The crowd on the Meidân was great, and very picturesque. The music con threw down various articles to the bystanders, who caught them with great eagerness; but I was too far off to ascertain what they were. They then one by one raised their joined hands over their heads, and threw themselves down with a force which must have proved fatal had not their fall been broken by some means or other. The crowd was too dense to allow of my discovering how this was effected; but it is certain they were unhurt, as they immediately re-ascended, and performed the same ceremonies many times. On the 10th we were awakened before daybreak, by the discordant sounds of native musical instruments, and immediately mounted our horses, and rode to the Meidân. As the morning advanced we could see an immense crowd coming down the Chowringhee road, which was augmented by persons joining it from all the streets and lanes of the city. We entered the crowd, taking the precaution of making the saees walk close by my horse's head, who was frightened at the music, dancing, and glare of torches, accompanied at intervals by the deep sound of the gong. "The double double peal of the drum was there, And the startling sound of the trumpet's blare, And the gong, that seemed with its thunders dread To stun the living, and waken the dead." In the midst of this crowd walked and danced the miserable fanatics, torturing themselves in the most horrible manner, and each surrounded by his own particular band of admirers, with music and torches. ****** Their countenances denoted suffering, but they evidently gloried in their patient endurance, and probably were supported by the assurance that they were expiating the sins of the past year by suffering voluntarily, and without a groan, this agony. We had considerable difficulty in making our way through the crowd; but when we had arrived at a short distance from the scene of action, the coup d'ail was beautifully picturesque, and forcibly reminded me of an English race course: flags were flying in every direction,--booths were erected with stages for dancing; the flowing white garments of the natives gave the impression of a numerous assemblage of well-dressed women; and though on a nearer approach their dingy complexions destroyed the illusion, yet the scene lost nothing of its beauty. I never saw in England such a multitude collected together; but this is one of their most famous festivals, and the people had assembled from all the neighbouring villages. The noise of the music continued till about noon, when the devotees retired to heal their wounds. These are said to be dangerous, and occasionally to prove fatal. One of our servants, a " Musal |sisted chiefly of large double drams, ornamented with plumes of black feathers, like those of a hearse, which rose considerably higher than the heads of the persons who played on them; large crooked trumpets, like the "litui" of the ancients, and small gongs suspended from a bamboo, which rested on the shoulders of two men, the last of whom played on it with a large, thick, and heavy drum-stick, or cudgel. All the persons who walked in the procession, and a large majority of the spectators, had their faces, bodies, and white cotton clothes, daubed all over with vermilion, the latter to a degree which gave them the appearance of being actually dyed rose-colour. They were also crowned with splendid garlands of flowers, with girdles and baldries of the same. Many trophies and pageants of different kinds were paraded up and down, on stages, drawn by horses, or bullocks. Some were mythological, others were imitations of different European figures, soldiers, ships, &c., and, in particular, there was one very large chee," or torch-bearer, of the lowest caste (for it seems that none of a higher sort practise these cruelties), ran about the house with a small spear through his tongue, begging money from his fellow-servants; this man appeared stupified with opium, which I am told is generally taken by these poor wretches, to deaden their feelings; and the parts through which the spears are thrust are said to be previously rubbed for a considerable time, till numbness ensues. In the evening the Bishop walked to the Boitaconnah, the part of the city where the trees for swinging are erected; they are not suffered to be placed near the European residences. He arrived in time to be a spectator of the whole ceremony. The victim was led, covered with flowers, and without any appa rent reluctance, to the foot of the tree: hooks were then thrust through the muscles of his sides, which he endured without shrinking, and a broad bandage was fastened round his waist to prevent the hooks from being torn through by the weight of his body. was then raised up, and whirled round; at first the motion was slow, but by degrees was increased to considerable rapidity. In a few minutes it ceased; and the bystanders were going to let him down, when he made signs that they should proceed: this resolution was received with great applause by the crowd, and after drinking some water he was again spun round.-Extract from the Editor's Journa'. He model of a steam-boat. The devotees went about with small spears through their tongues and arms, and still more with hot irons pressed against their sides. All were naked to the waist, covered with flowers, and plentifully raddled with vermilion, while their long, black, wet hair hung down their backs, almost to their loins. From time to time, as they passed us, they laboured to seem to dance, but in general their step was slow, their countenances expressive of resigned and patient suffering, and there was no appearance, that I saw, of anything like frenzy or intoxication. The peaceableness of the multitude was also as remarkable as its number; no troops were visible, except the two sentries, who at all times keep guard on two large tanks in the Meidân; no police except the usual "Chokeydar," or watchman,* at his post near Allypoor Bridge; yet nothing like quarrelling or rioting occurred, and very little scolding. A similar crowd in England would have shown three boxing-matches in half an hour, and in Italy there would have been half-a-dozen assassinations before night. In the evening I walked in another direction, towards the Boitaconnah, and the streets chiefly occupied by natives. Here I saw the " swinging." April 15.-The weather is now very hot, unusually so, as we are told, owing to the want of that refreshment which | north-westers usually bestow at this time of the year, but my wife and I, by rising at four o'clock, continue to enjoy a delightful ride every morning, though by a little after six the sun is so hot as to drive us in again. We have tried to keep our rooms cool with "tatties," which are mats formed of the kuskos, a peculiar sweet-scented grass, set up before an open window, in the quarter of the prevailing wind, and kept constantly wet by a " bheestie," or water-carrier, on the outside. They These watchmen are less numerous, and not more efficient, than their brethren in the streets of London. They do not cry the hour, but proclaim their wakefulness by uttering loud howls from time to time. They are armed with pistol, sword, and shield.-E are very pleasant when there is a strong wind, but this year four days out of five we have no wind at all. They have also this inconvenience, that if the bheestie neglects his work for a few minutes (and unless one is always watching him he is continually dropping asleep), a stream of hot air enters, which makes the room and the whole house intolerable. We are, therefore, advised to shut up all our windows about eight o'clock every morning, merely agitating the air within by punkahs, and getting rid as much as possible of all outward breezes. Thus we certainly find that the atmosphere within doors is preserved at a much lower temperature than the outward air, i. e. at eighty or eighty-five degrees instead of a hundred. Thus confined, it is, however, close and gravelike: but if we go to an open window or door, it is literally like approaching the mouth of one of the blast-furnaces in Colebrook Dale. April 21.-I entered into my 42nd year. God grant that my future years may be as happy, if he sees good; and better, far better spent than those which are gone by! This day I christened my dear little Harriet. God bless and prosper her with all earthly and heavenly blessings! We had afterwards a great dinner and evening party, at which were present the Governor and Lady Amherst, and nearly all our acquaintance in Calcutta. To the latter I also asked several of the wealthy natives, who were much pleased with the attention, being in fact one which no European of high station in Calcutta had previously paid to any of them. Hurree Mohun Thakoor observing "what an increased interest the presence of females gave to our parties," I reminded him that the introduction of women into society was an ancient Hindoo custom, and only discontinued in consequence of the Mussulman conquest. He assented with a laugh, adding, however, "It is too late for us to go back to the old custom now.' Rhadacant Deb, who overheard us, observed more seriously," It is very true that we did not use to shut up our wo men till the times of the Mussulmans. | But before we could give them the same liberty as the Europeans they must be better educated." I'introduced these Baboos to the chief justice, which pleased them much, though perhaps they were still better pleased with my wife herself presenting them pawn, rose-water, and attar of roses before they went, after the native custom. April 24.-The cholera morbus is making great ravages among the natives. Few Europeans have yet died of it, but to all it is sufficiently near to remind us of our utter dependence on God's mercy, and how near we are in the midst of life to death! Surely there is no country in the world where this recollection ought to be more perpetually present with us than India. All persons experienced in this climate deny that any of the country fevers are contagious. A very blessed circumstance, whatever may be its immediate cause. June 10.-The time that has intervened since the 24th of April has been spent in a very painful manner. I have had to deplore the death of my excellent friend Sir Christopher Puller, and for a considerable time had also to apprehend that it would soon be followed by those of his widow and son; but it pleased God to bless with success Dr. Abel's medical skill, and they embarked for England in the same vessel, which, six weeks before, had brought them out with a husband and father,all happiness, and agreeable anticipation! May God protect and comfort them! During the greater part of last month the weather was intensely hot and very sickly, though a temporary relief was afforded by a few north-westers, accompanied by heavy showers, thunder, and lightning. These storms were some of them very awful at the time, but as they increased in frequency their fury abated, and recently the weather has not been unlike a close damp rainy autumn in England. The change which these storms produced, both on the animal and vegetable creation, is great. The grass and trees, which A always indeed retained a verdure far beyond what I could have expected, have assumed a richer luxuriance. fresh crop of flowers has appeared on many of the trees and shrubs; the mangoes and other fruits have increased to treble and quadruple the bulk which the first specimens exhibited; the starved cattle are seen every where greedily devouring the young grass, which, young as it is, is already up to their knees; the gigantic cranes, most of whom disappeared during the drought, have winged their way back from the Sunderbunds (their summer retreats); the white and red paddy birds are fluttering all over the Meidân; and the gardens, fields, and ditches (and the ground-floors of some of the houses too), swarm with the largest and noisiest frogs I ever saw or heard. One of these frogs I saw, about as large, 1 think, as a good-sized gosling, and very beautiful, being green speckled with black, and almost transparent. Some of the lizards (also green) are very beautiful, but they are less abundant now than they were during the hot season. I have as yet seen in Calcutta neither snake, scorpion, nor centipede, nor any insect more formidable than a long thin starveling sort of hornet, or rather wasp, which has now disappeared. Of the fruits which this season offers, the finest are leeches and mangoes: the first is really very fine, being a sort of plum, with the flavour of a Frontigniac grape. The second is a noble fruit in point of size, being as large as a man's two fists; its flavour is not unlike an apricot, more or less smeared with turpentine. It would not, I think, be popular in England, but in India it may pass for very good, particularly when the terebinthian flavour does not predominate. When not quite ripe it makes an excellent tart. June 14.-I have had a very interesting and awful ceremony to perform in the ordination of Christian David, a native of Malabar, and pupil of Schwartz, who has been for many years a catechist in the employ of the Society for Promoting Christian Knowledge in Ceylon, and now came to me, re commended by Archdeacon Twistle- | tion (though by me it was felt at the ton, and qualified with the title of a same time, in some degree, a terrible colonial chaplaincy by Sir Edward responsibility) of ordaining him priest. Barnes, the governor of the island. God grant that his ministration may be David passed an exceeding good exa- blessed to his own salvation, and that mination, and gave much satisfaction to of many others! He was lodged dur every body by his modesty, good sense, ing his residence in Bengal in the and good manners. He was ordained Bishop's College, and received much deacon on Holy Thursday, on which attention and kindness from Lady Amday also I held my visitation, and had herst and many others. He preached a good attendance of clergy, and a nu- on Thursday evening at the old church, merous audience, notwithstanding the and it was proposed to publish his serearly hour at which it was celebrated. mon; but this I thought it best to disOn Trinity Sunday I had the satisfac- ! courage. CHAPTER V. CALCUTTA TO SIBNIBASHI. Departure-Pinnace-Bengalee Boat-Hindoo Fanatics-North-Wester-Chinsura Ranaghat-Sibnibashi-Ruins-Raja Omichund-Durbar-Decoits. JUNE 15.-This morning I left Cal- | cutta for my visitation through the upper provinces. This excursion, to which both my wife and I had long looked forwards with delightful anticipations, will now become a dreary banishment to me, as the state of her own health, and the circumstance of her having an infant, are considered as insuperable obstacles to her undertaking such a journey. Accompanied by my domestic chaplain, Mr. Stowe, I embarked on board a fine sixteen-oared pinnace for Dacca, which was to be the first station on my visitation. After about two hours' squabbling with the owner and navigators of the vessel, we got under weigh, with a fine south breeze and the flood-tide. Archdeacon Corrie, with his wife and children, accompanied us in a budgerow, and we had two smaller boats-one for cooking, the other for our baggage. We advanced to Barrackpoor that night, and in order to make up for lost time, I urged the boatmen forwards a good while after it was dark, the river being familiar to us all. The lights in Serampoor and Barrackpoor, the tall massive shadows of the Government House, and of two state barges in the river, which, by this uncertain light, appeared like vessels of considerable importance, made our anchoring place very beautiful. Soon after we were made snug for the night a strong storm of rain and wind came on. Our course during this day was pretty steadily north-north-west by quarter west; the distance twenty-four miles. nagore by half-past nine. We there paid the Governor, Mons. Pellissier, a visit, who pressed us to stay to dinner with him, which invitation we accepted. The Governor's house has been much beautified since I was here before, and now has really a very handsome appearance. Between Barrackpoor and Chandernagore are some large and handsome pagodas, which are, however, excelled in beauty by one of a smaller size, under a noble grove of tall trees. It A Bengalee boat is the simplest and rudest of all possible structures. is decked over, throughout its whole length, with bamboo; and on this is erected a low light fabric of bamboo and straw, exactly like a small cottage without a chimney. This is the cabin, baggage-room, &c.; here the passengers sit and sleep; and here, if it be intended for a cooking-boat, are one or two small ranges of brick-work, like English hothearths, but not rising more than a few inches above the deck, with small, round, sugar-loaf holes, like those in a lime-kiln, adapted for dressing victuals with charcoal. As the roof of this apartment is by far too fragile for men to stand or sit on, and as the apartment itself takes up nearly two-thirds of the vessel, upright bamboos are fixed by its side, which support a kind of grating of the same material, immediately above the roof, on which, at the height probably of six or eight feet above the surface of the water, the boatmen sit or stand to work the vessel. They have, for oars, long bamboos, with circular boards at the end, a longer one of the same sort to steer with, a long rough bamboo for |