not knowing which way to turn. The grand esplanade lay in full prospect before me, and almost every foot of it seemed to be covered with a busy multitude; albeit, not having lost my determination 'to walk,' I soon found myself pacing back and forth in front of the factories, jostling my way through a crowd of idle spectators. Op one part of the ground there was a long line of victualing stands. furnished with fruits, cakes, sweetineats, soups, and such like, their keepers constantly calling out to attract the attention of customers: on another part, stood a row of red show-boxes containing marvelous. pictures to amuse boys and silly people, and so catch their cash. Some scores of barbers had taken up their quarters within the area; as had also a number of old dames, with their bags of rags, needle and thread, etc. Cobblers, tinkers, and men with baskets of dogs, cats, fowls, etc., for sale, were also on the spot. These were all busy but by far the greater part of the whole multitude, were mere loiterers, gazing at a few fan kwei, who like myself were trying to 'take exercise.' Among the crowd were several talt gentlemen, merchants from the northern and middle provinces, several of these had birds in their hands, perched on sticks or closed up in cages; and what was very odd, these gentlemen when warmly engaged in conversation, would squat down on their haunches,' four or five of them in a circle, seemingly in a most uncomfortable mode; when their debate was ended they would 'rise,' and again saunter about. I had now extended my walk several times across the esplanade; and in doing so, in one or two instances, had counted my steps, which numbered 270, from which I judged the whole length and breadth of the grand esplanade' from the creek to the Danish hong, and from the factories to the river, might be forty-five rods by ten. So large

The creek, or ditch, at the cast extremity of the esplanade, attracted my attention., for the tide being high, it was covered with boats passing and repassing, some outward, and others inward bound. The creek is perhaps twenty-five or thirty feet wide, and so shallow that at low water it is quite dry; it extends along the whole western side of the city, ten or fifteen rods distant from the walls. Several hun

dred boats belong to the creek, or the creek to them, and they never leave it, whether it be wet or dry. There are on it also many that are employed for the transit of passengers, merchandise, provisions, building materials, manure, and such like: when the water is high, these are all in motion,

Two custom-houses,' so called, stand on the esplanade. These are the offspring of the grand hoppo's' department, and are filled with his domestics, who serve him as 'long eyes' to watch the fan kwei. It was these faithful servants who reported to his excellency, last July, the arrival of four English devils,' viz., lord Napier, Dr. Morrison; sir George Robinson, and Mr. Davis. By the laws of the land, if I have been rightly informed, these fide-waiters are required to live on the river: and this in part they do,-one side of their houses rising out of the water, and the other standing on land. Both of these are of very good dimensions for Chinese houses, and

have grown up in due form according to old custom.

The best of

the two stands near the creek; first there was a small bamboo shed ; next some posts: and by and by, brick walls appeared; and last year, a large mat shed came over the whole, and after a few weeks when it was removed it disclosed a neat brick house.

The Company's garden, which occupies a part of the esplanade, undertook a few years ago to expand itself in the same manner as the custom-houses have done; and it actually did encroach several feet on the river. The redoubtable fooyuen, however, got wind of this, reported the case to Peking, received his majesty's will; and one fine morning, (the 12th of May, 1831,) accompanied by the hoppo, came to the spot in great wrath, and the poor garden soon shrunk back to its former dimensions; occupying, I suppose, full ten rods by four, which is the largest and almost the only retreat for barbarians in all Canton: and even this is private ground, inherited by the heirs and executors of the late British factory.

A landing-place is built close to the garden, and extends several rods beyond it, strait out into the river, and was equally guilty with the garden, and ought to have suffered in the same way. The landing-place is for one of the many ferries between Canton and Honan, and is a good specimen of the whole. The ferry is supplied with eighty boats, each making one share in the proprietorship, and allowed to pass only in regular rotation. Each boat takes eight passengers at a trip, who collectively pay sixteen cash, or about two cents. An individual paying the same amount may have the whole boat for himself.

The ope

Cupping. While out this evening, I noticed a case of this, in which a bamboo was used instead of the cupping-glass. rator had the man bent down in a triangular form, with his hands on his knees, while he himself was applying the bamboo to his back. One application had already been made; very little blood, however, seemed to have been drawn; but I could not perceive in what way the scarification was performed, or whether indeed there was any such operation; for a throng having gathered around the man as I stopped, made it necessary for me to push on and leave them. The operator seemed a mere charlatan; and the only peculiarities which I noticed about him, were his broad hat, the brim full six feet in circumference, and a roll of European newspapers.

Nuns. While returning, I saw a great many old women who had been to one of the public altars to pray for rain; among them was a nun; and as I passed by the altar, which stood by the wayside, I saw another, on her knees before an idol to which she was performing the kow tow,-literally knocking her head on the stones of the street. Nuns here do not hesitate to go abroad; and on such occasions they are usually dressed precisely like the priests of Budha, and have their heads shaved in the same manner. Monday, May 4th. "Hog lane." This elegant name is purely foreign, and is quite unknown to the Chinese, who call it Tow lan, or Green Pea street. It is a great thoroughfare, connected with the ferry and landing-

6

place, noticed above. Its character is indicated by Old Jemmy Apoo;' 'Old Good Tom, old house ;''Jemmy Good Tom;'' Young Tom, seller of wines of all kinds and prices;' and other signs of similar character. This street is not frequented by many foreigners, except sailors, who make it their chief place of rendezvous. Jemmy Good Tom "sells straw hats, tobacco," etc. May 9th.

Guard-house. Barbarians will not understand reason; therefore, it has been enacted, that when the English barbarians and otheres "are lodging in the factories of the bong merchants, the latter are to be held responsible for keeping up a diligent control and restraint over them; not allowing them to go in and out at their pleasure, est they should have intercourse or clandestine arrangements with traitorous natives." See the hoppo's edict, dated Taoukwang, 14th year, 6th moon, 28th day; August 3d, 1834. Taomake the imperial favor more impressive, it was long ago determined to add to the two custom-houses on the esplanade, a military post to aid the hong merchants in keeping up a diligent control. This guard-house stands close by the American hong, and is occupied by a detachment from the Kwang hee, consisting of six or eight brave soldiers. Their courage, however, is merely painted on the back of their jackets, which they seldom wear; and of course it is not always apparent. Ordinarily their accoutrements consist only of rattans, rawhides, lanterns, and a conch-shell. The latter they blow furiously in the night to let theives and robbers know that they are on their guard. May 14th.

Old China street is distinguished for its breadth, being twelve feet from side to side,-the widest that can be found throughout all the suburbs of Canton. Its southern entrance is close to the guardhouse, protected by a strong gate, which is guarded by an old watchman on one side, and by a stone altar on the other. At the north end, it has two narrow entrances; both of which are secured by strong doors, which, as well as that on the south, are closed at night, though sometimes at a very late hour. The whole length of the street is about thirty rods.

Fortune-tellers, and such like, find this a spacious and convenient resort. Passing through the street to-day, about two o'clock P. M., I counted twelve of these fortune-tellers, ten medical establishments, and five money-changers. Two of the first were priests, one a Budhist, and the other of the Taou sect. They were all poor, filthy, and beggarly in their appearance; and each had gathered around him a circle of idlers of the same description.

New China street, through which I made my way home, seemed to have been modeled after the old one, from which it differs very little. Hog lane, Old and New China streets, are all within the narrow area, which is designated sheih san hong, 'the thirteen factories,' and to which the barbarians are restricted, May 19th.

The dress of the Chinese during the month has presented a medium between the winter and the summer dress. Hats and caps, (I speak of the common people,) have been laid aside; the number of Jackets reduced to two or three; and the tight trowsers exchanged

for loose ones The gentry and officials have reduced their dresses in a similar manner while the poorest of the common people appear not only bareheaded, but with bare feet and bare backs, having but a single garment reaching from the loins to the calf of the legs

The eatables seen in the markets during the month, are the le che, taon, sheih lew, kin kwa, suh me, yang taou, yang mei, ling keŏ; fuh show, mung kwo, se kwa, sha le, nan hwa le, poo taou, etc.; these are the native names of fruits: the kinds of fish are merous; the following are the most common, namely, the tsin lung, keën, kwei, săng, tang sheil, lung le, hwang, trăng pei, hwang kul, pih fan, woo, ma tse, senn ko, hwa, leën, hae la, hwan, sung, ma, and tsze woo: of flesh of the animal kind, I may mention, tsaou yang, new, choo, ke, yǎ, ngo, ma, and kow jow: of birds there are the pih ho, the pil ko, chay koo, pan kew, ngan shun, heën yă, teën ke, shuy yu, etc. Such are some of the most common vegetables, fish, beasts, and birds, which constitute the catables of the Chinese at this season of the year. May 20th.

N. B. The word esplanade' is not employed with strict accuracy in the preceding paragraphs; I have used it, because I could not find a better one. The same plot of ground is sometimes called the respondentia walk,' 'the square' and by the Chinese it is called 'the rear of the thirteen factories

ART. VIII. Journal of occurrences, The priest and the chefoo; deaths by fire; rain; Mohammedans of Canton; opening of the southern gate; Mowqua; Fatqua; linguist, and pilot; gambling; literary examinations; cholera; smugglers; riot.

May 1st. The priest and the chefoo. In our last number it was stated that, on account of the long continued drought in Canton, the chefoo of Kwangchow had issued a document requesting aid to force the dragon to send rain; and that in consequence of this, an extraordinary person,' a priest of the Budhistic sect, had proffered his services, and being accepted, had undertaken to procure rain in three days, A high stage or altar was erected in front of the chefoo's office; and on three successive mornings the priest, with his cymbal, wand, and sacred books, mounted it bareheaded, and continued there each. day till the sun went down. But all his efforts were unavailing, and the heat and the drought have both continued. This morning, the priest offered to enter on another trial for three days, but the chefoo, already sufficiently chagrined, bid him begone. The mản is a native of Szechuen, and is said to enjoy considerable celebrity for his power over the elements and for his influence with the gods of the country; and had rain fallen in this instance, no doubt it would have been attributed to his exertions. Tuesday, 5th. Deaths by fire. The period for worshiping at the tombs termi.nated to-day, and the doors of the tombs, i. e. the doors which confine the kwei or spirits of the dead,' beneath the ground, were closed. On this day, it is customary for people to offer sacrifices to their ancestors, in order to secure their protection during the ensuing year. This evening, three individuals, viz., a mother and her little son and daughter, while together engaged in these acts of idolatrous veneration for the dead, accidentally set fire to their honse and pe ished in its ruins. The house stood in the western suburbs, about half a mile

from the foreign factories. The fire broke out about eight o'clock; several engines were soon on the spot, and the flames extinguished; but not, however, until their bodies were nearly consumed. The father and master of the family, Chun Atih, a fishmonger, who seems not to have been at home when the house took fire, was seized by the police and carried before the magistrate of the district, to be examined concerning the circumstances of the fire. The accident in this instance was occasioned by the burning of paper, which was being offered to secure the protection of the spirits of the dead. From the manner in which offerings of paper are almost daily made in the houses of the Chinese, it is matter of surprise that accidents of this kind are not of much more frequent occurrence than they are.

Friday, 8th. Showers of rain. To-day, after an uninterrupted drought of eight or nine months, we have had copious showers. Crowds of people have almost daily, for the last three or four weeks, thronged the shrines of their gods to intercede for rain. On the 1st instant, it was supposed that not less than 20,000 persons, men, women, and children, went to worship the image of the goddess of Mercy, that inhabits a temple on the hill the north side of the city. To show their humility and contrition, the fooyuen and chefoo, and their subordinate officers, descended from their sedans and went on foot with the multitude. Yesterday, it was rumored that the fooyuen, as a last expedient, would release from the prisons of Canton all their inmates, except those who had been committed for capital offenses. Whether this report be true or not, and if truc, with how much sincerity the determination has been made, are points which we shall not undertake to decide.

All the Mohammedans of Canton, it is said, have been engaged, like the other Chinese, in offering sacrifices and prayers in order to obtain rain. The sacred books of these followers of the false prophet are in Arabic, and they object to their being seen by Christians or pagans, lest they should be profaned,

The great southern gate of the city, which has been closed for the last week, was opened to-day in the presence of chefoo, which act was accompanied by an odd ceremony of burning a sow's tail. Elsewhere such a ceremony might have been attended with some danger. But it was not so here. The animal, lashed fast in a cage or basket, so as to be unable to move, was borne on mens' shoulders to a convenient spot near the gate; and then and there under the direction of the chefoo, the fire was applied to her tail. After this ceremony was completed, the poor sow was carried over the river, where she is to become an inmate for life of the famous Honan jos-house! The rationale of all this we are not yet able fully to comprehend. It is a grave maxim with the Chinese, that water quenches fire. A knowledge of this fact, and of another equally incontrovertible, that hot winds here come from the south, suggested the idea of closing the great southern gate. It was hoped by this wise and prudent measure to repress the heat of the Southern regions, and thereby cause the descent of genial showers.

Death of Mowqua. This occurred yesterday, the 7th instant, about 10 o'clock, P. M. at his residence in Honan, E. 49. It is not easy to determine whether the sensation produced by the announcement of this sad event, bears the strongest tesLimony against the individual, or the native inhabitants of Canton who were acquainted with him. From all, except his relatives and personal friends, there seems to be one universal expression of joy, that he is taken away. It is proper, no doubt, to throw the mantle of charity over the misdeeds of the dead, so far as they have no connection with the living. It is possible, in the present instance, that sufficient allowance is not made for the circumstances of the individual. Be ing one of the senior merchants of the co-hong, he was often compelled to be the organ of the government; and in this way he sometimes drew down on himself censure when it was not due. He was, however, evidently unfriendly to the extension of the rights and privileges of foreigners in this country. He possessed nominal rank; and has, we understand, been at the capital, where he formed an early acquaintance with his excellency Loo, the present governor of this province. Great efforts are being made, by the employment of priests and nuns to secure for him an entrance into the temple of heaven.' The coffin in which his body is to be laid cost $370.

Fatqua, it is said, continues to urge his request for a speedy removal into banish