Court, and made their obeisance first to the Mikado, then to the Empress, and retiring backward, disappeared in the gardens. The Mikado stood impassive, staring straight before him; the Empress, like a pretty wax figure endowed with eyes, showed some curious interest in the two or three European guests, but neither acknowledged the salutation. After the first presentations were over the great body of the guests did not advance up the room, but bowed on entering and again on vanishing through the doorway into the garden. At the further end of the grounds there were three bands of music, which incessantly and distractingly played together the melancholy, monotonous tune which is the national anthem of Japan. The only variety contributed to the proceedings by the bands lay in the fact that the one drafted from the navy was clad in scarlet, whilst the army contingent was in light blue.

A magnificent luncheon was spread in a marquee, at the upper end of which was a pavilion tent with a table set at right angles with the longer one. After a due interval the Mikado, with the Empress on his left, and the many-hued Court following, strolled through the grounds towards the tent. The Mikado, who does not speak any language but his own,

halted here and there before one or other of the Foreign Ministers, of whom there was a full muster. His Majesty's conversational powers are not exhaustive. He, without looking at the Minister, addressed a few monosyllabic remarks to the interpreter. The Minister, bowing low, made courteous response, and the image of Imperial authority, as if wound up afresh, moved on, and went through the same formula with the representative of some other of the Great Powers, who are keenly watching the great and interesting country he rules, but does not govern. Several ladies were presented to the Empress, and found in her a less immobile acquaintance.

The Mikado and his consort were led to the table under the smaller tent, where they took their seat at a table loaded with the choicest viands and abundant wine. The princes of the Imperial family, of whom there were some half-dozen present in military or naval uniform, seated themselves at some distance below the Mikado, on the right. The princesses sat below the Empress, on the left, and below them were disposed the purple and green clad ladies of the Court. Mr. Inouyé, who had stood on the left of the Empress during the presentations, now hospitably engaged himself on behalf of the guests.

No one would have guessed that the plainly dressed gentleman who always kept in the background, looking from afar upon the pageantry of the Court, was Mr. Ito, one of the main factors in the new Empire of Japan. He now busied himself carrying about plates of salad, cold meat, and glasses of wine, his principal State care seeming to be that the Emperor's guests should feel themselves perfectly at home.

Wine was poured out and served to the circle at the Imperial table; but, following the example of the Mikado, no one ate or drank, and his Majesty, after staring straight before him for the space of a quarter of an hour, rose and passed away, with the rainbow throng of red, and green, and purple ladies in

CHAPTER XVI.

ACROSS COUNTRY IN JINRIKISHAS.

THE ball at the Foreign Office was over at half-past one, and four hours later I was awakened by the chamberman at the hotel announcing "bath leddy." Had I been able to consult my private inclination I would have let the bath remain ready for an indefinite period, and continued my sleep. But we were on a pleasure trip, and in order thoroughly to enjoy yourself private inclination must frequently be sacrificed. We were bound for Nikko, taking the first stage of the journey by train, and the station was about as far off as it could possibly get and still be in Tokio. We were in the jinrikishas by a quarter-past six, and the train started at seven. But Ito, our guide, was already fearful that we should miss the train. Two men were harnessed to each jinrikisha, and away we went at incredible speed through waking, yawning Tokio.

A jinrikisha man thoroughly enjoys himself when he is running in couples with a train of jinrikishas. The spirit of competition sends him bounding along at racing speed, which he will keep up for miles. The way he turns a corner is enough to whiten the hair in a day's journey. "Aye, heep!" he shouts, and dashes round, with the jinrikisha swaying over on one wheel. Before we had gone half a mile I felt thoroughly convinced that the jinrikishas would be in time to catch the train; but where I should be, depended upon the particular corner at which the rickety little carriage gave an extra lurch.

It seems cruel work for the men, who frequently run along bareheaded, with the perspiration dropping off their face like rain; but both they and their fares get used to it in time, and certainly the men make no complaint. Count Zalusky, the Austrian Minister, who has just arrived and sees Japan for the first time, tells me he has already learned one Japanese word, which being translated means "go slower." This he constantly addresses to his jinrikisha men when they break into anything beyond a trot. But whether owing to imperfect accent or to wilful disregard of the kindly meant injunction, he finds that nothing comes of it.