visits from the chief Greeks of Ioannina-Signore Alessio, the Governor of Zagori-Visit of Ceremony to the Vizir— His Skill in Geography-Shooting on the Lake-Thalassopuli-Police of Ioannina-Review of Albanian Troops by the Vizir—Our general Manner of Living-Manners and Customs of the Greeks-Marriage Procession of one of Ali Pasha's Concubines-Ali's Harem-His Court and Officers. THE day after Signore Melas's marriage feast, we received an invitation at about nine o'clock A. M. to accompany Mouchtar Pasha in a grand shooting excursion upon the lake. We lost no time in preparing our fowling pieces, and descended to the quay accompanied by Signore Nicolo and his brother Giovanni, where we found two caiques waiting for us by the Pasha's orders: all the others belonging to Ioannina, amounting to more than 100, were engaged for the sport. We observed them already moving towards the southern extremity of the lake like a Lilliputian fleet, and our boatmen redoubling their efforts, we soon overtook them. Each caique, besides the rower, contained one or more sportsmen, with as many guns as they could collect. For a considerable distance the squadron moved forward in a strait line, driving before it myriads of wild fowl of every species, until at length the boats at the extremities shot a-head, and formed a curvilinear line, enclosing a large space of water. As this circle narrowed itself, the birds confined within began to rise in dark masses 46 SHOOTING EXCURSION WITH MOUCHTAR PASHA. like clouds, and to fly over our heads. Then the firing commenced from one extremity of the line to the other, and continued about ten minutes or a quarter of an hour, until the surface of the water was literally strewed with wild-fowl. We were stationed near the centre of this circle, close to the Pasha, who had about twenty guns in his boat, with one of his Albanians to load them as quick as they were discharged. He is an excellent shot, and very rarely missed his bird; it is said that he can shoot a hare when he is on horseback at full gallop, but this feat we never witnessed: if practice however can make perfect, he ought to be the best marksman in Albania. Some of his guns were of a great length, and he was so surprised at seeing me bring down a bird at a long shot with a very short fowling piece, that he requested me to send it for his inspection into the caique. After the sportsmen had picked up their game, the squadron was again set in motion, to pursue the wild fowl who had retreated to a different part of the lake: the scene was exceedingly beautiful, for the sun shone brilliantly, and the snow-capt mountains, with the convents villages and cypress groves upon the banks, were finely reflected in the transparent water: the firing from the boats had the effect of a naval engagement in miniature, the echoes of the musketry being increased and prolonged amidst the folds of the surrounding hills: hundreds of eagles and vultures flying around the shores of the lake, flapping their enormous wings, and screaming as it were with delight in the prospect of their prey, added much to the grandeur of the scene. After we had been thus engaged about four hours, the vizir himself made his appearance in his state barge, but did not join in the sport; soon afterwards the wind began to rise, and occasioned rather a heavy swell; the signal was then given for dispersion, and the caiques all hastened with their loads towards the city. Mouchtar however had prepared a dinner at the house of one of his retainers on the island, of which he invited us to partake: accordingly we landed at the village, and found very excellent fare provided in a house remarkable for its extreme neat SHOOTING EXCURSION WITH MOUCHTAR PASHA. 47 ness and cleanliness. We were placed on each side the Pasha at the corner of the divan, whilst two Albanian officers and Signore Nicolo, who was honoured with an invitation, knelt upon the floor, to bring their mouths on a level with the little round table, or tin tray, upon which the provisions were laid. My friend and myself alone had plates, and we all helped ourselves without reserve by means of our fingers from the same dish, except that now and then the Pasha and his guests, for the sake of compliment, dabbed a few handfuls of a mess upon our plates. A young Albanian Ganymede, with flowing hair and embroidered apparel, stood behind Mouchtar, with a pitcher of wine and goblet, from which he helped his master and the rest of the party our fare was pilau, excellent ragouts, fish boiled and fried, fowls and pastry, to the number of about thirty dishes. Soon after we had dispatched our meal, we left the pasha to the enjoyment of his siesta and strolled about the village; whose neat comfortable mansions and clean streets, as well as the orderly behaviour and industrious habits of the people, put to shame all other places which we visited in this country. Passing by a decent church we came into a pretty square, where we observed several stone seats, in which the old men of the village sit basking in the evening sun, after their daily labours, and witness the sports and enjoyments of the youth*. I never observed a greater appearance of contentment and happiness than among this people; it is so favourite a place of resort to Mouchtar, and so useful to him in the pursuit of his sport, that he governs it not only with mildness, but with great partiality. From the village we wandered over the island, delighted with the fine prospects which its eminences afford, and on returning to the house took coffee and smoked several pipes with the pasha before we separated. As the night was fine and clear, Mouchtar, who is insatiable in all amusements, ordered his Upon mentioning this circumstance to a learned friend, he suggested that it was a good commentary upon a passage of the Medea: Πεσσὸς προσελθὼν ἔνθα δὴ παλαίτατοι |
