Ox the 27th of December I paid a visit | of two days to the Governor of Barrackpoor. I went by water early enough in the morning to preach to the congregation, which, for want of a church, assembles in the great hall of the Government-house. The distance is about twenty-four miles, which, with a favourable tide and a good set of rowers, may be ascended in two hours and a half, and descended in less than two hours. The river continues of nearly the same width as at Calcutta ; its banks are covered with fruit trees and villages, with many very handsome pagodas, of which buildings Calcutta only offers some small, mean, and neglected specimens. The general style of these buildings is a large square court, sometimes merely surrounded by a low wall, with brick balustrades, plastered so as to resemble stone, or indented at the top, with two or sometimes four towers at the angles, generally, in the present day, of Grecian architecture, and ornamented with pilasters, balustrades, and friezes. In the centre of the principal front is, for the most part, an entrance, resembling in its general character, and style of arrangement, the beautiful Propylæum at Chester Castle. When the pagoda adjoins the river, a noble flight of steps, the whole breadth of the portico, generally leads from the water to this entrance. Sometimes the whole court is surrounded by a number of square towers, detached by a small interval from each other, and looking not unlike tea-canisters, having such a propylæum as I have described in the centre of the principal front.

In the middle of the quadrangle, or

Confirmation-Governor-General's

at least in the middle of one of its sides, opposite to the main entrance, is the temple of the principal deity, sometimes octagonal, with pinnacles and buttresses, greatly resembling a Gothic Chapter House, but in some instances taller and larger, with three domes, one large in the centre, and a smaller at each side, with three gilded ornaments on the summit of each, extremely like the old churches in Russia. All these buildings are vaulted with brick, and the manner in which the Hindoos raise their square or oblong domes seems to me simple and ingenious, and applicable to many useful purposes.

It is very seldom that anything like a congregation assembles in these temples. A few priests and dancing-women live in them, whose business it is to keep the shrines clean, to receive the offerings of the individuals who come from time to time to worship, and to beat their gongs in honour of their idols, which is done three or four times in the twenty-four hours. On more solemn occasions, however, wealthy Hindoos give money to illuminate the building, and throw up fire-works, which are to be had in Calcutta of great excellence and beauty. And in one instance, which I omitted to mention before, on the celebration of the festival of the goddess Kali, at the pagoda of Kalighât, near Russipugla, I saw the towers at the corners of the building hung round with an immense quantity of gilt paper, tinsel and flowers, the court crowded with coloured plaster statues, as big or bigger than life, representing Sepoys, horse and foot, drawn up in the act of presenting arms, and a figure in their front on ar

elephant, to represent the GovernorGeneral, also in the act of taking off his cocked hat. In the middle of the court, and before the gate of the sanctuary, was a very large temporary pavilion, I should suppose sixty feet long by about twenty, composed of coarse white cotton, but glittering with ribands, gilding, tinsel, and flounces of various coloured silks, with slender gilded pillars, overshadowing a vast plateau, for it had exactly this appearance, of plaster filled with painted gods and goddesses, Kali and all her family, with all their respective heads and arms, while the whole building rang with the clamour, tinkling, and strumming of gongs, bells, and stringed instruments. Yet there were not many worshippers even then. These pagodas are often endowed with lands as well as rentcharges on lands, though some of them depend entirely on voluntary contributions. Most of the larger ones are kept externally very neat, and diligently whitewashed, while the Grecian ornaments of which I have spoken, and which must have been borrowed from the Europeans, are so many evidences of the repairs bestowed on them occasionally and of late years.

During my stay at Barrackpoor, I witnessed one custom of the Hindoos which I could not comprehend; a jackall was caught in a trap and killed, and as soon as the breath was out of his body, all the servants of that religion ran forward to wash their hands in his blood,-which I am told they always do whenever they kill, or witness the death of, a wild beast.

The Indian squirrel, which abounds in the park, is smaller than ours, more of an ash-colour, with two black and white streaks down its back; and not only lives in trees, but in the thatch of houses. I saw several playing about the eaves of my bungalow, and at first mistook them for rats, which at a small distance they much resemble.

December 28.-I went this morning to return a visit which I had received from Colonel Krefting, the Danish Governor of Serampoor, a fine old veteran, who has been above forty years resident in Bengal, yet still preserves the

apparently robust health and florid old age of Norway, of which country he is a native. With him I found his secretary, an officer of the name of Mansback, also a Norwegian, whose mother I had met with many years back, at the house of Mr. Rosencrantz, at Hafslan, on the Falls of the Glommer. My conversation with them renewed some very agreeable recollections on both sides, and I was glad to hear of the health of some of those who had formerly shown me kindness, while they were much interested by my account of the Knudtzons, of Penrhyn's travels in the province of Bergen, and of the glacier which he had discovered.

Serampoor is a handsome place, kept beautifully clean, and looking more like an European town than Calcutta, or any of its neighbouring cantonments. The guard, which was turned out to receive me, consisted of perhaps a dozen Sepoys in the red Danish uniform; they were extremely clean and soldierlike looking men, and the appearance of the place flourishing. During the long war in which England was engaged, and so long as the Danes remained neutral, it was really so, and a vast deal of commerce was carried on

under the benefit of its flag. At the time of the Copenhagen rupture, Lord Minto sent two or three companies of infantry to take possession of it. Since that period the settlement has grievously declined, and so much the faster, because no stipulation was made by the Danish Government at home at the time of the general pacification for the continuance of a grant of two hundred chests of opium yearly, which, previous to the rupture, the English East India Company were accustomed to furnish to the Danish Government of Serampoor at the cost price, thereby admitting them to a share in the benefits of this important monopoly. This grant has been earnestly requested since by Colonel Krefting, but hitherto without success, and in consequence he complains that the revenues of the settlement do not meet its current expenses, and that the Government have been utterly unable to relieve the sufferers by the late inundation. Of Colonel

In the streets I met two or three Europeans smoking cigars, and apparently with little to do, having almost all the characteristic features and appearance of Frenchmen.

can.

Many persons of different nations, who like a cheaper residence than Calcutta, take houses here. One of these was the abode of Mr. Brown, many years senior Presidency Chaplain, and the friend of Henry Martyn. A deserted pagoda near it, once the temporary residence of the latter, attracted my attention. It was in Mr. Brown's time fitted up with books, and a bed for occasional visitors at his house, but it is now quite empty and ruinous.

The administration of Serampoor, as it respects the police, is extremely good, and does much credit to Colonel Krefting, and his Danish magistrates. During the late inundation he was called on for more vigorous measures than usual, since a numerous band of "Decoits," or river-pirates, trusting to the general confusion and apparently defenceless state of the place, attacked his little kingdom, and began to burn and pillage with all the horrors which attend such inroads in this country. The Colonel took the field at the head of his dozen sepoys, his silver-sticks, policemen, and sundry volunteers, to the amount of perhaps thirty, killed some of the ruffians, and took several prisoners, whom he hanged next morning without deigning to ask aid from his powerful neighbours at Barrackpoor.

From Serampoor I proceeded to Chandernagore, where I had also to return a visit to Monsieur Pelissier, the French Governor. It is, I think, a smaller town than the former, and with a less striking appearance from the river; the houses are mostly small, and the streets presented a remarkable picture of solitude and desertion. I saw no boats loading or unloading at the quay, no porters with burdens in the streets, no carts, no market-people, and in fact only a small native bazaar, and

I had half an hour's very agreeable conversation with the Governor, and promise myself much pleasure from his acquaintance. He is only just arrived at this place from Pondicherry, where he had passed several years, and of which he seems very fond of the climate of Bengal he complains as being too hot and too cold, and says that his family have suffered in their healths during their residence here.

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I had about this time an opportunity of observing a custom which prevails with different classes of Hindoos and Mussulmans, of making presents to their masters or superiors at Christmas, of fruit, game, fish, pastry, and sweetmeats. Some gifts of this sort came to us from different baboos of our acquaintance. Our head servants sent presents of plum-cakes, fish, and fruit; and even our poor bearers came in a body, their faces decorated with an extra quantity of raddle, chalk, and tinfoil, to beg my acceptance of a basket of plantains and oranges. The outer gates of most of the houses in Calcutta and Chowringhee are decorated with garlands of flowers, tinsel, and giltpaper. These Christmas-boxes are said to be an ancient custom here, and I could almost fancy that our name of box for this particular kind of present, the derivation of which is not very easy to trace in the European languages, is a corruption of" buckshish," a gift or gratuity, in Turkish, Persian, and Hindoostanee. There have been undoubtedly more words brought into our language from the East than I used to suspect. "Cash," which here means small money, is one of these; but of the process of such transplantation I can form no conjecture.

January 1, 1824.-I this day preached at the Cathedral, it being an old and good custom in India always to begin the year with the solemn observation of the day of the Circumcision; there was a good congregation. I received

to-day an explanation of some very singular images, which stand in different streets of Calcutta and its neighbourhood, representing a female figure, or at least the figure of a youth, rudely carved in wood and painted, standing erect on the bank of a disproportionately little elephant, and with a monstrous sort of spire or shrine on his head. They are used, it appears, as a sort of hatchment, being erected on the death of wealthy Hindoos, near their dwelling-houses, but, differing in this respect from hatchments, are generally suffered to remain till they fall in pieces. These are of wood. Most of the Hindoo idols are of clay, and very much resemble in composition, colouring, and execution, though of course not in form, the more paltry sort of images which are carried about in England for sale by the Lago di Como people. At certain times of the year, great numbers of these are, in fact, hawked about the streets of Calcutta in the same manner, on men's heads. This is before they have been consecrated, which takes place on their being solemnly washed in the Ganges by a Brahmin pundit. Till this happens they possess no sacred character, and are frequently given as toys to children, and used as ornaments of rooms, which when hallowed they could not be, without giving great offence to every Hindoo who saw them thus employed. I thought it remarkable that though most of the male deities are represented of a deep brown colour, like the natives of the country, the females are usually no less red and white than our porcelain beauties as exhibited in England. But it is evident from the expressions of most of the Indians themselves, from the style of their amatory poetry, and other circumstances, that they consider fairness as a part of beauty, and a proof of noble blood. They do not like to be called black, and though the Abyssinians, who are sometimes met with in the country, are very little darker than they themselves are, their jest-books are full of taunts on the charcoal complexion of the. "Hubshee." Much of this has probably arisen from their having been so long subjected to the Moguls, and

other conquerors originally from more northern climates, and who continued to keep up the comparative fairness of their stock by frequent importation of northern beauties. India too has been always, and long before the Europeans came hither, a favourite theatre for adventurers from Persia, Greece, Tartary, Turkey, and Arabia, all white men, and all in their turn possessing themselves of wealth and power. These circumstances must have greatly contributed to make a fair complexion fashionable. It is remarkable, however, to observe how surely all these classes of men in a few generations, even without any intermarriage with the Hindoos, assume the deep olive tint, little less dark than a negro, which seems natural to the climate. The Portuguese natives form unions among themselves alone, or if they can, with Europeans. Yet the Portuguese have, during a three hundred years' residence in India, become as black as Caffres. Surely this goes far to disprove the assertion, which is sometimes made, that climate alone is insufficient to account for the difference between the negro and the European. It is true, that in the negro are other peculiarities which the Indian has not, and to which the Portuguese colonist shows no symptom of approximation, and which undoubtedly do not appear to follow so naturally from the climate, as that swarthiness of complexion which is the sole distinction between the Hindoo and the European. But if heat produces one change, other peculiarities of climate may produce other and additional changes, and when such peculiarities have three or four thousand years to operate in, it is not easy to fix any limits to their power. I am inclined, after all, to suspect that our European vanity leads us astray in supposing that our own is the primitive complexion, which I should rather suppose was that of the Indian, halfway between the two extremes, and perhaps the most agreeable to the eye and instinct of the majority of the human race. A colder climate, and a constant use of clothes, may have blanched the skin as effectually as a

burning sun and nakedness may have tanned it, and I am encouraged in this hypothesis by observing that of animals the natural colours are generally dusky and uniform, while whiteness and a variety of tint almost invariably follow domestication, shelter from the elements, and a mixed and unnatural diet. Thus while hardship, additional exposure, a greater degree of heat, and other circumstances with which we are unacquainted, may have deteriorated the Hindoo into a negro, opposite causes may have changed him into the progressively lighter tints of the Chinese, the Persian, the Turk, the Russian, and the Englishman.

My wife and little girl having returned from their cruise to the Sandheads much benefited by the change of air, we went on the 7th of January, 1824, to Titty-ghur, a convenient and comfortable house, in a beautiful situ- | ation, most kindly lent to us for a couple of months by Dr. Wallich. It is on the banks of the river, about two miles from Barrackpoor, and in the middle of the Company's experimental botanic garden. The weather is now very delightful, and we are comparatively free from the dense fogs which at this season beset Calcutta and Chowringhee. I

On the 10th of January there was a display of fire-works at Serampoor, in honour of the patron saint at the Roman Catholic chapel, which we saw to great advantage from our bholiah, stationed opposite to it on the river. They were, we were told, procured from China by one of the Roman Catholic Portuguese merchants. I thought them very good, and the forms of most of them were new to me. One was a striking imitation of the foliage of a tuft of bamboos, being, in fact, really a cluster of long and slender bamboos, with fire-works affixed to them, which very beautifully gave the effect of the graceful curve of that elegant plant, and even the form of its leaves. There was also another, a sort of Roman candle, which sent up flames, in shape and action, as well as the noise they emitted, not unlike large pigeons, and therefore called Chinese doves.

A

great crowd of boats and people were on the river to see these fire-works, which are a very popular exhibition with the lower orders.

Returning one day from Calcutta, I passed by two funeral piles, the one preparing for a single person, the other nearly consumed, on which a suttee had just taken place. For this latter purpose a stage had been constructed of bamboos about eighteen inches or two feet above the ground, on which the dead body had been laid, and under which, as my native servants told me, the unhappy widow had been stretched out, surrounded with combustibles. Only a heap of glowing embers was now seen here, besides two long bamboos, which seemed intended to keep down any struggles which nature might force from her. On the stage was what seemed a large bundle of coarse cotton cloth. smoking, and partially blackened, emitting a very offensive smell. This my servants said was the husband's body. The woman they expressly affirmed had been laid below it, and ghee poured over her to hasten her end, and they also said the bamboos had been laid across her. I notice these particulars, because they differ from the account of a similar and recent ceremony, given by the Baptist Missionaries, in which it is said that the widow is laid by the side of her husband, on the platform, with her arm embracing him, and her face turned to him. Here I asked repeatedly, and received a different account. Yet the missionaries have had every possible opportunity of learning, if not of actually witnessing, all the particulars of the ceremony which they describe. Perhaps these particulars vary in different instances. At all events it is a proof how hard it is to gain, in this country, accurate information as to facts which seem most obvious to the senses. I felt very sick at heart, and regretted I had not been half an hour sooner, though probably my attempts at persuasion would have had no chance of success. I would at least have tried to reconcile her to life. There were perhaps twenty or thirty people present, with about the same degree of interest, though certainly not