Departure from Berat-Route to Klissura-Description of the Town and Fortress-Fauces Antigonea-Route to Premeti-Lustral Eggs-Town of Premeti, Serai, and curious Rock on the Bank of the Voiussa—Interesting Route to Ostanitza-Castra-Pyrrhi-Ostanitza-Route to Konitza-Picturesque Situation of that City-Mountain of PapingoAlbanian Governor's Hospitality-Ascent to the ancient Fortress-Beautiful Crystals found on the Hill-Route to Mavro-vouni, and from thence to Ioannina-Ceremonies of Easter-Greek Fasts-Visit to the Vizir, Mouchtar and Mahmet Pashas-Money Affairs at Ioannina, Rate of Interest, &c.—Visit to Signore Logotheti of Livadia-Excursion to the Island in search of MSS.-Dinner with Mouchtar Pasha-Vizir sends his Chaoushes for us-Translation of his Papers-Interesting Conversation with Ali-Sudden Change of Weather-Visit to the Convent of Saint George, on Occasion of its Festival-Moonlight Scene from the Heights of Mitzikeli-Anecdote of Mustafà-Scene with the Hegumenos-Greek Convents and Caloyers-Last Interview with Ali Pasha, &c. -Departure from Ioannina.

APRIL 6.—This morning we started on our return. For a short distance we ascended up the fine valley of the Apsus, terminated far off by the huge Tomour*, and then turning to the right proceeded in a southerly direction through a valley of two hours in length, bounded by moderate hills covered with evergreens, and interspersed with many cultivated spots, but few habitations. We then ascended upon higher ground and had not only a noble prospect in front of the dark mountains of Kolonia, but a very fine retrospective view of Berat with its fortified citadel, and the gigantic Tomour. For the next three hours we proceeded in a general descent of country through valleys and beds of torrents, and found the country exhibiting signs of greater population: at the end of five hours we passed the large Turkish village of Tojar, upon the side of a mountain on the right, where about fifteen years before Ali and Ibrahim had fought several sanguinary battles; about two miles further appeared a small fort built by the vizir upon the summit of a hill, at the bottom of which stood a spacious han called the Han of Ali; we had passed another called the Han of Ibrahim near an hour before. For the next four hours the road was generally uninteresting, up and down hills and in the beds of torrents; only a few houses were scattered about, and each of those generally occupied the summit of an eminence, isolated as it were for the sake of security. We crossed at least as many as thirty streams, and two of those nearly thirty times. At the end of these last four hours we arrived at a han, but so disgustingly filthy and miserable that we determined to proceed to another about two hours further on. The latter part of this

* This mountain is called by Strabo Tóμapos or Tuapos; but Eustathius ad Od. . gives it an appellation much nearer its modern sound, Toμepos. It is often mentioned by the Byzantine historians, and seems to have had a strong citadel or fortress in its vicinity. Τίμωρον Φρέριον τι και αυτὸ εσπέριον περὶ Baλáyρıra kioμévov (Cantacuz Hist. p. 301.) If the Tomarus of Dodona be confined to this spot it will upset all the theories yet formed upon the subject: but as this latter place is always reckoned in Epirus, aud Tomour is far beyond its limits, some other range of hiils must have had this appellation: in fact the mountains of Kolonia and Zagori appear to be but branches of this enormous trunk.

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route lay through a lovely plain under a magnificent mountain on the right called Trebesheena, opposite to which we found the han destined for our resting place, situated in one of the most picturesque sites that can be imagined.

Next morning we resumed our journey for one hour through a beautiful valley, under Mount Trebesheena to Klissura, which is situated on a tremendous precipice of that mountain, where the Voïussa pours its foaming waters through the great defile, anciently known by the name of "Stena Aoi," or "Fauces Antigoneæ."

The situation of this town is singular in the extreme. It lies at a considerable height up the mountain, which is a rock totally bare of vegetation, and beyond it appears a large fortress, built by Ali, to curb the spirit of this district, upon the very edge of a precipice more than a thousand feet in perpendicular height. We rode up to the town, which contains about two hundred inhabited houses, which are certainly amongst the most miserable tenements we beheld in all our travels, and their occupants exhibited such a picture of misery as was frightful to the imagination. A few dirty rags served as an apology for clothing to the adults, and the children absolutely went stark naked; though the thick coating of dirt with which their bodies were lined might almost be said to stand in the stead of garments. A large colony of gypsies still more wretched in appearance, if possible, were mingled with the inhabitants. In ascending to the fortress we observed a great number of ruined habitations, amounting to between three and four hundred, which gave a still more desolate appearance to the view of this arid rock*. The castle is large, though not built for long duration; artillery could with difficulty be brought to bear against it. Near the foundation of the first entrance are

A very extensive cemetery in the plain below Klissura, where a large Tekè or Turkish monastery was just erected, denotes the former population of this place. The people are said to have emigrated about half a century ago to the mountains of Kolonia.

DESCRIPTION OF THE TOWN AND FORTRESS.

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several layers of Greek masonry, which shew that this important post was not neglected by the ancient masters in the art of war. If a city ever existed in their time upon this spot, it was probably Antigonea. Before we entered into the castle we ventured as near as safety allowed to the giddy height upon which it stands. Looking down we beheld the Aous still chafing its channel between two tremendous walls of rock, which scarcely leave room for the river and the narrow road which winds along its side*. The noise of the foaming torrent at this height is heard only in gentle murmurs. Beyond the Trebesheena, upon which Klissura is situated, another lofty mountain runs parallel to it from north to south called Mesgourani, both of which form one side of this contracted defile. The opposite heights are called Melchiovo, and are branches of the vast chain of Mertzika. From this advantageous position the Roman Consul Flaminius drove Philip King of Macedon by means of treachery, and thus gained an inlet into the interior of his territories. We were received into the fortress by its governor, and conducted over the fortifications. To this place Ali frequently sends his state prisoners as to one of complete security. We observed several of these wretched victims of his tyranny and suspicion: one of them was a poor Greek of Lepanto, who had been seized at the dead of night in his bed, and hurried away instantly to Ioannina, from whence, after having been detained in a noisome dungeon eighteen months he was banished to this dreadful prison, where he had remained two years without even knowing the crime for which he suffered the poor man could attribute his misfortunes only to having procured a protection from the French ambassador at the Porte. Another prisoner was a young black eunuch, sent hither for having struck with a knife and wounded one of the vizir's pages: pages: this appeared a malicious urchin, and could scarcely be restrained by manual correction from his savage propensities.

*Is inter montes quorum alterum Eropum, alterum Asnaum incolæ vocant, angusta valle fluit, iter exiguum super ripam præbens. Liv. 1. xxxii. c. 5.

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ROUTE TO PREMETI-LUSTRAL EGGS.

66

Having satisfied our curiosity, we descended into the town to satisfy our appetites with some coarse calamboci bread and eggs, and then set forward again up the valley of Aous, taking the same road as that by which Philip fled from the Roman legions. At the outskirts of the town we met a poor dervish in ragged apparel, who beckoned me from the party and begged alms in a most piteous tone: after I had satisfied his request, he whispered in my ear the following sentence: Ela é Пacià κακὸς ἄνθρωπος· χαλάζει τις Τέρκας The vizir is a bad man, for he ruins the Turks." A curious character for a Turkish pasha in a district of Greece! The torrent of the river, which is always rapid and impetuous, was now greatly augmented by the melting snows: the bridges thrown across its channel are numerous and handsome, many having been erected by the Byzantine emperors, and distinguished by marks of the Greek cross. The distance from Klissura to Premeti is about five hours: we crossed the Voïussa to enter this town by a handsome bridge, upon which a Turk of some distinction had been hanged a week before, for having shot a poor Greek in a brawl at a tavern. The gallows was erected over the centre arch, and the criminal hung for several days, a warning to all who came in or out of the city, that the vizir has no respect for persons in the punishment of delinquents.

Premeti is situated in a beautiful recess under some of the loftiest crags of Mertzika, which here rise perpendicularly from their bases, shooting their spiry forms into the sky with all the varieties of Alpine scenery. The snow at this time lay deep on their summits, and is contained in cavities during the whole of the year. Numerous wolves infest this district, against whose ravages the fierce race of Molossian dogs is the only security. We found Antonietti with our luggage safely lodged in the house of an elderly widow lady, which, like all the other houses in this place, stands separate and distinct from its neighbours. After dinner our hostess came into the room with much ceremony, and having kissed our hands, presented us with some boiled eggs dyed in various colours; an offering very general amongst the