and in two hours collected more curious specimens than he could ever find names for. The approach of night forced him reluctantly to desist from his labours.

*

Dr. Covel having left them to return to Constantinople, they continued their route on horseback; Mr. Wheler, as we are informed by his vivacious fellow-traveller, not a little annoyed at the want of bridle, saddle, and stirrups, like the Marcus Aurelius of the capitol. When they were only two short days' journey from Smyrna, they quitted the direct road, traversed a pleasant country interspersed with woods and pastures, and arrived at Thyatira on the nineteenth day of October, 1675. The exact situation of this place

Latin poets. Among other plants, the Hypericum Olympicum, or St. John's Wort of Olympus, discovered upon this mountain, was introduced by Sir George Wheler into England.

(Linn. Systema Naturæ, VII. 510.) Many of the first botanists of the seventeenth century acknowledged their obligations to Sir George for his contributions. Among these were Morison, Plukenet, and above all, the pious, humble, and modest Ray, the friend of Willoughby, two names never to be mentioned without sentiments of esteem and veneration.

* His vivacity, however, was not poetical for speaking of the Sorga and it's illustrious neighbour, Petrarch, he informs us that il y composa ees beaux vers, qui ont fait l'admiration de son siecle; et l'on dit en effet qu'elle a vers sa source des endroits merveilleux pour les enthousiasmes des poëtes. Mais, comme je ne pretens point à cette qualité, je ne m'y arrêtai pas! &c. (i. 10.)

was not known, until the curiosity and piety of Mr. Paul Ricaut, the English Consul at Smyrna, discovered it from numerous coins and inscriptions *. "This," says Mr. Wheler, " is a very ancient city in Lydia, or in the confines of Mysia (a colony of the Macedonians, according to Strabo) situate almost in the mid-way between Pergamo and Sardis, in a very delightful plain : but since more famous in Holy Writ, being one of those Churches of Asia the Son of God vouchsafed to write to by the holy Apostle St. John; showing them what they must look for, if they did not reclaim themselves from the fornication with which they were polluted through the persuasion of some, who taught them to eat meats offered unto idols, thereby to dissemble the truth. Upon which warning how well they reformed, is uncertain: but certain, that Christianity is almost extinct in this place; there not being above ten Christians in the town, destitute both of church and priest. Their patience and suffering, undoubtedly, is great among that disproportionable number of infidels: for the town is very populous in Turks, and may contain four or five thousand souls. It's ancient temporal, as well as spiritual,

be

* From a coin in Sir George Wheler's collection it may inferred, that this city was founded by the Romans; the reverse of the coin being a figure of Romulus and Remus sucking a wolf, with these letters, OTATEIPHNON.

(Travels, III. 232.)

beauty is destroyed; it's marble buildings are buried in their own ruins, houses built of clods of earth and dried in the sun only remaining, and it's once-glorious name obliterated." M. Spon has remarked, that the Christians in this city are only a few slaves and strangers, who support themselves by labour' *.

About seven miles from Smyrna they were met by Mr. Ricaut †, his Majesty's Consul, with fifty English merchants, who had provided a collation for them; and having drank the King's health, advanced in regular order into Smyrna. From the Consul, and from Mr. Lake the English Chaplain, they received many acts of kindness, as

* I. 300.

+ The English gentlemen, who after the Restoration were appointed Embassadors and Consuls in the different states of Italy, and at Constantinople, Smyrna, and other places in Asia, were truly respectable. Among these may be classed Sir Paul Ricaut. C'est un très-galant homme (says M. Spon) fort aimé et respecté de tous les Francs. C'est lui qui a écrit l'état de l'Empire Ottoman, et presentement il travaille à la continuation de l'Histoire Ottomane depuis Sultan Mourat, que les Turcs n'ont jamais rommé Amurat comme nous faisons. Il nous fit aussi voir un livre qu'il avoit avancé, et qui traite de l'état present de l'Eglise Grecque. Il n'y a personne, qui se puisse mieux acquitter que lui de semblables ouvrages. Il a été long-tems Secretaire de l'Ambassade d'Angleterre sous Monsieur le Comte de Winchelseay, et il sçait parfaitement le Grec ancien et moderne, le Turc, le Latin, l'Italien, et le François, outre l'Anglois qui est sa langue maternelle. (I. 311.)

well as from the whole factory, who lived together in great harmony.

Mr. Wheler, having finished his historical detail of the antiquity of Smyrna under the Heathen Emperors, observes that "what was and ever shall be it's true glory was, their early reception of the Gospel of Christ Jesus; glorious in the testimony he hath given of them; and happy in the faithful promises he hath made to them. Let us consider, therefore, what he writeth to them by the Evangelist St. John, Apoc. ii. 9. I know thy works and tribulation, and poverty; but thou art rich. And I know the blasphemy of them that say,They are Jews, the synagogue of Satan.

and are not: but are Fear none of those Behold, the

things, which thou shalt suffer. Devil shall cast some of you into prison, that ye may be tried, and ye shall have tribulation ten days. Be thou faithful unto death, and I will give thee a crown of life. Agreeably to which, in those times this Church was as a noble army of martyrs, whereof St. Polycarp their pastor, as their lieutenant-general, was martyred, either in the Theatre or Cirque, by wild beasts*. His tomb yet remains on the hill bounding the northside of the Cirque, and is visited with great devotion: but his true glory is on high. These

* Sir George Wheler, writing probably from memory, is here inaccurate. Polycarp suffered death by fire.

Christians do yet remain considerable, and in a far better condition than any of the rest of the Seven Churches. The Greeks, that are here, have but two churches; yet they are numerous, this place being the seat of their Metropolitan. But beside them here is a great number of Christians of all nations, sects, and languages. The Latin church hath a monastery of Franciscans; the Armenians have one church: but the English, which are the most considerable number next the Greeks and Armenians, have only a chapel in the Consul's house; which is a shame, considering the great wealth they heap up here beyond all the rest yet they commonly excel them in their pastor. For I esteem a good English priest an Evangelist, if compared with any of the rest." *

The two cities, Ephesus and Smyrna, have been termed the eyes' of Asia Minor.

The

travellers were extremely desirous of seeing the former place, which was not far distant f. In the course of their journey thither, they met six horsemen prepared to attack them. Their deliverance upon this occasion they attributed, not to the protection of the Janizary appointed to attend them, but "to the merciful hand of God

Travels, III. 245.

+ According to Dr. Chandler, they are distant from each other 320 stadia.