SUICIDE COMMITTED BY AN ALBANIAN PALIKAR.

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Unfortunate Suliots! the time may yet arrive when your example shall animate the great and good in the glorious contest for Liberty; when the association of your martial deeds shall shed an interest over these Acherontian rocks far above that which their connexion with a fabulous mythology can bestow; when the regenerated Muse of Greece shall deck in all the grace of language and imagery of fancy, those incidents which these pages have recorded in the plain garb of historical narration.

I extended my walk so far that it was nearly dark before I returned to the castle; there I found Mr. Parker with several of its inmates enjoying his pipe before an excellent fire, which the cold night air in this lofty mountainous region rendered almost indispensable. A fine young Albanian palikar gave us several animating descriptions of the Suliot contests, and promised next morning to point out the places where they occurred. When the evening was somewhat advanced our beds were spread out upon the splendid cushions of the divan and we retired to rest.

May 15.-Anxious to make my excursions as extensive as possible over these interesting scenes, I arose soon after the sun and inquired for the palikar who had promised to be my guide: but he was engaged in carrying out the dead body of one of his Albanian comrades who had shot himself in the night. This was the first time I ever had known or heard of the crime of suicide in this country. The incident however made very little impression upon the minds of the garrison, who seemed to think that any one to whom life became a burden had a right to throw it off at pleasure: no one could assign a reason for this rash act of the deceased, who had been observed of late to indulge in frequent fits of melancholy: he was a tried palikar, and had been deeply engaged in the Suliot wars: perhaps the acts which he was then obliged to perpetrate lay heavy on his soul; perhaps conscience shook over him her torturing lash in the dead hour of night, and some pale imaginary spectre of an innocent victim, like the Gardikiote

324 ASCENT TO THE HIGHEST SUMMIT OF THE SULIOT MOUNTAINS.

which disturbed the rest of Mustafà, drove sleep far away from his eyelids! Be this as it may, the manner of his death did not preclude the rites of Turkish burial: his corpse was placed under a shed adjoining the castle, whilst a sheik who lived in one of the repaired habitations of Kako-Suli, was sent for to perform the previous ablutions. When I returned from my early excursion I found the holy man arrived and busily occupied washing the body in a large trough with warm water and soap: he continued for two hours in this employment: the wound was just under the left breast and the ball had probably penetrated the very source of life: the countenance was void of distortion and retained that calm serenity in death which is said always to ensue from fatal wounds by gun-shot. After ablution the body was sewed up in a coarse cloth for interment in the cemetery at Kako-Suli.

When we had finished breakfast our host carried us round this fortified serai or castle, which is built upon a fine isolated cliff, commanding the various avenues of its mountainous district and frowning over the terrific chasm down which the Acheron pours an impetuous torrent. In style of architecture it is somewhat similar to the great palace of Litaritza; to which, although it yields in that part of the edifice which is destined for a serai, it is vastly superior in its corresponding fortifications. After we had taken a survey of the fortress I determined to pursue the best plan I could devise for observing the general configuration of this interesting tract of country, the direction of its mountain ridges and valleys, the course of its rivers, and its relative situation with regard to other districts. For this purpose I ascended with Antonietti and our obliging palikar to the highest summit of the great chain of mountains behind Kiaffa, which is called Raithovouni*. It was a labour of two hours to accomplish this task; but the extent and grandeur of the view when we arrived at the top fully recompensed us

* See the plate representing the exit of the Acheron,

GRAND PANORAMIC VIEW.

325

for our toil. We could see from hence nearly the whole of Epirus, the Acroceraunian hills, the Lake of Ioannina, and the distant Pindus in its full extent: Arta with its lovely bay seemed to lie beneath us; all the scattered isles, rocks, and promontories of the Ionian Sea were brought into view: but the most interesting prospect was that of the Suliot district below us, the winding course of the Acheron, tremendous chasms and ravines into which the light of day can scarcely penetrate, precipices covered with thick woods and surmounted with forts and castles, and the beautiful Acherusian plain, through which the river, after its exit from these truly infernal regions, flows in the most graceful curvature towards the sea. Having Having provided myself with paper and pencil, I contrived to take that map-like sketch of the district which the reader has seen at the head of the sixth chapter in this volume*; but I experienced great difficulty in my operations from the violence of the wind. Our conductor pointed out the place where the traitor Botzari was defeated with his unworthy train, as well as many other spots signalized by the Suliot combats: but the cold was too excessive in this lofty region to permit of our remaining long on the summit, and we soon descended again to the castle. From thence I did not stir out again this evening, being greatly fatigued with my morning

excursions.

* In this little sketch are the two following inaccuracies: Avarico and Samoniva ought to change places, and the river Bassa to be Vavà. These mistakes occurred from my residing at a distance from the engraver, and not seeing the vignettes before they were struck off.

Departure from Suli-District called Laka-Forests of Oaks in the Route to Lelevo-Fire-flies-Route to Castri-Ruins-Albanian WeddingRoute to the Village of St. George-Enormous Plane Trees-River of Luro-Description of the great Aqueduct-Route to EleftherochoriBridge of the Pasheena-Greek Monastery-Route through the Woods of Arta-Guard of Albanian Peasantry-Dogana and Canal of Luro Castle of Rogous-Serpents-Cangià-Traces of the Aqueduct Luro-Arrival at Camarina-Captain Giannaki-Visit to the ancient Ruins at Rhiniassa-Cyclopéan Walls, Citadel, Theatre, Plan of the City, &c.-Route through Nicopolis to Prevesa-Visit to Ali Pasha's Frigate-Punta and Fortress-Excursions to Nicopolis and Santa Maura-Difficulty in procuring Means of Conveyance--Departure from Prevesa.

MAY 16.-We arose very early this morning, and having distributed a present among the garrison, departed through the castle gate under a farewel salute of artillery and muskets, accompanied by a small party