CONTENTS.

Proposal of Ali to purchase Suli---Answer of the Suliots---Attempt made to bribe Dimo

Zerva, but fails---Distress of the Suliots---Assistance sent by the French---Effects of Famine

---Supplies gained by a desperate Effort---Two Suliot Captains yield to the Vizir's Bribes

---One of them repents---Stratagem of Strivinioti---Confederacy of the Tzamouriot Beys

against Ali---How dissolved---Ali joins the Army of the Grand Vizir against Paswan Oglou

---Endeavours to impose upon the Suliots at his Return---Persuades them to banish Foto

Tzavella---Foto goes to Ioannina---Thrown into Prison there---Attack of the Fortress of

Villa by the Suliots---The Vizir, indignant at their Valour, collects a vast Army under the

Command of his Son Vely---Kiaffa taken---Foto Tzavella being released, returns to his

Country---Last Action of the Suliots---Kako-Suli surrenders---People emigrate---Treacher-

ous Conduct of the Albanians---Suliots attacked---Affair of Zalongo---Desperate Revenge of

Samuel the Caloyer---Suliots again attacked---Affair of Rhiniasa---Action at Vurgareli---

Emigration of the Suliots---Song of Suli---Story of the Traitor Palasca---Ali's Quarrel with

the Beys of Tzamouria---Suliots return from Corfu, in hopes of recovering their Mountains

---Ill treated, and regain the Islands---Enter the Russian Service---Ali alarmed at the Pro-

gress of the French arms in Dalmatia---Recovers the goodwill of Bonaparte---French Con-

sul established in Albania---Ali gains Pashalics for his two Sons by the Interest of Sebastiani

--Rupture between Turkey and Russia---Ali reoccupies the Continental Dependencies of

the Seven Islands---Ruins Prevesa---Receives Artillery-men and Stores from his French Allies

---Colonel Vaudoncourt is sent to Ali--- His Opinion of the Vizir---Fortifies Prevesa---Joint

Insurrection of Tzamouria, Delvino, and Berat against Ali---Reduced by him---Admiral

Duckworth's Expedition against Constantinople

CHAPTER VIII.

Ali deserted by his French Allies---Sends an Envoy to the Conference at Tilsit---Seven Islands

conceded to the French---Ali endeavours to gain Parga, but fails---His impolitic Revenge---

Admits an English Agent to a Conference---Assists the English in making Peace with Tur-

key, and publicly espouses the British Interests---Expulsion of the French from five of the

seven Islands---Ali takes Berat---Endeavours to gain possession of Santa Maura and Parga,

but fails---Makes a Gain both of the English and the French---Conquers the Tzamouriot

Beys---Subdues Kimarra---Mission of Mr. G. Foresti as English Envoy to Ioannina---Ali

escapes the Danger of a powerful Invasion by the French Troops from Dalmatia and Corfu

---Avlona taken and Ibrahim Pasha made Prisoner---Ali attacks Gardiki, conquers it, and

massacres the Inhabitants---Murders the Pasha of Delvino---Takes Measures preparatory

to putting Ibrahim to death---The Porte sends an Officer to inquire into his Conduct---

Ali's Cunning---His Treatment of the French Consul---Alarmed at the Conduct of the

Porte---Averts the Storm---Endeavours to bribe General Denzelot and Mr. Pouqueville to

surrender up Parga to his Arms---Failing in this Attempt he attacks it with his Troops---

Defeated before the City---Parga surrenders itself to English Protection---Subsequent

Transactions relative to its History and final Delivery into the Hands of its inveterate Foe---

Summary of Ali's Character---Views regarding his Successor, &c. &c.

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182

Visit to Mr. Pouqueville--- His Opinion respecting Parga---Visit to Mouchtar Pasha---Adventure

of a Robber---Accident at Signore Nicolo's House---Superstitions of Mustafa---Old Tatar

sets out on his Pilgrimage to Mecca---Spring at Ioannina---Appearance of Hawks and

Storks---Excursion to the North of Albania---Zitza---Fall of the Kalamas or Thyamis---

Tzarovina---Vizir's Powder-Mills---Delvinaki--Misery of its Inhabitants- -Inscription upon

a Church---Violent Conduct of Mustafà---Valley of Deropuli - Reflections thereon--Palaia-

Episcopi---Snuff Manufactory---Libochobo - Remains of Adrianopolis--Appearance of Ar-

gyro-Castro---Albanian Soldiers---Captain Gianko- -Cries of Women for the Dead --Descrip-

tion of Argyro-Castro---Inspection of the Fortress---Visit to Salee Bey the Vizir's youngest

Son-The unfortunate Demetrio Anastasi-- Statistical Paper sent by the Bishop of Argyro-

Castro--Mistake of the Author respecting the Bearer

CHAPTER X.

Departure from Argyro-Castro--Fortress of Schindriada--Fountain of Viroua-Visit to the

Ruins of Gardiki---Han of Valiarè---Road to Tepeleni--Arrival there and Reception at the

Grand Serai--Hospitality of the Sultana---Ibrahim the Albanian Governor--- Description of

Tepeleni--Serai burnt down---Curious Anecdote of Ali Pasha connected therewith-- Excur-

sion to Jarresi---Gardens of the Serai---Departure from Tepeleni---Mad Dervish--Route to

Berat---Magnificent Scenery, curious Dwelling-Houses and Manners of the People---

Approach to Berat up the Valley of the Apsus- Lodging in the Suburb of Goritza---Curious

Fashions of the Women---Visit to Hussein Bey---Old Usuff Araps---Turkish Chargers---

Ascent up the Acropolis---Buffaloes---Ancient Isodomon in the Fortress- Historical Accounts

---Great Plain---Ali's Character in Berat---Extract from Mr. Jones's MS. Journal relating

to Apollonia, Delvino, Phœniké, &c.

CHAPTER XI.

Departure from Berat---Route to Klissura---Description of the Town and Fortress---Fauces An-

tigoneæ---Route to Premeti---Lustral Eggs---Town of Premeti, Serai, and curious Rock on

the Bank of the Voïussa---Interesting Route to Ostanitza-- Castra-Pyrrhi Ostanitza-- Route

to Konitza --Picturesque Situation of that City-Mountain of Papingo---Albanian Governor's

Hospitality---Ascent to the ancient Fortress--- Beautiful Crystals found on the Hill---Route to

Mavro-vouni, and from thence to Ioannina---Ceremonies of Easter--Greek Fasts---Visit to

the Vizir, Mouchtar and Mahmet Pashas --Money Affairs at Ioannina, Rate of Interest, &c.

---Visit to Signore Logotheti of Livadia---Excursion to the Island in Search of MSS..--

Dinner with Mouchtar Pasha---Vizir sends his Chaoushes for us---Translation of his Papers

---Interesting Conversation with Ali--Sudden Change of Weather---Visit to the Convent of

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243

CONTENTS.

Saint George, on Occasion of its Festival-Moonlight Scene from the Heights of Mitzikeli —

Anecdote of Mustafa-Scene with the Hegumenos--Greek Convents and Caloyers-Last In-

terview with Ali Pasha, &c.-Departure from Ioannina

CHAPTER XII.

Departure from Ioannina---Cassopaa---Route to Paramithia---Grecian Spring---Vlakiote Shep-

herds---Pass of Eleftherochori---Plain of Paramithia---City---Visit from the Primate and

Bishop---Ascent to the Castle---Route along the Plain to Glyky---Plutonian Temple---Dis-

trict of Aidonati---San Donato and the Dragon---Monastery of Glyky---Water of the Acheron

---Fortress of Glyky and its Albanian Commander---Excursion over the Plain of Phanari---

Village of Potamia---River Cocytus---Convent of St. George---Monastery of St. John, on

the Site of the ancient Necyomantéum---Greek Papas---Ruins of Cichyrus or Ephyre in

the District Elaiatis---Theseus and Pirithous---Acherusian Lake---Malaria of the Plain

---Conjectures on its Mythology---Ancient City of Buchetium---Return to Glyky---Sleep

under the Tent, surrounded by Albanian Palikars---Fine Night-scene---Poetical Address to

the Acheron-Curious Dream of the Author's-Ascent up the Pass of Glyky-Arrival at the

Vizir's great Fortress of Kiaffa-Salute from the Fort---Scenery described---Adventure of

the Author---Suicide committed by an Albanian Palikar---Ceremonies before Interment---

Ascent to the highest Summit of the Suliot Mountains---Grand Panoramic View...

CHAPTER XIII.

vii

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270

.. 301

Departure from Suli---District called Laka--- Forests of Oaks in the Route to Lelevo---Fire-flies

---Route to Castri---Ruins---Albanian Wedding---Route to the Village of St. George---

Enormous Plane Trees---River of Luro---Description of the great Aqueduct---Route to

Eleftherochori---Bridge of the Pasheena---Greek Monastery---Route through the Woods of

Arta---Guard of Albanian Peasantry---Dogana and Canal of Luro---Castle of Rogous---

Serpents---Cangià---Traces of the Aqueduct---Luro---Arrival at Camarina---Captain Gian-

naki---Visit to the ancient Ruins at Rhiniassa---Cyclopéan Walls, Citadel, Theatre, Plan of

the City, &c.---Route through Nicopolis to Prevesa---Visit to Ali Pasha's Frigate---Punta

and Fortress---Excursions to Nicopolis and Santa Maura---Difficulty in procuring Means of

Conveyance---Departure from Prevesa

CHAPTER XIV.

Departure from Prevesa---Porto Phanari---Arrival at Parga---Description of its Site, &c.---Cha-

racter of the People---Historical Details of Parga---Conduct of the Russian Cabinet---Walk

in the Environs---Departure to Paxo---Description of that Island---Ancient Legend---Sail

through the Channel of Corfu---Coast of Epirus---Acroceraunian Mountains---Celebration

326

ј

L.

of the King's Birthday on the little Isle of Marlera---Tent Scene---Reflections thereon---

Cross the Adriatic---Coast of Italy---Ruins of Egnatia---Bari---Barbary Corsair---Bar-

letta---Quarantine...

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346

CHAPTER XV.

Release from Quarantine---Description of Barletta---Excursion to the Site of Canna-Cannosa---

Church of St. Sabinus---Sepulchre of Bohemond---Ancient Tomb, Armour, and Vases dis-

covered in an Excavation---Curious Mistake made by the Author and his Friend---Departure

for Naples--Banditti--Ponte di Bovino---Settlements of Albanians---Naples---Rome-Flo-

rence-Passage over the Alps-Lyons--Paris---Arrival in England---Conclusion.........

Appendix, containing an Inscription on the Han of Valiarè; and a Translation into Romaic of

Lord Wellington's Dispatch on the Battle of Waterloo, extracted from an Ionian Gazette....

364

383

TRAVELS,

&c. &c.

CHAPTER I.

Difficulty of procuring Historical Records for a History of IoanninaCursory View of the different Nations who have inhabited Epirus-Conjectures on the Origin of Ioannina—Its History in the Middle Ages— Its Capture by the Turks-Story of Dionysius the Skelosophist-Present Condition of Ioannina in Public Buildings, Schools, &c.-Commerce Produce of its Soil-Food of the Inhabitants-Climate-Diseases— Cruel Instance of Ali Pasha's Tyranny.

I HOPE I shall not act contrary to the reader's inclination by commencing this volume with a few historical details respecting the city in which we at this time resided; especially since it has been hitherto very slightly noticed by travellers. Indeed the difficulty of collecting any accurate information respecting it is very great, since neither in its origin, nor in its early progress towards grandeur, was it of consequence enough to engage the particular attention of historians: they merely mention it casually, and in a very unsatisfactory manner. Many historical documents however are said to have once existed in the archives of Ioannina; but I was informed that all or greatest part of these had been destroyed by Mahomet Effendi, Ali's prime minister, to shew his sovereign contempt for the literature of the Franks. I paid a visit to this extraordinary character for the purpose of rescuing, if