whether any master of the art could have greatly improved their appearance. It was suggested to the profane mind that women so unattractive, having failed to secure monopoly of a husband, had, with the patient resignation of their sex, finally contented themselves with a share.

The peculiarity of personal appearance was marked by a little incident of street travel. Standing in Tribune Avenue, a stream of people suddenly issued from a large building, and made their way through the throng already gathered on the side-walks. It was borne in upon me that it would be necessary to modify the note already taken-that after long and careful survey of a Mormon crowd, whether in the streets or the Tabernacle, there was not only not a pretty face among the women, but not one otherwise than actually plain. Of this new tributary to the crowd out of every twenty women there were at least half a dozen pretty faces. They were better dressed and altogether different in manner, laughing and chatting, and looking generally as if they were glad to be alive. Speaking of this to a resident in the Avenue, he solved the mystery This was a Gentile crowd coming out of a Gentile theatre, where they had been enjoying a morning performance.

Outsiders, like myself, hastily assume that the Mormon City is a city of Mormons. This is a mistake. Out of an estimated population of twenty-seven thousand, one-fifth are Gentiles, and their number is increasing at least pari passu with that of the saints. The Gentiles cannot turn the Mormons out of the valley which they have made a blooming paradise; but neither can they themselves be kept out, though their incursion and increase are looked upon with jealousy and dislike by the Mormon leaders. It was not altogether unconnected with this matter that Brigham Young had the revelation unfavourable to mining as an occupation. To encourage mining would be to open the door to an influx of Gentiles, a thing by all means to be avoided. But the Gentiles, not being hampered by belief in the Divine origin of this revelation, and there being much ore in the neighbourhood, have proceeded to work it, and find Salt Lake City convenient headquarters. The only thing that can be done in the circumstances is to stand as far apart as possible, and contiguity of neighbourhood has not lessened the ill-will that has always existed between Mormons and law-abiding Americans.

The Tabernacle stands in the centre of the

city, broad streets radiating from it to the four points of the compass. It is a curious structure, the like of which was never seen on sea or land, a circumstance explained by the fact that its architectural points were also a Divine revelation to Brigham Young. It has a domelike roof, covered with grey wooden tiles. The roof, which is oval in shape, 250 feet long, and 150 feet wide, hangs low on forty-six stone piers, the interspaces being filled up with doors and windows. The whole affair is strikingly like a prodigious tortoise that has lost its way, and is thinking which turn it shall take. This is the summer meeting-house of the Mormons, and has neither means of lighting nor of giving heat. Close at hand is the winter church, more ordinary looking, as being the work of a human architect. On the other side of the Tabernacle, making with it and the church three sides of an irregular square, the Temple is slowly rising. This is a more pretentious building than either of the others. Over two millions of dollars have already been spent upon it, and it is still far from complete, though President Taylor expects it will be finished in the course of two years.

Gentiles are permitted to enter the Tabernacle and attend the services, in the hope that

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some seed falling by the wayside may bear precious fruit. The Temple will be kept sacred from all pollution. Only members of the Church will pass its portals, and here will be carried on those special ministrations directed in "The Book of Doctrine and Covenants," written by the inspired pen of Joseph Smith. The interior of the Tabernacle is plainly furnished with benches; a broad gallery runs round it, and at one end is a raised platform, flanked on either side by galleries chiefly occupied by the choir. Here also is the organ, which in size is equalled only by two others throughout the Statesone in Boston and the other in Plymouth Church. It was, an apostle told me, built on the premises to avoid catastrophe in the way of finding it impossible otherwise to get it within the walls. The roof is hung with garlands of evergreens. These did not form part of the original revelation. It was a

happy thought inspired by the occurrence of a Sunday-school festival. The decoration so greatly improved the appearance of the vast bare hall, that the garlands have been left there, though they are old and withered now.

Long before two o'clock, the hour named for the afternoon conference, a stream of human population converged upon the Taber

nacle, entering by its many doors, and speedily flooding the place. When President Taylor took his seat there was not a bench anywhere vacant. A considerable majority of the congregation were women, plain-looking, hardworking, care-worn creatures, evidently glad of the little excitement brought into their dull lives by this festival. Next to the women, perhaps running them pretty close in the matter of numbers, were the children. There was no mistaking their presence. Long before the organ sounded or the choir rose to sing the babies began, squall answering to squall throughout the vast edifice. Occasionally one choked with howling, and after being vainly beaten on the back and shaken up, was carried out. But two or three were nothing in such a multitude, bawling and squealing, and the crowing went on without distinguishable decrease in volume.

The proceedings were opened by prayer offered by a rugged-looking elder, who stood by the rostrum with horny hands rigidly uplifted. President Taylor occupied a seat in the back row of benches in the gallery immediately behind the rostrum. Beside him sat his two counsellors. In the row immediately before him were the Twelve Apostles. Before these were ranged a body of the Bishops-not