little, less splendid than those of his precursor. Then followed Oude, Nagpoor, Nepaul, all represented by their vakeels, and each in turn honoured by similar, though less splendid, marks of attention. The next was a Persian Khân, a fine military-looking man, rather corpulent, and of a complexion not differing from that of a Turk, or other southern Europeans, with a magnificent black beard, and a very pleasing and animated address. A vakeel from Sind succeeded, with a high red cap, and was followed by an Arab, handsomely dressed, and as fair nearly, though not so good-looking, as the Persian. These were all distinguished, and received each some mark of favour. Those who followed had only a little attar poured on their handkerchiefs, and some pawn. On the whole it was an interesting and striking sight, though less magnificent than I had expected, and less so I think than the levee of an European monarch. The sameness of the greater part of the dresses (white muslin) was not sufficiently relieved by the splendour of the few khelâts; and even these which were of gold and silver brocade were in a great measure eclipsed by the scarlet and blue uniforms, gold lace, and feathers, of the English. One of the most striking figures was the Governor-general's native Aid-decamp, a tall, strong-built, and remarkably handsome man, in the flower of his age, and of a countenance at once kind and bold. His dress was a very rich hussar uniform, and he advanced last of the circle, with the usual military salute; then, instead of the offering of money which each of the rest made, he

bared a small part of the blade of his sabre, and held it out to the Governor. The attar he received, not on his handkerchief, but on his white cotton gloves. I had on former occasions noticed this soldier from his height, striking appearance, and rich uniform. He is a very respectable man, and reckoned a good officer.

CHAPTER IV.

CALCUTTA.

Rope Bridges-Wedding Procession-Hindoo Festival-Cholera Morbus -Fruits-Ordination of Christian David.

IN passing Cossipoor on my return to Tittyghur, I called on Mr. C. Shakespear, and looked at his rope-bridges, which are likely to be most useful, in this country at least, if not in Europe. Their principle differs from that of chain-bridges, in the centre being a little elevated, and in their needing no abutments. It is in fact an application of a ship's standing rigging to a new purpose, and it is not even necessary that there should be any foundation at all, as the whole may be made to rest on flat timbers, and, with the complete apparatus of cordage, iron, and bamboos, may be taken to pieces and set up again in a few hours, and removed from place to place by the aid of a few camels and elephants. One of these over a torrent near Benares, of 160 feet span, stood a severe test during last year's inundation, when, if ever, the cordage might have been expected to suffer from the rain, and when a vast crowd of neighbouring villagers took refuge on it as the only safe place in the neighbourhood, and indeed almost the only object which con

tinued to hold itself above the water. He has now finished another bridge for the Caramnasa, at the expense of Ramchunder Narain, whom I met at the Durbar, and who may expect to reap much popularity with his countrymen from such a public benefit, not only as facilitating intercourse, but as freeing their religious pilgrims from a great anxiety. The name of the river in question means, "the destroyer of good works," from the circumstance of an ancient devotee, whose penances, like those of Kehama, had exalted him to Indra's heaven, having been precipitated headlong by Siva, till his sacrifices broke his fall half-way, directly over the stream in question. He now hangs in the air, head downwards, and his saliva flows into, and pollutes the whole water in such a manner, that any person who bathes in, or even touches it, loses the merit of all his antecedent penances, alms, and other acts of piety, reserving, however, the full benefit of his misdeeds of whatever description. All Brahmins who are obliged to pass it, (and it lies in the way to some of the most illustrious places of pilgrimage,) are in the greatest terror. They are sometimes carried on men's shoulders, sometimes ferried over; but in either case, if they are in the least splashed or wetted, it amounts almost to a matter of damnation, without hope or chance of pardon. The people on the bank who act as watermen, are not influenced by these superstitions; but to Indians in general Mr. Shakespear's bridge will be most valuable. The span of this bridge, which is strong enough to bear a field-piece,

TIMIDITY OF BENGALEES.

85

is 320 feet in length, its breadth 8; its flooring is composed of stout bamboos, connected by coir-rope, with a net-work hand-rail on either side, also of coir, as are the shrouds and principal tackling which support the whole. The appearance of the bridge is light and graceful, and its motion on passing over it not sufficient to be either dangerous or alarming.

My wife tells me a curious circumstance which has occurred in my absence, illustrative of the timid character which seems to belong to the Bengalees. The coachman had asked leave to go with me to Calcutta; and as the carriage-horses were consequently idle, she ordered the saeeses to lead them out for exercise. Some demur took place, and on asking the reason, she was actually told that they were afraid! She insisted, however, and the horses, when they appeared, were quiet as lambs. The men at first, out of pure precaution, had buckled up their heads so tight, that they could scarcely breathe, and when ordered to unloose them, held them as if they had tygers in a leash; yet the horses, as I have before observed, were quiet, and these are men who have been all their lives in the stable! I have, indeed, understood from many quarters, that the Bengalees are regarded as the greatest cowards in India; and that partly owing to this reputation, and partly to their inferior size, the Sepoy regiments are always recruited from Bahar and the upper provinces. Yet that little army with which Lord Clive did such wonders, was chiefly raised from Bengal. So much