THE MYSTIC FLOWERY LAND.

I. IN SHANGHAI.

OT the close of a bright May afternoon, in the year 1887, the trim little barquentine-which had borne me safely across the summer seas from the sandy shores of Africa-stood in once more towards the welcome land-the mystic "Flowery Land," or "Celestial Empire," of which I had heard and half-incredulously read so much. about in the time-honoured travels of Marco Polo, and where the wonders of an ancient and ingenious civilization tempt the eager traveller to explore.

Onward we sailed, with square yards and wind on the starboard quarter. The nearer we approached the low-lying land the yellower became the waters, until we swiftly, and almost silently, glided into the Huang-pu river; and the tired eye, long accustomed to the dreary ocean deserts, was gladdened and relieved by masses of bright green foliage waving above the long rushes that line the muddy banks, past which we quickly sped, occasionally obtaining a glimpse of the surrounding country, which teemed with well-cultivated garden patches and paddy-fields. These were studded at intervals with thick clumps of graceful bamboos, from amongst whose bright foliage the thatched or tiled roof of many a snug little farmhouse peeped out with pleasing homeliness and simplicity.

Running close under the formidable embanked fortifications, we soon descried a straggling town that comprised several whitewashed buildings, above which the tricoloured French flag was flying. Here I saw the first Celestial it had ever been my fortune to behold

in the archaic land and comely dress of his forefathers, and with his glossy length of carefully plaited queue, with silken-tasseled end, almost trailing on the ground.

I did not admire his cunning and impassive countenance, with its upward-curving brows, small watchful eyes, and sensual mouth which seemed to mechanically shape itself into a half-perceptible sneer as he regarded our smart little craft, and no doubt unfavourably compared it with the primitive box-bowed junks of his own proud land, several of which we soon passed-with their unwieldy-looking lateen sails, their shroudless, raking masts, high, gaudily-embellished sterns, and low eyed-bows. No junk would be complete, or even tenable, without the large ogling eyes on either side of her head; and if you ask a Chinaman the reason of this, he will answer with his self-convincing adage, "no can see, no can savee!" So implicitly does he believe in this ocular demonstration that he will unflinchingly try to sail or yuhloa* his vessel across the bows of a steamer going at full speed, just to show their talismanic power off to the heartily despised fan-quai, or "foreign devil," as they universally denominate all foreigners. Hence the number and frequency of collisions between European and native craft, generally with disastrous results to the latter.

But the busy mind does not dwell for any lengthened period on one subject, however interesting it may be, when one is entering upon the thought-inspiring sights and subjects of a new country. So we must quickly pass along up the broadening river towards the pretty Italian-like villas that began to show themselves on the starboard bow as we approached the port of Shanghai, which is situated about twelve miles inland on the west bank of the fastflowing river, and lies in lat. 31 14' N. and long. 121° 28′ E., being built on and surrounded by a vast alluvial plain, intersected with numerous lakes and streams, and relieved at long intervals by a few isolated hills.

Several brightly-painted shoe-shaped boats, or sampans, now dashed alongside, and in a moment the ship's side was one mass of struggling humanity. Dozens of half-nude coolies, bum-boat

* To scull with a long oar or sweep over the stern.

men, and respectably-dressed Chinese tradesmen swarmed up the sides on long bamboo boat-hooks and ropes, like a troop of demoralised monkeys, jabbering, yelling, scrambling, and fighting, as they gained the deck and rushed aft to chin chint the captain, whom they obsequiously addressed in approved pidgin English.* Amongst the crowd were Jack Ah Sin, the "numba one washee man;" Tom Ah Fat, the "velly square tailor," who had, according to his own unbiased statement, "long time savee capitain," whom he was graciously pleased to designate as a "numba one genteman," who had most commendably "pay poor tailor man good chance allo time." Then came Mr. Ching Fong, the indefatigable compradore, who also "saveed" the worthy skipper and seemed very anxious to ascertain "what ting he wanchee-what ting he likee chowchow," and was most desirous that he should " come look see housee" where "allo ting have got."

All these very honest people spoke and gesticulated at the same time as they tried to outdo one another in luring the halfdistracted captain into all manner of profitable bargains and inexpensive outlays. One burly "Celestial" artist, with brush in one hand and canvas in the other, almost forced the unfortunate skipper through the glass skylight, so eager was he to paint his bewhiskered face, for the small sum of "six dolla." But in vain did he gaze with rapture on the sun-tanned countenance of the old man of the sea who had so suddenly become "too muchee handsome," and with the rest he was at length driven over the side at the rope's end. But in spite of the fast descending blows and the suddenness of his despatch, he smilingly departed with many gracious compliments and humble thanks, fully intending to renew the acquaintance on the first favourable opportunity.

We were fortunate enough to have a berth allotted to us at once, alongside the old Ningpo Wharf, as it is called, which is situated at the lower, or east end of the settlement in Hongkew. Directly the hawsers were made fast and the gangway placed

Words of salutation used in the same manner and in place of "Good-day." * The word pidgin is the Chinese pronunciation of the word "business.” Pidgin-English is a middle course gibberish-English words adapted to the defective pronunciation of the Chinese.

in position, I gladly stepped ashore, and was almost immediately surrounded by a motley crowd of indifferently-clad coolies who were stading between the shafts of their respective rickshas, which looked like miniature hansom cabs, with movable waterproof hoods. Jumping into one of these handy little vehicles, I told the wiry "Celestial" who acted as my steed to take me to the nearest hotel. He seemed to understand. With a knowing nod and a diabolical grin, he firmly gripped the shafts near the end, and, raising them to a level, made a few preliminary hops and jerky pulls which settled, as we gained way, into a steady trot; and off we went at an incredibly smart pace.

Once clear of the wharves we entered the Broadway Road which runs parallel with the river, which is hidden from view by native shops that line both sides of the fairly broad thoroughfare.,

The sun had now gone down, and darkness had-as it always does in tropical lands-suddenly closed in; but with little effect, for the whole place was beautifully illuminated with electric lights which opened and enhanced to my wondering gaze an entirely new panorama of quaint oriental life.

On either side were shops, each one with its long black, red or gold signboard, with the proprietor's "honourable name” inscribed in large gold or vermilion characters. These brightcoloured boards were suspended above the footway in a most conspicuous and obtrusive manner, foreboding danger to the head of any unwary pedestrian who might happen to be above the average height.

Independent of this, each shop had its own peculiar transparent paper lantern with the proprietor's name painted on in red-red being a favourite colour, as it is emblematical of life-as white is, to them, of death. These fantastic lanterns, besides answering well as an advertisement, and showing to advantage the exterior of the shop and its wares, greatly improve the aspect of the street.

Although the pavement was fairly broad, there seemed to be very little room on it owing to the many small stalls which occupy a portion of the frontage of nearly every shop, whose tenant charges the stall-holder for this privilege, and thus reduces his own rental by leasing public property-committing a nuisance