inquire where we could find a large map of the canal, for we had tried in vain at Dijon. He met us in his hall, and informed us that if it was our intention to travel by water from Dijon to the Rhine, we had nothing to do but to go! We thanked him for his kindness and wished him good morning.

As we were on our way to the Palace (Palais des Etats; and formerly belonging to the Dukes of Burgundy), the Doctor suddenly cried out—

Hallo, Captain! there's a charming filly, by George !'

Charming filly! where?' said the Captain.

"Just on a-head, there, a little way-don't you see? Dark chesnut mane, rather goodish eye, clean about the pastern; leetle too high in the wither for me-but there's action for you! I wonder if she'd be quiet to drive in double harness? inclined at all to bolt with a fellow, eh, Cap'n?'

'My dear fellow,' replied the Captain, 'what are you raving about? I don't see anything in the shape of a horse in the

'Horse, you muff! come along, I say, there she into the bookseller's, and I want a conversation book.'

goes

'Stop a bit,' said the Professor, 'you don't

want a conversation book, you know, they are not much use to anybody; besides, I don't intend to give you any money to buy one, I can tell you.'

And so the poor man was constrained to go and pretend to be very much interested in some prints in the bookseller's window. He was doomed to be disappointed, however, for his filly had bolted.

Dijon itself is situated in a large plain (some parts of which are frequently overflown by the waters of the Saône), bounded by the range of the Côte d'Or on one side, and the Jura on the other. The public buildings of Dijon are remarkable for their very massive character, the churches have almost a fortress-like appearance in solidity.' The fléche of St. Benigne (the cathedral, which is somewhat celebrated) is 'an elongated pyramid or obelisk of wood, and possesses no beauty except from its height and its general harmony with the rest of the structure.' It is, however, also remarkable from the fact that the angles of the spire do not run in straight lines from the base to the top, but are twisted spirally round the flêche; this adds greatly to the beauty of the building, although whether it was built thus in the first instance is a matter of doubt.

In the Museum the things most worthy of note

are the tombs of Philippe-le-Hardi and his son Jeansans-Peur; being very similar in construction, it will suffice to mention the particulars of one only. 'The sides of the tomb,' that is of the father's, ' are ornamented with singular beauty; instead of niches or panels filled with statues in basso-relievo, the dado is here surrounded by a miniature cloister, worked most delicately and elaborately in the finest alabaster. The little pillars, which stand quite free, sustain canopies and finials of the richest pattern, and in each division are the statues of one or two friars. All are represented as mourners, but with the most skilful variety of feeling: one in all the anguish of grief, a second equally afflicted but tranquilly resigned, a third stupified with sorrow; all as true as if you had the convent before you. The draperies are admirable, and whether we consider the goodness of the drawing or the skill of the execution, we must confess that it would be hardly possible to rival the skill of Claus Slater, the Dutchman (for he was the artist), in the present day.'-Murray.

CHAPTER V.

ST. JEAN DE L'OSNE.

Quoique leurs chapeaux soient bien laids;

Moi j'aime les Anglais :

Ils ont un si bon caractère !

Comme ils sont polis, et surtout

Que leurs plasirs sont de bon goût.

BÉRANGER.

NE evening we were gradually nearing St.

Jean de l'Osne, a small town, which, from the primitive customs of its inhabitants, would

seem to be cut off from We had just left the Canal de Bourgogne, and had entered the Saône, whose course we had to follow for some few miles previous to our reaching the Canal du Rhône au Rhin. The

D

34

ST. JEAN DE L'OSNE.

Professor left us for a moment to get the necessary papers, laissez-passer, &c., and in the mean time the collection of small boys, who had discovered us at some distance from the town, continued adding to their numbers until they assumed the appearance of a respectable crowd.

Having procured the laissez-passer, which cost us the extravagant sum of one penny, we pulled on towards the town, accompanied by the crowd of people on the bank, most of whom were breathless from another cause than that of astonishment, long before they reached the bridge of St. Jean de l'Osne. The Professor again landed, and found a very comfortable lodging at the Hôtel de Commerce, not very far from the spot at which we had set him ashore, with a convenient court-yard in front, where we could safely stow the boat; accordingly we commenced unloading her, and carried the knapsacks, &c., into the hotel.

Meanwhile the crowd was still increasing, and the excitement becoming intense; everybody was rushing about here and there, to catch if it were a glimpse only of les Anglais and their petite chaloupe. Having cleared the boat of her light cargo, we ran her ashore and commenced carrying